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Aha, yes I've seen some videos of disassembly and the inside of the column gets very gunked up, is there something needed to dissolve and clean off the old grease or is some fresh WD40 sufficient perhaps? I will get an ignition switch ordered too.
wd40 will loosen the old grease. Plus it's a easy way to get things working without taking the column apart, since the wd40 will flow into the column. Steering columns are complicated and a pain to work on, so it's best to avoid taking it apart if you can.
To replace the electrical ignition switch, take the column cover off near the cluster, take the little white plastic PRND21 control tube off the column so you do not break it. Take the two large bolts off under the dash that hold the column to the dash, and then let the column/steering wheel rest on the seat. You can then see the ignition switch mounted on top of the column behind the dash area.
The mysterious part of this problem is that the OP says the steering is fine while the engine is running. The OP says when the engine stalls the wheel locks up. The OP didn't touch the key tumbler and the lock up occurs. Even if the ignition tumbler and the switch are not aligned and are a key notch off how would a stall precipitate the locking up of the wheel?
I would imagine his keyswitch is so messed up, that it is moving on it's own and killing the engine and also moving enough to lock the steering wheel. I have never seen one that bad, but I guess it's possible.
Mine would not return to run after start and when turned to off also did something funky dont remember now
I used CRC electrical cleaner & lube on the switch and all has bee fine, even in 20* F temps.
Dave ----
Not trying to bust your behind, but how do you know fuel is not reaching the engine? Since there seems to be something funky with the ignition switch, my hunch is the engine is quitting due to the ignition shutting off, versus a lack of fuel.
That's a good point, I assumed its a fuel issue because when I'm running off the front take the truck runs fine, but if I switch to the rear tank which is full of gas, after a few minutes it dies and will not start until I switch back to the front tank. I've also encountered this issue with the wheel locking when my carb was out of adjustment and ran too lean, and bogged down to death.
I'll open the column up and get some of that electrical cleaner and lube, and see if that does the trick. Then try replacing switch and cylinder if necessary and go from there. It looks like one of those will do the trick...
does the op have a big keychain, heavy. lots of keys hanging on same keychain the truck key is on. when i was younger n had a smaller truck, i had too much **** hanging from key chain and a couple times my knee would knock it n cut truck off. if op has a weak tumbler and too much weight on key ring, a bump may cause it to rotate?
does the op have a big keychain, heavy. lots of keys hanging on same keychain the truck key is on. when i was younger n had a smaller truck, i had too much **** hanging from key chain and a couple times my knee would knock it n cut truck off. if op has a weak tumbler and too much weight on key ring, a bump may cause it to rotate?
Nope it's just the single key... I dont take it out of the cylinder
wd40 will loosen the old grease. Plus it's a easy way to get things working without taking the column apart, since the wd40 will flow into the column. Steering columns are complicated and a pain to work on, so it's best to avoid taking it apart if you can.
To replace the electrical ignition switch, take the column cover off near the cluster, take the little white plastic PRND21 control tube off the column so you do not break it. Take the two large bolts off under the dash that hold the column to the dash, and then let the column/steering wheel rest on the seat. You can then see the ignition switch mounted on top of the column behind the dash area.
Copy that... I'll try to be as noninvasive as possible.
I would imagine his keyswitch is so messed up, that it is moving on it's own and killing the engine and also moving enough to lock the steering wheel. I have never seen one that bad, but I guess it's possible.
I might not know, but I assume the OP starts the engine with the momentary portion of the ignition switch. Wouldn't that indicate a properly indexed key position. Yeah maybe the mechanism is kludged up
or maybe somebody monkeyed with the steering box adjustment or.....???
I just tried to replicate the locking issue while idling the truck this morning and it didn't lock up after I killed the fuel... but it has done so while driving multiple times.
I was also curious if WD40 was more for clearing gunked up grease rather than plain lubrication. And if so, whats a good lubricator that wont cause problems in the cold? I thought graphite but that won't play nice with WD40.
I assume the OP starts the engine with the momentary portion of the ignition switch. Wouldn't that indicate a properly indexed key position?...
Good question, but the answer depends on the location of the spring that returns the key from START to RUN. Is it in inside the switch, at the far end of the mechanical linkage? Or is this spring up at the key cylinder or elsewhere nearby? I'm not sure.
I was thinking it's part of the switch, but I could be less correct than usual.
I just tried to replicate the locking issue while idling the truck this morning and it didn't lock up after I killed the fuel... but it has done so while driving multiple times.
I was also curious if WD40 was more for clearing gunked up grease rather than plain lubrication. And if so, whats a good lubricator that wont cause problems in the cold? I thought graphite but that won't play nice with WD40.
WD 40 or the like will play nice with old grease. Reconstituting the dry grease that's lost its top end.
It's scary enough having to go to Armstrong mode with a stalled engine much less locking up. Get that figured out before your next drive.
You guys have made me think about going out and giving my switch a quick spray of WD-40, Thanks, It was a little stiff the last time I started it a week ago. It's warmed up to the low 40's F.
Just did that, after spraying, I stuck the key in, turned it to run and noticed the shift lever move downward a little. Never really watched that before. I didn't bother starting the engine. Just cycled the key a couple of times, shift lever each time. The truck was parked straight, the front wheels were not turned. If that's any help for what may be normal.