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I'm guessing you had the nylon tooth cam gear since I've never seen a chain on a metal cam gear get loose enough to jump a tooth. Since all FE's use basically the same timing sets the marks should have lined up. But if the timing set wasn't made correctly, being off by 1 degree or less won't affect anything enough to notice.
Did you check the harmonic balancer to make sure it hasn't slipped. Also, you need to pull the distributor and check the roll pin in the gear it is possible it could have sheared. Those gears are pressed on then drilled for the pin. That distributor gear is driving the oil pump, so it is under a lot of load.
Also, if you had the nylon cam gear and it was missing teeth you need to pull the pan and get that stuff out before it ends up in the oil pump.
If the pin is worn, would that cause the timing to jump?
If the pin is worn, would that cause the timing to jump?
No, those pins don't wear. They are there to augment the press fit and keep the gear at the correct position on the shaft. If the press wasn't sufficient and the pin had the entire load of driving the oil pump it would shear in short order.
I've posted this before mainly because of so many cheapo chineseium distributors on the market. I've ran across 3 distributors in the last few years that had the gear on at the wrong location. All of those had the gear on wrong and were holding the gear off the pad in the engine.
The dimensions in figure 1 are for Windsor, 335's and 385 series engines the FE dimensions are 3.071 to 3.078.
Are you unhooking the vacuum advance when you check the timing? Is it hooked to the carb or the manifold? Do you have a Mityvac you can hook to the advance canister to verify it's working correctly?
Sorry, I typed the wrong number. It is a 30-2807 like the one you listed in a previous reply.
After doing some research and looking at the rotor and where it sits on the distributor and comparing that from the new to old one the rotor seats differently on the new distributor compared to the old one (it's a much tighter fit so it takes a lot of pressure to put on but I did verify it is the correct rotor). So the reason it messed up the cap and rotor is that it was not pushed down all the way when I tried to start it.
I was also able to verify the gear is hitting the right place and it has plenty of oil pressure when it runs and oil is circulating in the engine. The chip in one of the teeth of the gear on the end of the distributor must have been from before putting it in the engine since both the cam gear and distributor gear are perfectly fine now. I took the distributor out after running it and verified that both gears were fine.
Now the engine seems to run well and I have driven it for a couple of days with no jump in the timing. The new distributor seems to have fixed the issue. Still not 100% sure what the issue was with the old one but I have to assume it had something to do with the mechanical advance since I eliminated almost every other possibility.
I appreciate all the info and help from everyone who chimed in with their ideas
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