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Dealing with a 1955,I think F100...Not mine. The owner attempted to install the rear glass,ruined the rubber but didn't break the glass. I got called in because I'm a so called expert but I can't get this thing in. The glass is original,cab undamaged,he got the rubber from LMC,don't know the brand. It appears the gasket is too big as I can pull either the top or the bottom easy enough but when going around, the rope gets extremely tight and it becomes a no go. The rope and rubber were lubed with dish soap. I guess the questions are what brand rubber is best and are there any tricks I need to know? The truck has been converted to 12v. It appears that the after market 12v wiper motor assembly is NLA at this time. The original 6v works good. I tried a couple 12-6v adapters but they are apparently for low amperage and didn't work at all. Does anyone know of a voltage reducer that will work? Will 12v be OK? Thanks!!
Not sure this applies to your year truck, but I know that there are some years where the rear window glass is installed from the INSIDE of the cab, not the outside. Trying to do it from the outside in that case is a fools errand and usually leads to damages.
As for the wiper control, there are voltage stepdown units that are rated for higher amperage (you probably want something in the 10A range), but they cost more. Here are a few Amazon listings that may work:
Not sure this applies to your year truck, but I know that there are some years where the rear window glass is installed from the INSIDE of the cab, not the outside. Trying to do it from the outside in that case is a fools errand and usually leads to damages.
As for the wiper control, there are voltage stepdown units that are rated for higher amperage (you probably want something in the 10A range), but they cost more. Here are a few Amazon listings that may work: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=12+to+6V+reducer+10 (I like the ones with the cast aluminum bodies)
It's the same for a 55, install from inside . The big rubber lip is on the inside as it holds up the headliner.
It's a shame Mid Fifty is closing. Their catalog had a great illustration on how to install rear window.
It's the same for a 55, install from inside . The big rubber lip is on the inside as it holds up the headliner.
It's a shame Mid Fifty is closing. Their catalog had a great illustration on how to install rear window.
I don't know if they plan on taking down their website but the instruction are all still there, page may come up blank but if you hit download they appear..
On the glass,we did it from the inside. After watching every video I could find,I think I picked up a valuable tip from one guy. He said to put pressure on the gasket instead of the glass when the rope gets tough to pull. That makes sense as the harder we pushed on the glass,the tighter the rope. We will give it another go when the new gasket shows up. Not taking chances on the one we had as it seems to be stretched and loose fitting.
The aluminum body voltage reducer on Amazon...It looks like the wiper assembly would have to be isolated from ground as the reducer has a separate ground circuit. Probably not going to be doable IMO. The gold reducer with the lead on each end doesn't work,just gets hot. The one Speedway sells claims to be 10 amp. Not true in our case.
The aluminum body voltage reducer on Amazon...It looks like the wiper assembly would have to be isolated from ground as the reducer has a separate ground circuit. Probably not going to be doable IMO. The gold reducer with the lead on each end doesn't work,just gets hot. The one Speedway sells claims to be 10 amp. Not true in our case.
I believe the grounds do not need to be isolated and the input is ground is internally connected to the output ground, and so you should be good to go.
The "gold reducer" is likely simply a big resistor that heats up. I find resistive reducers need to be tuned to the load and not necessarily the best all purpose voltage reducer type.
On the glass,we did it from the inside. After watching every video I could find,I think I picked up a valuable tip from one guy. He said to put pressure on the gasket instead of the glass when the rope gets tough to pull. That makes sense as the harder we pushed on the glass,the tighter the rope. We will give it another go when the new gasket shows up. Not taking chances on the one we had as it seems to be stretched and loose fitting.
The aluminum body voltage reducer on Amazon...It looks like the wiper assembly would have to be isolated from ground as the reducer has a separate ground circuit. Probably not going to be doable IMO. The gold reducer with the lead on each end doesn't work,just gets hot. The one Speedway sells claims to be 10 amp. Not true in our case.
Where did you order new gasket?LMC gasket might be part of your problem.Was it actually from Dennis Carpenter?If not I would get gasket from Carpenters or Steele.
I don't know if they plan on taking down their website but the instruction are all still there, page may come up blank but if you hit download they appear..
I believe the grounds do not need to be isolated and the input is ground is internally connected to the output ground, and so you should be good to go.
The "gold reducer" is likely simply a big resistor that heats up. I find resistive reducers need to be tuned to the load and not necessarily the best all purpose voltage reducer type.
You think the ground on these is just a straight through deal? You are probably correct and we will order one and give it a shot.
leonharu...we did order direct from Carpenter on the new gasket.
Maybe we should download lots of those instructions to have just in case.
If you click on any of those instructions now it comes up as a blank page and why I mentioned you have to it the download..hopefully the keep their web page available..too much for me to store..