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Interesting, mine does it with the old tensioner and the new Motorcraft unit. BUT I have a Saginaw on mine now (and 3G), is that same screen shot applicable to that PS pump?
Interesting, mine does it with the old tensioner and the new Motorcraft unit. BUT I have a Saginaw on mine now (and 3G), is that same screen shot applicable to that PS pump?
yes but different dimensions on the shaft and pulley so it may not be as directly appplicable
Hey guys, sorry for such a late reply but I think I fixed the problem. I inspected all the bolts in the bracketing that holds that entire mess to the block, and I noticed that with all of them loose, I could pull the entire assembly toward the radiator about one quarter inch. So, I put a washer in between the bracket and the block on the upper left side and then tightened all the other bolts, reinstalled the belt, fired it up and like magic, it all worked perfectly. Ill attach a picture of where I put the washer. I think the bottom bolts came loose on their own (I've had the truck for 25 years) and then the top slowly migrated back toward the firewall causing this problem. Its possible there was originally a spacer where I put the washer but who knows.
Hey guys, sorry for such a late reply but I think I fixed the problem. I inspected all the bolts in the bracketing that holds that entire mess to the block, and I noticed that with all of them loose, I could pull the entire assembly toward the radiator about one quarter inch. So, I put a washer in between the bracket and the block on the upper left side and then tightened all the other bolts, reinstalled the belt, fired it up and like magic, it all worked perfectly. Ill attach a picture of where I put the washer. I think the bottom bolts came loose on their own (I've had the truck for 25 years) and then the top slowly migrated back toward the firewall causing this problem. Its possible there was originally a spacer where I put the washer but who knows.
im really sorry you did that... if you added a spacer to this , and otherwise matches this, thats not good. the bracket is aluminum right? cast aluminum isnt exactly that good at bending like steel.
^ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT - FEAD BELT "CHIRP"/"SQUEAL" NOISE AND BELT EDGE WEAR OR LOSS - VEHICLES WITH 4.9L ENGINE
^ENGINE - 4.9L - FEAD BELT "CHIRP"/"SQUEAL" NOISE AND BELT EDGE WEAR OR LOSS
^NOISE - "CHIRP"/"SQUEAL" SOUND FROM FEAD BELT - VEHICLES WITH 4.9L ENGINE
LIGHT TRUCK: 1987-94 ECONOLINE, F-150-350 SERIES
This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to provide specific bolt number references in Figures 3 and 4.
ISSUE: Front-end accessory drive belt (FEAD) belt noise may be heard and excessive belt edge wear or loss may occur.
^The "chirp" noise may occur at constant engine speeds and all engine loads. It is caused by belt/pulley misalignment.
^The belt "squeal" noise is intermittent and is heard during engine speed variations, usually at engine start up. The noise is caused by belt slippage.
^Belt edge wear and/or belt loss is caused by belt mistracking across the automatic belt tensioner. If the automatic belt tensioner is out of parallel, the belt can be "driven" to either flange of the pulley, causing belt edge wear and in some cases, the loss of the belt.
ACTION: Use the following service procedure to correct these conditions.
BELT CHIRP
1.Start the engine and while idling, wet the ribbed side of belt by spraying water on the belt where it enters the A/C compressor pulley.
2.Listen for belt "chirp" as the belt dries at the entrance point of each grooved pulley to identify the noisy pulley.
3.If the "chirp" is at the power steering pulley entry, check for belt mistracking on the tensioner pulley, otherwise go to Step 13.
4.Check press of the power steering pulley. The pulley hub should be flush with the end of the pump shaft. 5.If the pulley is flush, start engine and while idling, visually compare the size of the gaps between the belt and front and rear flange of the tensioner pulley. If the larger gap is twice as wide as the smaller gap, Figure 2, proceed with Step 6, otherwise, go to Step 13.
6.Mark the accessory drive belt with an arrow to denote rotation of belt. Remove belt.
7.Loosen all fasteners attaching A/C bracket to cylinder block and cylinder head. See Figures 3 and 4.
8.Tighten nuts # 3 (and, on 1987-93 model only, bolts # 4) on side of cylinder block to 62 N-m (46 lb.ft).
9.Tighten bolt # 2 on side of cylinder head to 47 N-m (35 lb.ft).
10.Tighten bolt # 1 on front of cylinder head to 47 N-m (35 lb.ft).
11.Install the accessory drive belt. Be sure belt is installed with arrow mark denoting original rotation of belt.
12.Start engine and check for belt "chirp" noise.
13.Remove the accessory drive belt and replace it with a new service replacement belt. See Figure 1 for correct belt usage.
BELT SQUEAL - F-SERIES
1.Remove the accessory drive belt automatic tensioner assembly. Refer to the appropriate Truck service Manual, Section 03-05, for the removal procedure.
2.Replace it with automatic tensioner assembly (E7TZ-6B209-G). Refer to the appropriate Truck service Manual, Section 03-05, for the installation procedure.
3.Replace the accessory drive belt.
BELT SQUEAL - ECONOLINE (A/C EQUIPPED MODELS ONLY)
1.Remove and discard the accessory drive belt. 2.Remove 90 mm diameter pulley from automatic tensioner assembly. Discard bolt, pulley and bearing dust shield. Refer to Figure 5.
3.Install new 76 mm pulley, bearing, dust shield and bolt assembly (E7UZ-8678-A) to automatic tensioner assembly. See Figure 5.
1.Remove and replace accessory drive belt with new service replacement belt. See Figure 1 for correct parts usage.
2.Start engine and while idling, observe location of belt on automatic tensioner pulley. If belt tracks near the pulley flange, Figure 2, replace with automatic tensioner (E7TZ-6B209-G).
