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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Back window--- wipers

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Old Dec 14, 2023 | 10:09 AM
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Back window--- wipers

Dealing with a 1955,I think F100...Not mine. The owner attempted to install the rear glass,ruined the rubber but didn't break the glass. I got called in because I'm a so called expert but I can't get this thing in. The glass is original,cab undamaged,he got the rubber from LMC,don't know the brand. It appears the gasket is too big as I can pull either the top or the bottom easy enough but when going around, the rope gets extremely tight and it becomes a no go. The rope and rubber were lubed with dish soap. I guess the questions are what brand rubber is best and are there any tricks I need to know? The truck has been converted to 12v. It appears that the after market 12v wiper motor assembly is NLA at this time. The original 6v works good. I tried a couple 12-6v adapters but they are apparently for low amperage and didn't work at all. Does anyone know of a voltage reducer that will work? Will 12v be OK? Thanks!!
 
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Old Dec 14, 2023 | 11:23 AM
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Not sure this applies to your year truck, but I know that there are some years where the rear window glass is installed from the INSIDE of the cab, not the outside. Trying to do it from the outside in that case is a fools errand and usually leads to damages.

As for the wiper control, there are voltage stepdown units that are rated for higher amperage (you probably want something in the 10A range), but they cost more. Here are a few Amazon listings that may work:
Amazon Amazon
(I like the ones with the cast aluminum bodies)
 
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Old Dec 14, 2023 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by bmoran4
Not sure this applies to your year truck, but I know that there are some years where the rear window glass is installed from the INSIDE of the cab, not the outside. Trying to do it from the outside in that case is a fools errand and usually leads to damages.

As for the wiper control, there are voltage stepdown units that are rated for higher amperage (you probably want something in the 10A range), but they cost more. Here are a few Amazon listings that may work: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=12+to+6V+reducer+10 (I like the ones with the cast aluminum bodies)
It's the same for a 55, install from inside . The big rubber lip is on the inside as it holds up the headliner.

It's a shame Mid Fifty is closing. Their catalog had a great illustration on how to install rear window.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2023 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by abe
It's the same for a 55, install from inside . The big rubber lip is on the inside as it holds up the headliner.

It's a shame Mid Fifty is closing. Their catalog had a great illustration on how to install rear window.
I don't know if they plan on taking down their website but the instruction are all still there, page may come up blank but if you hit download they appear..
 
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Old Dec 15, 2023 | 07:20 AM
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On the glass,we did it from the inside. After watching every video I could find,I think I picked up a valuable tip from one guy. He said to put pressure on the gasket instead of the glass when the rope gets tough to pull. That makes sense as the harder we pushed on the glass,the tighter the rope. We will give it another go when the new gasket shows up. Not taking chances on the one we had as it seems to be stretched and loose fitting.
The aluminum body voltage reducer on Amazon...It looks like the wiper assembly would have to be isolated from ground as the reducer has a separate ground circuit. Probably not going to be doable IMO. The gold reducer with the lead on each end doesn't work,just gets hot. The one Speedway sells claims to be 10 amp. Not true in our case.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2023 | 08:30 AM
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I have found automotive electrical wire to be the easiest to use in place of rope and tire install lube .
 
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Old Dec 15, 2023 | 09:10 AM
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I used the waxed rope and when pulling the rope at the corners use a circular motion to work the rubber..
 
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Old Dec 15, 2023 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by headloct
The aluminum body voltage reducer on Amazon...It looks like the wiper assembly would have to be isolated from ground as the reducer has a separate ground circuit. Probably not going to be doable IMO. The gold reducer with the lead on each end doesn't work,just gets hot. The one Speedway sells claims to be 10 amp. Not true in our case.
I believe the grounds do not need to be isolated and the input is ground is internally connected to the output ground, and so you should be good to go.

The "gold reducer" is likely simply a big resistor that heats up. I find resistive reducers need to be tuned to the load and not necessarily the best all purpose voltage reducer type.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2023 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by headloct
On the glass,we did it from the inside. After watching every video I could find,I think I picked up a valuable tip from one guy. He said to put pressure on the gasket instead of the glass when the rope gets tough to pull. That makes sense as the harder we pushed on the glass,the tighter the rope. We will give it another go when the new gasket shows up. Not taking chances on the one we had as it seems to be stretched and loose fitting.
The aluminum body voltage reducer on Amazon...It looks like the wiper assembly would have to be isolated from ground as the reducer has a separate ground circuit. Probably not going to be doable IMO. The gold reducer with the lead on each end doesn't work,just gets hot. The one Speedway sells claims to be 10 amp. Not true in our case.
Where did you order new gasket?LMC gasket might be part of your problem.Was it actually from Dennis Carpenter?If not I would get gasket from Carpenters or Steele.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2023 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 56panelford
I don't know if they plan on taking down their website but the instruction are all still there, page may come up blank but if you hit download they appear..
Here is their instructions page: https://midfifty.com/instructions.php

Maybe we should download lots of those instructions to have just in case.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2023 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by bmoran4
I believe the grounds do not need to be isolated and the input is ground is internally connected to the output ground, and so you should be good to go.

The "gold reducer" is likely simply a big resistor that heats up. I find resistive reducers need to be tuned to the load and not necessarily the best all purpose voltage reducer type.
You think the ground on these is just a straight through deal? You are probably correct and we will order one and give it a shot.
leonharu...we did order direct from Carpenter on the new gasket.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2023 | 07:30 AM
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I used an LMC rear window gasket on my 55 and it went in very smooth, no issues at all.

Jim
 
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Old Dec 16, 2023 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Harrier
Here is their instructions page: https://midfifty.com/instructions.php

Maybe we should download lots of those instructions to have just in case.
If you click on any of those instructions now it comes up as a blank page and why I mentioned you have to it the download..hopefully the keep their web page available..too much for me to store..
 
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Old Dec 17, 2023 | 12:02 AM
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IDK if these are still available but it's what I used when I did my 12 volt conversion back in 2017.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2023 | 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Scotty's 52 F3
IDK if these are still available but it's what I used when I did my 12 volt conversion back in 2017.
Dragging this back up...Any info on where you got this,manufacturer or part number would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
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