Hello all, been reading posts for a year now, first time posting and I'll try and make it short. I purchased a 76 F100 that has been parked about 20-years. Got it running after replacing heads water pump timing chain etc. engine was like new inside. anyhow sounded great. after locating a kill switch I started it a few times, now no spark. it has a Mallory ignition system.
It had power going to coil. now it doesn't. I checked the ignition switch wires and they kind of popped out the back of it, the PO pigged tailed some in. I located where the kill switch is hooked into so I'll check that for power today.
1..OKAY. i replaced two regulators, it has two alternators and two batteries. I smelled burnt wire, one regulator had melting insulation on the back of it. THIS regulator has a red wire going to it, this wire along with a black wire head to the fuse block. the black wire is grounded, but the red wire with the spade connector is not connected. it looks like it would be connected to a fuse. if so do I connect oi to hot when key is on. it looks like the regulator was wired in at the firewall. I don't know where these wires should be, I have looked at diagrams but the colors aren't the same.

2. Anyone have a diagram for the rear of the switch and what the colors should be.

3. after I get this figured out, I'm hoping down the road to put it all back to stock ignition system, looks like all plugs are still there.

4. I went onto the Mallory site and did the trouble shooting, i replaced the pick no change. now no power even coming into the coil. I hoping the wires on the switch are wrong.

I have attached some photo's for reference, any help ideas or suggestions are very weclomed. Thank you, Gweedo

 

Kill switches never last very long. I would get rid if it. Can you ask the previous owner about it ? Maybe it was parked over that.

 

the PO is no longer alive. I put in a new kill switch, since then I have had it running. now the problem is no power to the wire that feeds the kill switch. i'm not getting any power to the back of the ignition switch. I thought power was always to the switch, and then sent to the coil when the switch is turned to start. So now I need to see why there is no power to those wires. headlights turn on so I know power is going through. I don't know if there is a fuse link or what.

 

Lose the kill switch until you get it running good and it starts every time
I had to remove the last Mallory billet distributor I was running after almost getting towed off the bust freeway twice
More than one fuse link but at least the headlights work
Fix one thing at a time correctly
Try to use the same color of wire the factory used
Consider getting a new alternator harness or one that is not fabbed up or molested
They were all about the same harness if it had an external regulator
I have one off an old Stinkin Lincoln on my Boss Mustang now

 

Thnx for the reply, The kill switch will go, but that is not the issue. the wire powering the kill switch doesn't have power. so I need to see why, so the wire coming from the truck harness is where he hooked the kill switch into, but again that wire doesn't have power so its dead before the kill switch comes into play. still need to know about the red wire coming from the regulator down to the fuse box. i would love to re-wire the entire truck with updated fuses, but for now I need to get it running so I can move onto the drivetrain and get all of that done. also need to get a ignition switch wiring diagram.

 

Well, start at the ignition switch
That is where to draw key on power to the coil
So, power to the kill switch is of no consequence
You have a wiring diagram or an EVTM for the truck right?
AllData at your library is a good source for free wiring diagrams

 

You said not what you are driving
I might have a Ford truck wiring book for 1978
The alternator harness can be replaced separately on most Fords of your era
That alternator red wire (or yellow) goes directly to the battery with a stop at the starter relay and a fuse link on most Fords of your era
Replace that repaired regulator connector
Should be able to find some of that wiring at a junkyard pretty easy?
It sure would be easy around here anyway

 

Great thnx, I bought two new regulator connectors, i guess i'll cut open the harness as well. What bothers me is i had it running shut it off and no power, I did have power to coil but now none. I put a test light on each connector of the ignition connector and got nothing. shouldn't one of those wires be hot? I don't have a EVTM (I don't know what that is) do you know of the red wire from the regulator is supposed to be hooked up to a hot lead? thnx

 

sorry forgot, the truck is a 76 f100, but converted to 460, 8-lug wheels, 4x4 looks like a highboy 4-fuel tanks,

 

Yes there should have been power in the connector.

 

The EVTM is just a Ford service manual "Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual"
The old ones for your 76 are different than these new ones from the 80s and 90s
You might be able to find one for your 76 on Ebay

 

sorry for the late reply, just got back from vac out of state. got to take down the xmas decs, then I'll be back on the truck. i the mean time I'll look for the manual.

 

Still dead. I replaced two pick modules, new wires. Pick up check good and coil checks good, I have power to the pick up but no spark coming out. New cap and rotor. Replaced ignition switch. Jumped the neutral safety switch. Everything says it should spark.

scenario. Had truck running, I heard a squeal that sound like it was coming from distributor, Turned of truck and then no start. I saw the center contact on the cap that contacts the rotor was broken. Saw a couple small pieces in the distributor I vacuumed out. I am absolutely lost as to why it’s not sparking.

does anyone know if by chance if a piece of the contact from the cap got under the plate the pick up sits on could cause a short out? I think my next step is the remove the distributor and take it apart. I know nothing about Mallory system.

i performed all tests and everything checks out. Is there something in the electrical system like a fuse I should be looking for? All fuses in the box check good. I put in a new ignition switch and rechecked the wiring, is there a chance if wired incorrectly it would crank and not spark? I traced all wires I couldn’t find/see an issue.

if I remove the distributor and don’t see anything obvious then I’m gonna have to replace everything back to stock. Just didn’t want to do that just yet.

any ideas please let me know. thanks

 

I would get it back to a Duraspark
The Mallory was and is good but when a stator gets intermittent it will screw you
Trying to find one for that Mallory is not as easy as finding a Motorcraft DU-5 Stator

 

Thnx for the reply

Think I'm just going to do that, the PO also put on a second alternator and regulator. just wanted to get it running to pull it in and out for now. the entire drivetrain need to be gone through. parked almost 20-years.

edit, I got a diagram from a place that shows Mallory moving the red wire to the ignition switch side giving it a little more power. I also have two batteries, I've only been using one. gonna hook them both up and see if that makes a difference, perhaps its just not getting enough juice to spark.