Regulator wire
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 127
Likes: 13
I see you have a Mallory Unilite distributor, I worked at Super Shops back in the day and we sold Mallory products. The Unilite module is a good design and very accurate, but if you have a bad ground you will kill the module and it will make you a pedestrian. Also don't try to disconnect the battery while the engine is running because that will also kill the module. I don't know of a way for you to check to see if the module is bad, at Super Shops we had a ignition system on the counter and we could connect the customers distributor or coil and determine what needed replacing. Unfortunately I have replaced a lot of these Unilite modules for customers.
Brian
Brian
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,388
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
I can’t speak highly enough of switching the distributor system over to Pertronix. This gets rid of everything ignition related other than the coil and the distributor. It simply requires on key on hot wire. Simple. Reliable. And it looks good.
This is comparable to switching over to the 3g one wire alternator modification. A must do as far as I’m concerned.
This is comparable to switching over to the 3g one wire alternator modification. A must do as far as I’m concerned.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,217
Likes: 506
From: Pa.
Do you have any thoughts on the red wire from the regulator to the fuse box. is that supposed to be connected to hot?
The "I" on your regulator plug is the "Red/Grn" wire when "Idiot lights" are used in your instrument cluster.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,606
Likes: 1,175
From: San Jose, CA
What Redroad said. So let's get it out there first, whether your truck has an ammeter in the cluster, or a battery light?
I see you have a new regulator connector. It's got all the wrong colors on it, but that's typical of the import aftermarket over the last few decades. But the critical thing is that, if you have a light, the regulator connector has the four wires as yours does. If it's got an ammeter, it only uses three.
And no, there is never (from the factory) a wire running from the regulator to the fuse panel. In either scenario...
And no, unless it's been hacked together, your regulator being mis-wired or not, won't have any effect on the coil sparking.
Have you verified that the distributor rotor is turning when the engine is cranking? You can test this easily with the cap off and either turning the engine by hand or by the key.
And the NSS will ONLY effect the starter cranking. Nothing at all to do with the ignition not sparking.
But a bad starter relay can effect this, as can a bad radio noise suppressor on the coil's positive wire.
You can eliminate the starter relay as the problem by disconnecting the Brown "I" wire and leaving it disconnected while testing. Same for disconnecting the radio noise suppressor. If it's still there.
Usually those things disappear when a new coil is installed.
Paul
I see you have a new regulator connector. It's got all the wrong colors on it, but that's typical of the import aftermarket over the last few decades. But the critical thing is that, if you have a light, the regulator connector has the four wires as yours does. If it's got an ammeter, it only uses three.
And no, there is never (from the factory) a wire running from the regulator to the fuse panel. In either scenario...
And no, unless it's been hacked together, your regulator being mis-wired or not, won't have any effect on the coil sparking.
Have you verified that the distributor rotor is turning when the engine is cranking? You can test this easily with the cap off and either turning the engine by hand or by the key.
And the NSS will ONLY effect the starter cranking. Nothing at all to do with the ignition not sparking.
But a bad starter relay can effect this, as can a bad radio noise suppressor on the coil's positive wire.
You can eliminate the starter relay as the problem by disconnecting the Brown "I" wire and leaving it disconnected while testing. Same for disconnecting the radio noise suppressor. If it's still there.
Usually those things disappear when a new coil is installed.
Paul
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