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I can't get my truck to act up all the time but it has had moments. Over the past 3 weeks it's happened five times.
Pulling off from a dead stop rather quickly, my truck loses all power and goes into an idle mode for a split second. Truck runs fine after the episode but has a wrench light and the light stays on until I shut the truck off. Restart the truck and the light is gone, everything is good.
Last night I pulled the air filter off and reinstalled it upside down so I could get to the harness. With the truck running I wiggled every part of the harness I could get to. The truck didn't stutter one bit.
Having two errors out of the three throttle position sensors will put you into a forced idle.
P2132 - Throttle Pedal Position Sensor Switch F - Circuit low input, and
P2138 - Throttle Pedal Position Sensor Switch D/E - Voltage correlation
P2139 - Throttle Pedal Position Sensor Switch D/F
P2140 - Throttle Pedal Position Sensor Switch E/F
Could be the throttle assembly or wire chafing. Wire chafing is common for adjustable pedals near where the steering column and wiring harness get close, and at the firewall.
Oddly enough, a short in the EBP sensor or the wiring can also produce throttle sensor codes. Also, the wiring harness has a somewhat common chafe point under the air intake tube that feeds the turbo and it can be responsible for throttle sensor codes.
A commonality with all your codes is the v-reference circuit,
Check your ICP, EBP, ACC pedal, MAP, Baro and egr valve pigtails as they all share the same v-reference circuit.
Mine was when my HG was blown the degas bottle was constantly venting and it ended up filling my EBP sensor with coolant. blew it out on the side of the highway and was all good to go.
I haven't found any chafing yet. Pedal wires looked great. Pulled the map sensor and hose off last night to inspect. All looked good no clogged nips or holes in the hose.
Something I noticed on the way home yesterday was the boost is high when I'm cruising around 70 mph.
This is running about 70 with a very slight incline.
Another thing I noticed is oil around the upper hot side cac boot to the turbo. Looks like the boot has been "misting" oil. I can get pictures of that if yall want.
I'll do more investigating today. Thank you so much.
I agree that one of your MAP readings doesn't seem to agree w/ Boost and Baro like it should. But then you have two MAP readings and I am not sure what the input source is for each.
I agree that one of your MAP readings doesn't seem to agree w/ Boost and Baro like it should. But then you have two MAP readings and I am not sure what the input source is for each.
Intermittent problems are the worst!
EGR valve is still in and plugged in.
No hiccups since last weekend. I drive it every day BUT I don't jump out in traffic like I'm late for work.
On the 2 maps bismic, it's the way my torque has been since downloaded. I believe the large map gauge is actually boost.
Edit: I do have duplicate gauges on the screen. It's dumb I know.
I guess I would clear the codes, unplug the EGR valve and the EBP sensor and drive that way for a while to see if the problems would repeat itself. Those two (EGR valve and EBP sensor), along with the early ICP sensors, were the most common to have internal issues.
I guess I would clear the codes, unplug the EGR valve and the EBP sensor and drive that way for a while to see if the problems would repeat itself. Those two (EGR valve and EBP sensor), along with the early ICP sensors, were the most common to have internal issues.
Seriously thinking about replacing the harness bismic. Just saying the hell with it. Dude is an older truck but can still do more than these newer 150s and such that have a price tag too high for its actual worth. I'll replace both sensors and the damn harness. Hell I'll rebuild the whole damn thing before I get new truck. My wife and kids can have the new stuff.
It still has the original harness. Bound to crap the bed some time soon away.
What are your thoughts towing no more than 5k with those unplugged? I have no clue that's why I ask. Need to Friday
I know that towing w/ the EGR valve unplugged can be done, even when towing light. IMO you could also do that kind of towing w/ the EBP sensor unplugged. Just don't go crazy w/ the acceleration.
