Yes next weekend, I am glad you said something as it had already slipped from my mind! Last time we got him a gift I think was his 65th. We got him a hat because he collects hats and loves to wear a Corvette hat, but had said he could never find a blue one to match his car. Sherry went to a web browser and typed "teal corvette hat" and found one within 30 seconds.

I know he likes wine, but he's kind of a connoisseur, so I'm sure the $9 stuff I buy at Food Lion is below his usual taste! lol

So you were initially looking for a pre-bent line to fit your car, but ultimately had to settle for buying a roll and just building it out? Probably won't be too bad, if you get in a bind and can't find clips or tubing clamps shoot me a text, as I have a lot of that kind of stuff in a box.

Speaking of how difficult it was to do the PCV job, Michael said he watched a youtube of it with the same engine in a Dodge minivan and it looked super easy. Yeah cause the engine is sideways and it's mounted on the valve cover closest to the front! One of the screws he actually found easier to reach by crawling underneath and resting his elbow on the exhaust pipe. By that time it already cooled thank goodness!

You gotta check around today for sure; I was thinking of heading up to Lowes to buy some 2x4's for my planter legs, but good thing I checked first because they are closed today for Easter Sunday.

 

I see talk on the clubs MSG forum about shows next Saturday but did not want to say anything for 2 reasons.
1 I dont know if it is a surprise party and did not want to blow it if Dave seen I said something.
2 I dont know who all was sent invites.
I will come up with something for a gift, I still have a few days left LOL

No I was not looking for a pre-bent fuel line. Even if I did find one they bend it to fit in a box to ship
They did that for a break line kit in the engine bay not fun trying to unbend from the box shape.
I also did not want to use metal tubing as I will rust again so went ALUM. in 5/16"

Now that I think of it wonder what I did with the drag car fuel line? Most likely trashed it when we moved
V8 cars the line runs down the left side as the fuel pump is on that side of the motor.
On the straight six cars the line runs down the right side.
I removed the small fuel line on the left and ran 3/8" ALUM. down the right side and all the clamp holes where already drilled.

I picked up a different brand pump Sunday and this morning when I was heading out the door for work David was in the garage doing something to his car and asked about the pump. Told him where it was and a few hours later he text the pump was installed but he did not test it.
The ALUM line should be here tomorrow so I want to replace the metal for ALUM before I test this pump.
I also see Rock Auto list a Carter pump with 4 to 9 psi. Other pumps only list min. psi of 6 to 6.5 and 1 of them was the pump I installed that had 18 PSI!
I should have what I need to hold the line to the floor if I cant reuse what I remove.

On lowe's being closed I heard or seen it posted this was the first year they closed so everyone could be with family.
I guess how many people need hardware from a big box store on a holiday?
Dave ----

 

I bought the pre-bent line for my Mustang many years ago. Yes it was bent in the middle, but that was the only spot I had to straighten, and then everything else lined up fairly well. I was impressed. I bought it in stainless. Speaking of which I have about 6-8 feet of stainless 5/16 laying back by the garage, it is so hard to bend compared to the copper/steel mix that is common from JEGS. I remember trying to make the piece between fuel pump and carb and getting frustrated.

 

I have heard the SS brake lines do not seal to good and a lot are sent back and new ones sent to try and get them to seal.
I also hear SS is hard to bend and forget about trying to flare it with out a fancy flaring tool.
The SS may look nice but I dont think it is worth the trouble.

I did think about getting copper / nickle tubing for the fuel line but I having used the ALUM on the drag car and was happy on how easy it was to work with so why I went with it this time. I also wanted to get the regulator and Summit had one cheap so got it too just in case.

If I have to use the regulator I dont know where I am going to mount it yet but wonder if I could use any left over ALUM tubing and flare as needed?
Dave ----

 

I can imagine people having trouble with SS brake lines sealing, they are so hard. I bet my flare tool would probably snap if I put that kind of pressure on it! Compare that to the softer steel ones from the autoparts store, or the even softer copper-metal ones you get from JEGS which are a lot easier to form-fit. But anyone who wants to go SS for fuel line, I suggest doing the same as I did and getting the pre-bent.

Today I tackled "phase 2" of my truck sound system, which was rear speakers. My truck only had front speakers which are in the door, no rear speakers. I was trying to figure the best place to mount them, and I really couldn't come up with a good place because pretty much anywhere on the B pillar would interfere with the seat belts. So I decided to build a speaker box to go behind the middle seat.

I made it out of poster board first, and kept messing with it until I got it shaped to fit just right. Then traced it onto wood and built my box. Painted it black first, and then sprayed a textured black finish over that. Mounted two 6-1/2" Rockford Fosgate speakers and now I am jamming!

