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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck

Ford truck information and then some....

 
  #136  
Old 01-10-2016, 09:16 AM
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Just some more helpful pics.
 
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  #137  
Old 01-26-2016, 10:48 PM
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Some more stuff.
 
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  #138  
Old 02-18-2016, 04:55 PM
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"How to get rust of chrome/stainless steel and steel"
This trick was taught to me when i was a younger tike and ised to ride bikes with tons of chrome and steel on them. This absolutely works but you need to follow the steps described. have pictures to show progg. No magic here..lol
You will need to purchase 3 things. (Brillo heavy duty scour pads with the red soap in them. Do NOT get the normal steel wool ones. You will need to get your favorite degreaser. I use purple power, seems to work the best in this scenario. You will need to get eagle one never dull. It is a wadding of fine lamb hair/sorcerers arm pit hair and other magical stuff..lol


1. wash the wheel/metal/etc.. like normal
2. apply lots of purple power and let sit for 5 minutes, then spray again (you are going to have to use a lot of cleaner so dont be stingy)
3. take a scour pad and dip in a bucket of soapy water (dawn, car wash, etc..) and begin to scrub the crap out of everything.
IMPORTANT TIP--never let the surface your cleaning get dry, constantly spray with water and dip scrubber in water (if you dont do this it will leave micro scratches on everything)
4. continue to scrub/dip/rotate scrubber. Use scrubber till it almost becomes steel wool and discard and then get another(do not over user it)
5. spray with purple power again and use wash rag to clean any residue and look for missed spots
clean entire area when complete with was rag
6. DRY (very important before next step)
7. Open can of never dull and tear you a little piece of fabric off and fold it into a small little round or square piece.
8. Start rubbing a spot on metal, you will notice it starts to turn black(that black is about 20 years of mildew, oxidation, water spots, water rings, rust and every other thing on the planet)
9. continue to use the never dull, turning it and refolding it when it becomes to black and then tear off another piece. This is time consuming work and labor intensive but you will not believe the results as you will see from my pictures


Although this will get almost any metal looking new(especially chrome), its not a miracle process. If you have divots or pitting in your metal, they will still be there but they will be a lot less noticeable and not discolored.


Materials: 2 bottles of purple power, 1 can of never dull and 1 box of brillo red scour pads
Cost: purple power($5), Nevere dull ($10), red brillo pads ($4) =$20
Time: Very consuming 30-45 minutes per wheel


The more you do this, the better the metal will look. Do this twice a year and that metal will look brand new forever and the after the fist time, its goes much quicker and easier
here is link to other thread with pictures..
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ictures-2.html
.html
 
  #139  
Old 02-23-2016, 07:59 AM
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Some more.
 
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  #140  
Old 02-23-2016, 12:23 PM
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Read this the other day. to the original author. Sorry repeat of post #135.

You can easily test the starter solenoid and the switch.

First, the switch. You'll need a partner and a multimeter.
-There is a 'hot' (12V +ve) wire that is off (0V) when the key is off and on (12V) when you have the key in the start position. You just need to check if you are indeed consistently getting 12V when the key is in start. So, multimeter with one lead on ground and one lead on the wire from the key. This should be a thin (16GA?) wire coming into the 3rd post on the solenoid. Side note: Essentially a solenoid is simply a relay that uses a low current 'switch' voltage to create an electromagnet that closes a switch inside and completes the high current circuit, making the starter spin. Once you confirm that there is indeed 12V coming from the key when it's in the 'start' position, we've ruled out that the key switch is bad.

Next, the solenoid. Like I said, the solenoid is just a switch that uses low current to complete a high-current circuit (the starter). It can go bad without warning, and it's entirely possible and likely that it's bad. So, to test the solenoid (after you've confirmed you're getting power from the switch to the 3rd terminal on the solenoid) you simply take a jumper cable and clamp one end onto one side of the solenoid (12V in from battery) and touch the other end of the cable to the other post of the solenoid (12V out to starter). The engine should immediately turn over (expect a few sparks, no big deal). MAKE SURE IT IS IN NUTRAL IF IT IS A STANDARD TRANSMISSION.

If the key checks out good, and the solenoid test makes the engine spin over, then the solenoid is bad.

If the key checks out bad, you can verify solenoid operation by taking a small bit of wire and going from the +ve terminal of the battery and touching it to the 3rd terminal on the solenoid (where the key goes in) and it should energize the solenoid and turn over the engine.
 
  #141  
Old 03-03-2016, 09:08 PM
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And here is another great troubleshooting run down: Thanks to Randido

Original Problem: 79 F250 351M Running fine one day and would not start on the next day. The engine would crank but would not catch or run.

1) Checked spark by removing spark plug, cranking and checking for spark GOOD

2) Removed and cleaned fuel filter and checked carburator. Fuel pump pumping fuel into the filter and both jets pumping OK. Not a fuel issue. Yes, it was fresh fuel as well.

3) Has new distributor cap, rotor and spark plug wires. Removed the cap anyway to check for rotor revolution. GOOD. No loose connections. Checked magnetic pickup by using voltmeter. Attached meter leads to orange and purple wires at the Ignition Control Module, set meter to AC volts and got 1 VAC when I cranked the engine. Magnetic pickup good. Distributor OK.