3.Start engine and observe belt movement. If belt moves too far rearward on tensioner pulley, proceed as follows:
a.With belt installed, loosen all A/C bracket fasteners. Belt tension will pull A/C bracket inboard towards the engine. (Refer to Figures 3 and 4 for bolt and nut position identification.)
b.Tighten bolt # 1 on front of cylinder head to 47 N-m (35 lb.ft).
c.Tighten bolt # 2 on side of cylinder head to 47 N-m (35 lb.ft).
d.Tighten nuts # 3 (and for 1993 and prior model years, bolts # 4) on side of cylinder block to 62 N-m (46 lb.ft).
4.Start engine and observe belt movement. If belt moves too far forward on tensioner pulley, proceed as follows:
a.Remove accessory drive belt and loosen all A/C bracket fasteners.
b.Pull A/C bracket toward driver's side of vehicle.
c.Tighten bolt # 1 on front of cylinder head to 47 N-m (35 lb.ft).
d.Tighten bolt # 2 on side of cylinder head to 47 N-m (35 lb.ft).
e.Tighten nuts # 3 (and for 1993 and prior model years, bolts # 4) on side of cylinder block to 62 N-m (46 lb.ft).
It didn't bend at all. The top rear of the bracket which was not in the picture has a horizontal slot in it. When all the bolts are threaded but only finger tight, you you can grab the top of the assembly and pivot it back and forth...no bending. I really think there was supposed to be a spacer there originally. Additionally, mine doesn't have an AC pump underneath it. Lastly, I didn't pay attention to the material type, but its big and heavy.
It didn't bend at all. The top rear of the bracket which was not in the picture has a horizontal slot in it. When all the bolts are threaded but only finger tight, you you can grab the top of the assembly and pivot it back and forth...no bending. I really think there was supposed to be a spacer there originally. Additionally, mine doesn't have an AC pump underneath it. Lastly, I didn't pay attention to the material type, but its big and heavy.
OH. YOu have a Non-AC truck from factory? does it have the steel bracket thats a triangle covering where it would go?
Did someone by chance sand down your bracket where you say it has clearance? it almost looks too thin like someone removed material to try and make it fit something or to adjust the belt... wouldnt be surprised.
Did someone by chance sand down your bracket where you say it has clearance? it almost looks too thin like someone removed material to try and make it fit something or to adjust the belt... wouldnt be surprised.
I have no way to answer that lol. Im not the original owner but I'm 40 years old and have had the truck since I was in high school. Before I bought it I suppose any number of things could have been done. Yes, the truck has no AC from the factory and that bracket is one big piece of steel. Ill attach some pictures below. Like I said, when all the bolts are finger tight you can pivot the entire monstrosity back and forth by a little more than 1\4 inch. If that's not right, maybe someone sanded the bracket or drilled out the holes, who knows, but that's the way it is now. Putting the washer in there lined it up perfectly and won't allow the bracket to go back toward the firewall which was causing my problem. What I don't understand is the fact the truck ran fine all summer without any problems. I parked it for a month when I went out of town. When I got back and started it up the belt tried to climb over and off the front of the pulley lol. I was definitely confused by that. It was terribly cold when I was gone and when I went out yesterday to work on it I noticed the bottom bolts on that bracket were somewhat loose. I think that bracket moved backwards somehow during the cold snap and created this mess, but who knows. It works perfectly now.
Maybe post a pic from vertical to see alignment. Is it possible the main bracket is not fully seated causing the whole assy to be out of angle? Could have been out whole time and belt just finally gave up. TBH I throw parts at problems until it gets fixed but if belt seems good on upstream and downstream pullies may be a good exercise to remove pump and bracket and ensure its seating correctly, no trash or crud in-between the faces.
I love throwing parts at problems too! Haha. Loosening the entire bracket ended up being all I needed to do. That's how I learned the entire thing was able to pivot back and forth. Pitting a washer on the front ear of the bracket and tightening it all down corrected the entire thing.
I love throwing parts at problems too! Haha. Loosening the entire bracket ended up being all I needed to do. That's how I learned the entire thing was able to pivot back and forth. Pitting a washer on the front ear of the bracket and tightening it all down corrected the entire thing.
it seems its from years of rocking back and forth, the TSB i posted would have fixed your issue in 1994 when it came out, but thats okay, because a simple shim is easy enough to do too. glad you got it. because the bolts had years of side loads, periodically check for tightness and maybe add blue threadlocker to them at some point
it seems its from years of rocking back and forth, the TSB i posted would have fixed your issue in 1994 when it came out, but thats okay, because a simple shim is easy enough to do too. glad you got it. because the bolts had years of side loads, periodically check for tightness and maybe add blue threadlocker to them at some point
That truck is actually an 87, which gives it several more years to rock back and forth and wallow those holes out. - That's good thinking and I thank you for pointing that out, that perfectly explains how and why this has happened. That bracket is steel, but I know from working on my other 87 that the steel is soft and the bolts are hard, so 25 years of use has elongated the holes, thus allowing it to move in ways it shouldnt. Well done Aurora girl We should talk more often
That truck is actually an 87, which gives it several more years to rock back and forth and wallow those holes out. - That's good thinking and I thank you for pointing that out, that perfectly explains how and why this has happened. That bracket is steel, but I know from working on my other 87 that the steel is soft and the bolts are hard, so 25 years of use has elongated the holes, thus allowing it to move in ways it shouldnt. Well done Aurora girl We should talk more often
It is steel? I thought it was aluminum but youre right, the 94+ are aluminum or maybe it was 93 +., And I meant that in 1994 when ford made that TSB is when they discovered the issue and documented it lol. But yeah hard fastener vs soft metal + time = that
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We should talk more often 