 

Box looks nice now I know who to go to when I need a box made for the Javelin
That is way way far away at this time LOL
Dave ----

 

I still got most of my 1/4 inch plywood left, it's the perfect time to start on a box
I even found an old setup in my attic storage with two 12 inch JBL's in it, it was in my son-in-law Jerad's Focus about 10 years ago before he took it out and sold the car. We could make that Javelin thump!

 

LOL first is to get the motor to thump and no gas spitting out the carb, then get the body work and paint done before I think of sounds.
I do have 2 different radios to use, want to keep the old school 2 ***** look.
Think I have a amp and may have 2 sub boxes that I have gotten over the years but that can change once the car is on the road.

I had the needle in the eye today, doing vary good so go back in 12 weeks.
Because of that I cant bend over (stand on my head) or lift / move heavy things so could not work on the Javelin.
I hope to get out in the morning to replace the fuel line front to rear and test the 2nd new fuel pump if it will work this time.
Dave ----

 

Dave, again I have a regulator and even the line from it to the YF. You’d just need to get your supply and return lines from the tank to the regulator sorted out.

 

Hey Kurt that is a nice looking unit. I didn't know any low pressure regulators for carb engines used a return line though.

Dave did you make any progress on fuel line? Sherry said you told her your eyes were itchy, pet dander and pollen doing a number on you.

I was slow on progress this week, being cold and rainy didn't help. But I got out Friday and worked on my new planter boxes:


Also I thought I needed to clarify something; previously when I complained about the old ones rotting away, I wasn't thinking clearly at the time but that wood I used to build them was reclaimed wood from my front ramp which was built in 2006. So that wood was already 10 or 12 years old when I reused to make my planter boxes. Therefore I withdraw any complaint about it rotting because overall the wood was 18 years old.

But I think my new cedar boxes are going to last even longer

 

Kurt
Thanks for the offer but when I bought the alum line to replace the steel fuel line in the Javelin I also bought a Summit regulator.
It is not as nice as the one you have, it is knock off of the Holley regulator and they have worked for me in the past.
John
Kurt was building his fuel system, larger tank with in tank fuel pump, for down the road to run EFI but till that day comes he was still running a carb on his 300 motor. I think the EFI pump calls for a return as I am sure the pump would not last if "dead headed" and why a return.

I cant remember if my 75 Gremlin has a return or not? But I had a 76 Gremlin and my son's Jeep uses a filter with a small nipple for a return.
This nipple has to be at the top or you have fuel issues. Also on some AMC's the return had a restrickter to slow the return flow or all the fuel when back to the tank and not to the carb.
I dont know where the return went on the tank or if it could be copied on to something else?

This return on the AMC's was done to help with vapor lock. Fuel flowing in the supply line would not have time to heat up / boil turning to vapor.
I never had any fuel issues with the Gremlins when I had them on the road.

Planters look good
Speaker boxes and planters oh and chairs too
Who knew
Dave ----

 

The third step in my F150 sound system upgrade was the door speakers. I tackled that yesterday.

Found a very informative video that showed how the door panel comes off, several screws and then pry here, pry there, and before you know it you are done.

However, removing the window crank was not something I could find tips for on youtube, because all the F150 door panel removal videos I saw involved doors with electric windows. This particular generation doesn't have a C-clip like most window cranks, instead you use a small pry thingy to pull the cover up and then move it out of the way; inside you find a T-20 head torx screw holding it in.

2017 F150 window crank removal.


Plain Jane speakers in good condition.

When I put the new one in on one side and tested it, sounded much better then original but still not great. There is nothing behind the speakers, so essentially it's like they are mounted in a large metal box. I know in the past I have used those foam baffles. So a quick run up to the auto parts store and grabbed set, stuck it end - and realized it interferes with the window going up and down. It just stuck way too far inside. But my speakers are not nearly as deep as the baffles so I cut the baffles in half length-way, glued on inside the other, and now I have custom made-to-fit baffles that seal the rear of the speaker and don't interfere with the window going up & down.


New 6x9's in place. Now with 4 good speakers I don't have to use "bass boost" on the head unit to fill out the bottom end, it sounds great already.

 

If you still have the doors open you can also get "peel & stick" and put a strip or 2 on the outside panel as it helps take the drum out of the doors.
The peel & stick is roof flashing and I used it in my truck doors to stop the drum sound and help the speakers sound a little better.
Dont know if I have any left over as it was a long time ago and have not seen it laying around
Think I got it at Lowes hardware
Dave ----

ps how did this get over in the jam - mar thread?
I see it was me