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Now we have nice pics :-). Look where the rubber fuel line connects to the banjo fitting on the carb. See how the hose is bulging there. I think that the hose clamp is to far forward so it's partially collapsing the hose in front of the bulge, maybe? You can solve a potential hazard by re-cutting the fuel line by cutting the bulge out. Now, returning the hose to the fitting, move this time, the hose clamp further on the fitting and then cinch her down.
" Do you see a missing spring ?". No, all is good on the springs. Do you have vaccuum at the "vacuum modulator" on the passenger side of the transmission ?
I think you can make the holley you have work much better by making sure what was done to the EGR when the "spread bore" "?" was addressed. Was the distributor recurved at that time ?
Get one of these, & watch some youtube videos on rebuilding Holley carbs. Or, if you are a book kind of guy, get one of the Holley carb books. Easy carbs to work on & rebuild.
You don't have an EGR spacer it's in your intake. you have a phenolic spacer and that's good.
That carb is far from new but it could probably be salvaged. that's your call . nothing wrong with your intake unless you just want a new one.
Holley's are simple to work on and as long as they haven't been kidderized or extremely worn out you can probably rebuild it. the list number is on the front of the air horn and it will tell you everything you need in order to get the right kit.
If you've ever built a nice model car kit, you can refresh your Holley. Mine is at the least, 1970 and maybe even 1960 vintage. I know your's is newer by the bowl screws and writing on the secondary vacuum diaphragm cover and the look of the choke horn, and a quality genuine Holley kit is well under 1/4 the price of a new carburetor ... and Holley puts very detailed instructions in the kit.
I'd never put a glass bodied fuel filter on anything.
The only piece you could use from that kit is the screw and nut for adjusting the kick down using the hole inside the circle above. You can reuse yours.
The kick down extension is for when putting a 4 barrel in place of a 2 barrel carburetor, not your case.
You do know that the one you linked to is a dual feed carburetor as each float bowl has an inlet, so that will need addressing ... as yours has a single inlet and a tube on the side to feed the rear float bowl. It has center hung floats where yours has side hung floats, actually preferred by most in most off roading.
Why is your fuel filter up beside the carburetor linkage anyway? If me, I'd both move it and replace it with a metal body fuel filter ... as I rebuilt my old Holley.
I like using two carburetor springs, since I had that one pop loose on a school bus long ago. I made my kick down extension 35+ years ago, I put a 4 bbl intake and carburetor on my formerly 2 bbl engine and since carburetors are centered, that moved the lever forward. Your engine was originally a 4 bbl engine so the lever doesn't get moved. You can see that screw head, I tapped the hole and use a lock nut, it lets one adjust the kick down to full travel minus a hair just at wide open throttle.
I doctored a few pics to show you ... and yeah, likely redundant but I will almost always double clamp fuel hose to fuel lines if I have room. I tend to use 3/8 or 5/16 steel brake tube for some fuel lines, like I did here to cross under the float bowl over the intake behind the distributor ... to my metal fuel filter. When using brake tubing, I lightly swell the end with a start of a flare, then I smooth it well so as to NOT cut into rubber..
Rebuild your carburetor, add a spring, move the fuel filter as you replace it with a metal body one.
Edit: Should have refreshed my page before answering.
You decided to get a new carb? The one that's on there would work fine once rebuilt and tuned properly for the this motor.
This is the type of fuel filter you want. You also want to reroute & rework the metal line off of the fuel pump, so that you can eliminate the several meters of rubber fuel hose you have running around the right side of your engine.
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