When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm sure this has been covered before, but I'm having NO luck with the search tool.
Truck has been sitting for a few years and i can't get headlights or tail lights to work. Side running lights do come on. I've read that there is no fuse for these. Correct? Any ideas or links to this topic? Thank You
When a vehicle sits for a good while if you live anywhere in a humid climate you'll loose the ground for many things on the truck including the lights. Also what happens is the mice and ground squirrels in your community send out a bulletin declaring "Free Rent". They chew through electrical wiring if they're hungry enough. This is a 460 motor I bought that was newly built 35 years ago. The motor was completely duct taped shut every hole and covered. fortunately the other three motors were not breached by the little fkers.
These are your grounds on the truck per the Ford electrical diagrams found here. There's a bit of a learning curve to navigate those electrical diagrams, if you need a hand or further explination just speak up.
As I recall, there is a 12 amp circuit breaker built into the headlight switch that protects headlight / taillight circuitry. . If it's not resetting so lights come on, time for a new switch. A headlight relay kit will ease the load.
As I recall, there is a 12 amp circuit breaker built into the headlight switch that protects headlight / taillight circuitry. . If it's not resetting so lights come on, time for a new switch. A headlight relay kit will ease the load.
Yup, there's a little reset on top of the switch behind the dash. I certainly would check that first the bulb can be replaced with the dash in place but pulling the dash cluster and replacing all the bulbs in the dash cluster would be the way to go if you're going to take out a few inches.
This will give you some reading material thanks brother FTE member Rich. Rich has put it all at your fingertips if you have any questions or progress post back.
Yup, there's a little reset on top of the switch behind the dash.
Oh really, that is new news to me. I always understood that, that button is what you depress to get the **** AND shaft out (as a assembly) of the switch....so you can then take the dash bezel off. At least that is how it has always worked for me. I do not just yank on the headlight **** till it comes off. Lol
And this is what you make sure is making contact to get your dash lights to dim or brighten, when you rotate the ****. And turn on the dome light, when the doors are closed. I see the spring loaded button again.
Fuse layout.
(3) Integral with headlamp switch
X1000 check and clean grounds. Add a couple more, never hurts. Check all fuses, and check fuse contacts (on both sides). Take each fuse out and clean the contacts in the fuse box. (Both sides). Have the battery disconnected. Owners manual free download. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9Y...J_jpVdqy9XQf6A
Oh really, that is new news to me. I always understood that, that button is what you depress to get the **** AND shaft out (as a assembly) of the switch....so you can then take the dash bezel off. At least that is how it has always worked for me. I do not just yank on the headlight **** till it comes off. Lol
I'll admit you got me there< Rich, can't get nothing past you. In my defense I've been sleep deprived. "Scouts Out !"
We balance out just fine. In my defense (I worked a 10 hr shift today, building a portable saw mill) and therefore I failed to mention. With a new headlight switch you push the button down once and pull the **** and shaft out easy enough.
On a 40 plus year old switch that has been in the truck since (Christ was a Corporal), you have to push the button (down) and pull/push/pull/push/pull on the **** at least 4 to 12 times, some times more some times less.
All the while pushing the dang button and trying to get the internal "latch" to release the shaft. Then you get mad and grip rip the **** off the shaft. And then remove the dash bezel. And make sure you disconnect the battery, otherwise when the shaft comes out, you turn on your headlights.
Depending on the switch installation guy that day, I have see headlight switches with the button on the top and on the bottom. Most are on the top.
Maybe before going thru changing out the head light switch that you will most likely need to change to get the dash lights to work.
Using a test light turn on the head lights and pull the plug off the high / low floor switch.
Light hooked to a good ground test each of the 3 wires for power. 1 should have power and the other 2 nothing.
If you have power on 1 wire the switch is good. With a jumper go from the 1 with power to either of the no power wires.
Now see if you have head lights. Do the same to the other no power wire and check for head lights.
If you have head lights you have a bad floor switch.
No head light check for power out at the head light plugs.
Could have bad bulbs or as said something liked eating wires.
More than once a bad floor switch has tripped up someone.
Dave ----
Replace the hi beam switch too, the headlight wires hit that before the master switch. Those get real corroded, dirty and sticky since they're on the floor. I think its less than 10 bucks.
Maybe before going thru changing out the head light switch that you will most likely need to change to get the dash lights to work.
Using a test light turn on the head lights and pull the plug off the high / low floor switch.
Light hooked to a good ground test each of the 3 wires for power. 1 should have power and the other 2 nothing.
If you have power on 1 wire the switch is good. With a jumper go from the 1 with power to either of the no power wires.
Now see if you have head lights. Do the same to the other no power wire and check for head lights.
If you have head lights you have a bad floor switch.
No head light check for power out at the head light plugs.
Could have bad bulbs or as said something liked eating wires.
More than once a bad floor switch has tripped up someone.
Dave ----
Sorry you beat me too it didn't see that last part.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.