99 hard start issue
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2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2023
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99 hard start issue
Ok so I bought this truck non running. Now I cannot figure it out. It's got a bunch of new stuff from the previous owner. New ICP, new IPR, new PCM,new turbo
since I've got it I swapped the orings on injectors (fuel in the oil) and change the oil. I can get it to start on its own but it has to crank for like 10 seconds. But once it gets warm and I shut it off it will not restart. So what am I missing here? I also noticed it will not start until the oil gauge inside move. Sometimes that's 6 seconds sometimes 10. But after it's warm I can barely get it to move and it won't start.
since I've got it I swapped the orings on injectors (fuel in the oil) and change the oil. I can get it to start on its own but it has to crank for like 10 seconds. But once it gets warm and I shut it off it will not restart. So what am I missing here? I also noticed it will not start until the oil gauge inside move. Sometimes that's 6 seconds sometimes 10. But after it's warm I can barely get it to move and it won't start.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,861
Likes: 2,335
From: WV
Welcome to FTE!
It kind of sounds like the HPOP reservoir is draining down or a LPOP issue. But also suspect would the the IPR. Brands other than motorcraft can cause all types of issues and there are lots of convincing fakes floating around on Amazon/eBay etc.
Anyhow, I’d start by checking the HPOP level before you start it. It should be within about an inch of the top.
If low, try filling it and see if it starts quicker.
Next up would be getting a scan tool and FORScan in my opinion. That way you can watch some parameters while cranking. There’s a couple stickies on FORScan at the top of our sub-forum and an entire section dedicated to it within the tech folder (also at the top of our forum).
For OBD dongles the BAFX seems to be a popular cheap option while the OBDLink is a nice more expensive choice.
I personally purchased the OBDLink due to it having its own provided app (for other vehicles), their app has deeper functions (again for other cars), and sleep mode which means it can stay in your OBD port without draining the battery. The OBDLink app is pretty good. I’ve used this dongle & app for many other vehicles and have been impressed with its ability.
It kind of sounds like the HPOP reservoir is draining down or a LPOP issue. But also suspect would the the IPR. Brands other than motorcraft can cause all types of issues and there are lots of convincing fakes floating around on Amazon/eBay etc.
Anyhow, I’d start by checking the HPOP level before you start it. It should be within about an inch of the top.
If low, try filling it and see if it starts quicker.
Next up would be getting a scan tool and FORScan in my opinion. That way you can watch some parameters while cranking. There’s a couple stickies on FORScan at the top of our sub-forum and an entire section dedicated to it within the tech folder (also at the top of our forum).
For OBD dongles the BAFX seems to be a popular cheap option while the OBDLink is a nice more expensive choice.
I personally purchased the OBDLink due to it having its own provided app (for other vehicles), their app has deeper functions (again for other cars), and sleep mode which means it can stay in your OBD port without draining the battery. The OBDLink app is pretty good. I’ve used this dongle & app for many other vehicles and have been impressed with its ability.
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2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2023
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Checked the reservoir level this morning it was full. Im gonna have to scan it I do believe I'm not getting any codes at all. But this morning after checking a few things my fuel bowl was empty. So I rolled the key over and filled it and it fired up with just a couple seconds. (still smoking) but started a lot better. So I let it warm up and see if it would start and it fired back up Everytime.
With that said I have a new sound that developed this morning and I don't like it. I'm about 100 percent sure it's a injector knock.
Now my question is. Will this issue cause all the smoking? I'm sure it could if overloading with fuel right? And could the injector bad drain the fuel bowl like that?
With that said I have a new sound that developed this morning and I don't like it. I'm about 100 percent sure it's a injector knock.
Now my question is. Will this issue cause all the smoking? I'm sure it could if overloading with fuel right? And could the injector bad drain the fuel bowl like that?
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,455
From: Muskogee, Ok
What is the temperature there when it's smoking? Below 50⁰ out and non winter fuel and poor glow plugs or the AIH not working ( ebrake light must be on) and it will smoke for a few minutes till the engine is warm and the incoming fuel gets warmed up
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,813
Likes: 1,335
From: Elk Grove, CA
Any chance we can get video of the smoke and knocking sound?
A lot of white smoke and no power sounds like a failing fuel pump. A lack of fuel rather than too much. Here's a link to help get a fuel pressure reading. The write up is very complete so it looks harder than it really is.
Or just install a dedicated fuel pressure gauge instead. I always recommend one because there's no OEM sensor for FP, thus no way to read it with a scanner.
A lot of white smoke and no power sounds like a failing fuel pump. A lack of fuel rather than too much. Here's a link to help get a fuel pressure reading. The write up is very complete so it looks harder than it really is.
Or just install a dedicated fuel pressure gauge instead. I always recommend one because there's no OEM sensor for FP, thus no way to read it with a scanner.
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