4) Checked ignition coil windings with an ohmeter. Got normal resistance on the primary and secondary windings. Coil seems OK.

5) Suspected Ignition Control Module at this point. Replaced with a new one. Still have the same problem.

6)My thinking is that it could be weak ignition coil or a wiring issue at this point. Cheaper to check wires. Checked wires from the secondary of the ignition coil (white and red wires) to the Ignition Control Module. White wire had .4 ohms. GOOD Red wire had 13.7 ohms BAD. Signal was getting attenuated between the secondary of the ignition coil to the Ignition Control Module. I replaced the wire with a new 12 gauge wire and my baby fired right up.
 
  #142  
Old 03-10-2016, 02:12 PM
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Some more bits of info.
 
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  #143  
Old 03-21-2016, 03:47 PM
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This is all very helpful knowledge when working on my '77 F-150 custom. Thanks everyone for posting.
 
  #144  
Old 03-24-2016, 08:33 PM
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A few more new ones.
 
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  #145  
Old 03-27-2016, 11:58 PM
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77 & 79 f250 Question about bullet #6

Originally Posted by 77&79F250 View Post
And here is another great troubleshooting run down: Thanks to Randido

Original Problem: 79 F250 351M Running fine one day and would not start on the next day. The engine would crank but would not catch or run.

1) Checked spark by removing spark plug, cranking and checking for spark GOOD

2) Removed and cleaned fuel filter and checked carburator. Fuel pump pumping fuel into the filter and both jets pumping OK. Not a fuel issue. Yes, it was fresh fuel as well.

3) Has new distributor cap, rotor and spark plug wires. Removed the cap anyway to check for rotor revolution. GOOD. No loose connections. Checked magnetic pickup by using voltmeter. Attached meter leads to orange and purple wires at the Ignition Control Module, set meter to AC volts and got 1 VAC when I cranked the engine. Magnetic pickup good. Distributor OK.

4) Checked ignition coil windings with an ohmeter. Got normal resistance on the primary and secondary windings. Coil seems OK.

5) Suspected Ignition Control Module at this point. Replaced with a new one. Still have the same problem.

6)My thinking is that it could be weak ignition coil or a wiring issue at this point. Cheaper to check wires. Checked wires from the secondary of the ignition coil (white and red wires) to the Ignition Control Module. White wire had .4 ohms. GOOD Red wire had 13.7 ohms BAD. Signal was getting attenuated between the secondary of the ignition coil to the Ignition Control Module. I replaced the wire with a new 12 gauge wire and my baby fired right up.
////////////////////////////////////////Did you test the red and white wires from the ignition module under the hood to the key switch under the dash? My truck has not run by itself for the few days. The only way I can get to work, I put in neutral, turn key to start, while cranking shift to drive and drive away while holding key in start position. I can drive 45mph and shift gears (automatic) while holding key in start position. If I let go of the key, or my hand gets a cramp, the truck stops driving and I coast. Shift back to neutral, turn key to start and drive again. I NEED to get this fixed.
 
  #146  
Old 03-28-2016, 07:54 AM
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Welcome B&B 78/9 to FTE. This thread is really just a information storage thread and not a "I have a problem" thread. You are new, so its all good. You really should post you problem in your very own thread, that way it will get more overall forum exposure and help. Sounds like you need a new ignition switch to me..

Also have you used the advanced search option? Do you see the blue line with User CP, Albums, FAQ? See the SEARCH on that line? It has a drop down search menu arrow, go to the "Advanced Search" option, top left side (search block) type in there what you are looking for and then go to the lower right column and highlight 73-79 forum. Select it and then you will have a detailed search just in the 73-79 forums.
 
  #147  
Old 03-28-2016, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250 View Post
Welcome B&B 78/9 to FTE. This thread is really just a information storage thread and not a "I have a problem" thread. You are new, so its all good. You really should post you problem in your very own thread, that way it will get more overall forum exposure and help. Sounds like you need a new ignition switch to me..

Also have you used the advanced search option? Do you see the blue line with User CP, Albums, FAQ? See the SEARCH on that line? It has a drop down search menu arrow, go to the "Advanced Search" option, top left side (search block) type in there what you are looking for and then go to the lower right column and highlight 73-79 forum. Select it and then you will have a detailed search just in the 73-79 forums.
The search option is how I found this article. After looking through many pages.
 
  #148  
Old 03-28-2016, 06:51 PM
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I really just breezed through this info on my phone. I'll sit down on my computer go through it in more detail. I stumbled across this looking for info and such about the rag joint and intermediate shaft.
 
  #149  
Old 03-28-2016, 11:06 PM
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I try to keep this thread for information only and not really questions. You can start your own thread for that.

Here is the guy that original posted those steps, might do better for him to explain it.

Randido Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Profile: Randido

Here is the original thread. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...em-solved.html
 
  #150  
Old 06-10-2016, 03:18 PM
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Thank you SO much for this information. I recently bought a '79 F-150 and was looking for thermostat information on the 351M and you literally answered what I looked for a long time to start to figure out!
 

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