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What would happen if i don't recurve the distributor ? does it mean engine will not start or bad performance.
by the way, there's no problem with my local emissions requirements.
The engine was tuned to run with the emissions system in play. When it's removed, any part of it, has to be adjusted for. There are many who run with a total emissions delete and do nothing to compensate but they're leaving some performance, torque, and horse power behind doing so IMHO.
So get the transdapt 2199 spacer and eliminate the EGR plate.
Me, I'd want to have the ignition tip top before I tuned a new carb.
You'll have no problem with the translation of the phrase "timing curve". Timing is measured by degree's in a circle hence the words "timing curve". A timing curve is the rate at which timing advances with engine rpm. "Recurving " the distributor is changing the rate at which the timing advances. The ability to make these adjustments were/are built into the distributor and vacuum advance. The process involves removing the distributor an dissembling it to the degree that we can determine the mechanical perimeters for which that distributor was set to run under and from that determination adding or subtracting what is needed to give you your new "timing curve". You'll be "recurved" then
Chances are your distributor needed some tuning before you started the carburetor replacement.
If you don't need the EGR emissions equipment I'd toss it and plug the hole in the intake with the proper screw. then I'd use a square bore adapter and either a phenolic spacer or a new base spacer like you have. the heat insulation is a good idea and more rise is always good.
Then once you get it all running again before you do anything check your curve with a dial back. you could try the timing tape but it's a lame way to avoid buying a dial back, just borrow one or buy a half decent one you won't regret it. unless you have a distributor machine, and nobody does anymore, there's no way to know where you're going until you know where you are. who knows it might be spot on, or it might be a train wreck. check it and see.
That intake manifold would be overkill for the amount of your motor is still stock parts. Your current factory intake with the TransDapt 2199 would be my first choice. It blocks off your "EGR" and gives you all the square bore carburetor choices.
If you have an inclination to spend $ then the "Edlebrock performer intake" is a better choice for your current motor configuration but will only give you minimal improvement over the stock spread bore intake, IMHO.
i tried to mount the new carburetor like that: the engine start but when the automatic choke goes off the engine goes off too.
i will order the transdapt 2199 spacer and put all the things properly.
You need the adapter but even without it the engine shouldn't die.
You mean die or just not run correctly? try advancing the timing a little bit and see if that cures it. when you were hooked to manifold vacuum it gave you quite a bit of advance at idle, now on ported you've lost that. it should run without the adapter.
You need the adapter but even without it the engine shouldn't die.
You mean die or just not run correctly? try advancing the timing a little bit and see if that cures it. when you were hooked to manifold vacuum it gave you quite a bit of advance at idle, now on ported you've lost that. it should run without the adapter.
You won't be able to start it without blocking off the "EGR" on the intake. That is in part what the TransDapt 2199 does, It blocks off the "EGR" port in the OEM intake manifold.
The way that many have done it is like in the picture is to pull the intake and tap it for a plug. The exhaust crossover built into the intake is blocked off and a 3/16" hole is drilled to allow some of the heat to still flow through the cross over where a colder climate it may be needed for cold starts. For many the crossover brings to much heat to the base of the carb.
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