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‘Fuel and oil’ is not the correct hose and it does not hold up in this application.
‘Transmission cooler hose’ is really expensive. Local auto parts actually sent my neighbor home with 1/2” heater hose and told him it should be fine.... (don’t expect much from $11/hr employees )
The last couple times I’ve bought it, I got 25ft from amazon to avoid the $7-8 retail by the foot locally.
I also get rid of the +20yr old factory cooler hoses by adapting the 1/2” hose directly to the 3/8” hard lines from transmission using compression adapters to hose barb.
On the temperature thing, I’ll just say again that in my limited experience - there has never been any indication of a problem from moisture. At least a couple of the trucks I’ve done this to plow snow all winter. I’ve seen pictures of them packed solid underneath with slush and ice. No transmission issues for over 10yrs now.
Unless someone can confirm this has actually been a problem, I will continue not worrying about it.
also, I'll have to look but I can't remember exactly how I adapted my lines. Not going to look today though, it's only going to be a high of roughly 22* without windchill factored in
also, I'll have to look but I can't remember exactly how I adapted my lines. Not going to look today though, it's only going to be a high of roughly 22* without windchill factored in
My understanding is that water in trans fluid will create acids which will eat at friction materials, shortening their lifespan. This can be more or less damaging depending on a lot of factors. A lot of **** can go wrong before that particular failure mode is the culprit.
Maybe I learned that from Jerry at a Grateful Dead concert, not sure.
What I DO know is get trans fluid temps warm enough and the water will find a way out, emulsion or not. Water is a self absorbed (!) a-hole and things mix in it, but it mixes with nothing. Get it hot it gets gone.
I don't use my truck near as much as before so I'm in preservation mode. I make it a point to get the trans temps over 140* every couple of months just for this reason. And run the heater and AC every drive.
‘Fuel and oil’ is not the correct hose and it does not hold up in this application.
‘Transmission cooler hose’ is really expensive. Local auto parts actually sent my neighbor home with 1/2” heater hose and told him it should be fine.... (don’t expect much from $11/hr employees )
The last couple times I’ve bought it, I got 25ft from amazon to avoid the $7-8 retail by the foot locally.
I also get rid of the +20yr old factory cooler hoses by adapting the 1/2” hose directly to the 3/8” hard lines from transmission using compression adapters to hose barb.
I am looking at Amazon now, and 25' is going for $65.81 today.
so, $2.6324 per foot.
what do I do with the other 21 ft of hose?
come to think of it, the hose that I bought was for my Fuel Sump Adapter, so it is good to go.
what I need to find out now, is what kind of hose my mechanic used to install the 6.0 ATF cooler last month?
The '6.0' cooler from Dieselsite has AN ports and hose barbs intended to fit whichever size hose your rig has.
Since I already had the AN hose and fittings, I opted to skip to the end. Just to remove all doubts and clean up the install.
Ok, I’m going to do some experiments with water and ATF.
If the system holds 16-17qrts of ATF, how much water is possible over time? (in theory, 30k miles - the recommended service interval that only changes ~1/2 the ATF...)
A teaspoon? A pint??
Im going to start with a ~teaspoon of water in ~12oz of used ATF to determine if we can see water contamination with our naked eye...
This is 1tsp (measured) water with used ATF from a 4R100 added. Before agitation, the water can easily be seen in the bottom of the bottle.
After shaking it vigorously (picture the Shake Weight), there is no discernible change in color, etc.... Not a milkshake.
That’s probably going to end my experiment... I don’t have a way to measure moisture content.
This also explains why I’ve never ‘seen’ evidence of moisture. Clearly this ATF is CONTAMINATED.
That said, my theory is that even in excess of 212*F - the water content will remain. The difference between 90*, 140* and even 300* is probably irrelevant.
In fact, the hotter the transmission gets, the MORE moist air it will ‘breathe’ as it cools down. Just to throw another log on the fire here! (for friendly debate and educational purposes)
I am not married to these ideas. I can be educated and change my beliefs!!! I ‘question’ Mark not to make him look bad, but to learn from people smarter than me. It is healthy to be a skeptic - unless you think the earth is flat, then IDK......
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I don’t have a way to measure moisture content. 
