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I've done quite a bit of electrical work on GM vehicles but little on Ford. As a matter of fact, all I really remember about Ford was that their wire insulation was particularly bad. Wasn't it the early 80's that the insulation shrank away from the terminals, leaving bare wire exposed for a few inches from every connection? If you dropped a wrench while working under the hood there was a good chance you'd short something out. What a nightmare!
I'm going to have to do some electrical repair on this old truck and need to know...
Who made Ford electrical terminals in the early 60's? Are they still around?
Who makes a decent terminal kit for these vehicles?
I notice that a LOT of wiring has molded terminals. How is this re-created? Are there molded terminals available that must be fitted to wire of appropriate length?
I have found the wiring in these trucks to be quite good. The under-hood wiring is prone to deterioration from heat mostly. GM was no better in that respect. All the wire harnesses are reproduced, they are just like the originals. The under-dash harness is hard to find and expensive. As long as no one has done any redneck repairs to the under-dash harness they tend to be in good usable condition.
If you have the bucks these people can likely get whatever you want. Rhode Island Wiring Service Inc. (riwire.com)
The Master Parts Catalog as well as the year specific ones are all about service parts. The molded ends of the original wiring is not considered a serviceable part so Ford never offered them. There's a reason why. The molded ends are 'injection molded' onto the ends of the wire terminals so it's a tough one for the individual to reproduce in a costly manner. There are molded ends that have about a 5" piece of wire attached that are designed to be spliced on the end of an existing wire. But otherwise you'd have to get a little creative. For example, if you wanted an off the shelf solution for some orange wire with the molded ends there's this one with both a male and female connector.
The place @Crop Duster mentioned I believe used to call themselves Narragansett (in Rhode Island) Reproductions but renamed themselves to Rhode Island Wire when the son took over the business a few years back. They have an injection molding machine that they use to make the various ends for their wiring harnesses. They also have this old school wrapping machine that makes taping their complete harnesses a very fast process. Fascinating to watch. You might be able to talk to them about molding the ends on various colored wires and send them to you to use to replace strands in your harnesses. That's why most people purchase the full harnesses for various places (firewall to engine, etc.) if going for the original look but not having the time/skills/patience needed to replace just the individual wires. The one harness in any given year that's not generally reproduced without a custom order is the main under dash harness as CD mentioned, too.
@TA455HO I appreciate the response, but I was sure hoping for something else. I have no problem making wire and connections, but really like for them to look like one piece, as in factory. Sounds like I'm going to have to get used to the 'spliced look' when repairing Ford wires. I'll take a look at that website but sounds like every little wire is going to be a custom job, which of course means more $$. I'm coming in behind a rookie wanna-be electrician and a rodent. Not as bad as it could be, so i should be happy about that.
If you can't get the repro harness for your needs, buy the molded ended connectors as mentioned above. Open the harness if it's taped and make the splice where it won't show, the re-tape it. Don't use the crimp-tool. Make all your splices with solder and marine heat-shrink tubing. Even if you solder on a terminal and heat shrink it for insulation, it will look decent. Remove the red and blue plastic insulators from the crimp-terminals. Especially if you like an original look....to me nothing looks worse than those cheap-appearing plastic crimp insulators.
One recollection and a well-deserved comment about a long ago wire problem on Ford's and now I'm considered a serial bitcher, lol.
I'll take a look at Eckler's, but I'm not really looking for harnesses, at least not at this point. I'd much rather repair the originals. From what I've seen so far I should be able to skate by with a few repairs. We'll see.
If you can't get the repro harness for your needs, buy the molded ended connectors as mentioned above. Open the harness if it's taped and make the splice where it won't show, the re-tape it. Don't use the crimp-tool. Make all your splices with solder and marine heat-shrink tubing. Even if you solder on a terminal and heat shrink it for insulation, it will look decent. Remove the red and blue plastic insulators from the crimp-terminals. Especially if you like an original look....to me nothing looks worse than those cheap-appearing plastic crimp insulators.
I do generally crimp, even when soldering, but it kinda depends on what I'm working with. Big on solder and shrink tube. Like you, I can't stand the sight of the red/blue/yellow insulators. They have to come off, if I have to use the terminal.
I haven't used them yet, but the heat shrink/solder butt connectors sure look nifty. Slip the wires in each end and hit it with a heat gun and it melts the solder to join the wires and heat shrinks the tubing around that for a watertight seal. No annoying lump where the wires are twisted together. Seems like a great invention. I don't get out much so these may have been around longer than I realize.