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I am with SkyJackson.
I installed the 6.0 ATF cooler, and bypassed the radiator, as I did not trust it to be clean, nor did I want a chance of Strawberry milkshakes in my transmission.
Also, get rid of any stupid thermostats or external filters and reject all bad advice to install these...
During winter time do people not have issues getting their transmission fluid up to temp if they aren’t towing? I know with my 6.0 radiator cooler I wouldn’t touch 110 TFT during the winter. I would barely ever get 100 degrees above ambient unloaded so I ended up installing a derale thermostat and now see 150-170 when unloaded.
During winter time do people not have issues getting their transmission fluid up to temp if they aren’t towing? I know with my 6.0 radiator cooler I wouldn’t touch 110 TFT during the winter. I would barely ever get 100 degrees above ambient unloaded so I ended up installing a derale thermostat and now see 150-170 when unloaded.
During winter time do people not have issues getting their transmission fluid up to temp if they aren’t towing? I know with my 6.0 radiator cooler I wouldn’t touch 110 TFT during the winter. I would barely ever get 100 degrees above ambient unloaded so I ended up installing a derale thermostat and now see 150-170 when unloaded.
is 110* considered an issue?
My temps during cold seasons are lower, I can't recall the range but I've never had a concern of lower temps. everything works just as if it's warm. Shoot, in the summer I only get to around 140 empty and never get above 170-180. lately i think running temp might be around 160 during summer temps. i'll have to pay closer attention. It does seem to be a bit warmer than it once was. I'm blaming that on my condenser being beat up by bugs
is 110* considered an issue?
My temps during cold seasons are lower, I can't recall the range but I've never had a concern of lower temps. everything works just as if it's warm. Shoot, in the summer I only get to around 140 empty and never get above 170-180. lately i think running temp might be around 160 during summer temps. i'll have to pay closer attention. It does seem to be a bit warmer than it once was. I'm blaming that on my condenser being beat up by bugs
From what I’ve read from Mark Kovalsky 170 is the ideal operating temp of the 4r100. I also believe I remember reading somewhere that moisture doesn’t get removed effectively until 150 degrees. Depending on the day I wouldn’t see 100 degrees which is a problem.
I have this thread saved where he gave some great information on the 4R100.
From what I’ve read from Mark Kovalsky 170 is the ideal operating temp of the 4r100. I also believe I remember reading somewhere that moisture doesn’t get removed effectively until 150 degrees. Depending on the day I wouldn’t see 100 degrees which is a problem.
I have this thread saved where he gave some great information on the 4R100.
During winter time do people not have issues getting their transmission fluid up to temp if they aren’t towing? I know with my 6.0 radiator cooler I wouldn’t touch 110 TFT during the winter. I would barely ever get 100 degrees above ambient unloaded so I ended up installing a derale thermostat and now see 150-170 when unloaded.
There are no issues running ‘cooler’ fluid temperatures - based on the 100’s of 1000’s of cumulative miles on the trucks I’ve personally done this modification to.
However, I’ve seen the unnecessary thermostats and filters fail and cause problems.
When I asked Brian at BTS about this, he said something like if the oil in cooler is gelled up from EXTREME cold, the bypass on transmission will open. Unless you’ve bought a transmission that has that feature foolishly deleted.
By contrast, the ATF suffers at some point above 200*. HOT fluid also damages friction material. At 30k mile service interval, the fluid should look and smell similar to when it was installed.
Clearly, Mark knows more than I ever will about these transmissions - but I have no problem recommending the 6.0 cooler to anyone. ESPECIALLY if your truck and usage generates high transmission fluid temperatures. (Stock is fine for most people)
There are no issues running ‘cooler’ fluid temperatures
Except that moisture can accumulate in the trans and cause corrosion. Hotter temperatures drives off the moisture, cooler temperatures allows it to collect in the trans.
Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
However, I’ve seen the unnecessary thermostats and filters fail and cause problems.
Me, too.
My solution is to have a lot of cooling and put a piece of cardboard in front of it in the colder months.
Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
When I asked Brian at BTS about this, he said something like if the oil in cooler is gelled up from EXTREME cold, the bypass on transmission will open. Unless you’ve bought a transmission that has that feature foolishly deleted.
Exactly! I had this happen to me before I was a transmission engineer.
I was using an early 80's Econoline (this was in the late 80's) with a C6 to tow a trailer with a Ranger on it. I was in Michigan's Upper Peninsula in January. It was about -20°F. The trans overheated and dumped the fluid. That trashed the trans and it had to be rebuilt. With what I know now, I am sure the ATF in the cooler gelled and that stopped lube to the rear half of the trans, causing the failure.
Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
By contrast, the ATF suffers at some point above 200*. HOT fluid also damages friction material. At 30k mile service interval, the fluid should look and smell similar to when it was installed.
That temperature for modern fluids is about 300°F, not 200°F.
Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
but I have no problem recommending the 6.0 cooler to anyone. ESPECIALLY if your truck and usage generates high transmission fluid temperatures. (Stock is fine for most people)
Except that moisture can accumulate in the trans and cause corrosion. Hotter temperatures drives off the moisture, cooler temperatures allows it to collect in the trans.
Ive read this before and have questions based on my limited knowledge...
If I understand correctly, this transmission is freely vented to atmosphere. So it stands to reason that as it cools, the vapor space can take in some moist air that could condense inside the transmission.
It seems like that water would rapidly mix with the ATF and effectively create an emulsion. My experience with vegetable oil is that you can’t break an emulsion at even above the boiling point of water - the water doesn’t just boil off at that temperature and leave clean oil. Perhaps ATF is different?
I know some of the 4R100’s I’ve had rebuilt locally have over 200k miles in cold climates with 6.0 cooler and have never shown any indication of moisture contamination.
As always, thank you for sharing your knowledge here!!
Clearly, Mark knows more than I ever will about these transmissions - but I have no problem recommending the 6.0 cooler to anyone. ESPECIALLY if your truck and usage generates high transmission fluid temperatures. (Stock is fine for most people)
I was genuinely curious. I have the 6.0 cooler and still recommend it as well and have no issues with it. I haven’t rebuilt a 4r100 so I had based my decision off of what I’ve read and am always looking for other people’s opinions, especially those who have dealt with it way long and more often than me. I appreciate your response and reasoning.
It seems like that water would rapidly mix with the ATF and effectively create an emulsion.
I can't say that this can't happen, but I have not seen it happen. And for over half a century I lived in Michigan where it got pretty cold. Now I live in South Florida and don't worry about the cold.
I'm overdue for a flush and i will be a guinea pig for not worrying about maintaining 170* Luckily I only drive 5-6k a yr. Unfortunately,, I'm not in a position to be able to do a flush, so it'll have to wait. Also, I live in Colorado so I don't have to worry about moisture issues as much, I don't think/ in theory
I do have a stupid question for those that install the 6.0 cooler. what rubber hose are you using exactly? I do not remember what I used and Brian warned me about this but my rubber hose sweats. it's never leaked a drop but it's also not dry either. There is definitely some tranny fluid moisture/soak on the rubber hose.
I need a high quality line that won't do this. the line from the local auto stores seems to be junk or I'm not asking for the right stuff. I even went in the back to look at all the lines they had and chose the best one that would fit and was usa made.
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