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HEY GUYS need some help. ( see pic attached ) I am 98% done with the newly remaned engine going in (351m). Spent all weekend. Super bummed because I wanted to fire it and break in the cam today. Check out the pic I am attaching. My distributor wont go all the way in because there is a plug in the way that is not seated completely it seems. It looks to be an allen plug. I checked my old block and its there too but its seated all the way and wont block distributor. Can I get a stubby allen in and tighten it. What is that plug even for? This is litterally the last thing i need to fix to fire it and break-in the new cam. Thank you
Probably an oil gally plug. you could try to tighten it, but if it doesn't go easy, I'd pull it and put a shallower plug in. if you overtighten it and it doesn't work you may not get it back out without pulling the front off.
I'm tempted to get a die grinder bit - stuff a paper towel down under it and hold a magnet to catch the shaving while I grind it. I dont think it needs much. Thoughts?
You can try it with a modified Allen wrench, one long handle, a short leg to go into the plug. Likely is same size as your old block uses. I've used a Dremel tool or a cutoff wheel in my angle grinder to cut some Aleen wrenches down on one leg. You aren't gonna be able to swing it very far but you may not need to go far either ... doesn't look like it has to be flush..
Is it for sure the plug hitting the distributor body down low ... or could it be ... the gear's hex cavity just not engaging the oil pump shaft's hex end? Might try rotating the distributor rotor a little back and forth as you test fit it?
Originally Posted by Ianmattf100
I'm tempted to get a die grinder bit - stuff a paper towel down under it and hold a magnet to catch the shaving while I grind it. I dont think it needs much. Thoughts?
Thanks Tbear, yes it is for sure hitting the plug. I have installed a number of distributor and pretty good at them. I was rotating the engine - the rotor, all of the tricks for a solid 45 min. The spare block I have this plug is seated more but a least a 16th an inch. I will try cutting down an allen wrench and turning it more in the morning. I was reading that some people have used longer plug than needed and they run into the lifter on that side and will prevent it from spinning and lifting. That would be horrible. This is the first flat tappet cam I have ever broken in and I'm nervous enough. I am thinking that if I get the plug to screw in far enough for the dizzy to clear. i can then rotate the engine by hand and watch the pushrod and rocker and make sure its lifting. What sucks is the machine shop did this. 3k for a shortblock. Kind of wish they would fix it but its the last thing I need done then ready to fire.
I just went and looked close at my engine on the stand, thar face of the block is abought exactly flush with the edge of the distributor hole side wall. That plug on mine accepts a 5/16" Allen wrench. Mine is actual recessed into the block a good 1/16", maybe 3/32" even. Unless the angle is just right, for the Allen wrench to line up on the hex, you'll not get it in but once, just not enough "swing room" in the distributor hole. That plug seals the end of the drilled passage that feeds the driver side lifter bores. I did note that if the water pump and timing cover plate are removed, a window in the cam sprocket I have will let a long 5/16" hex Allen socket to line up on the plug.
Yeah, definitely do not want it too far in. It wouldn't take much to really "FUBAR" the whole deal. There is a chance they reused the original plug, threaded it into the hole, and BUD never tightened it. If they used a longer plug, any tighter might be too tight. If you tighten that and it hits the lifter, it's not likely gonna stop the lifter moving, it'll just gouge it ... think "FUBAR" again.
Thanks again Tbear. yes I just spent both days the entire weekend assembling this engine and then dropped it into the truck as well. All of this by myself. To have to take the whole front apart after I just finished it is beyond frustrating. I guess theres just no way to know if the plug is too long and if it hits the lifter or not? I am seriously just tempted to shave some of that thing off. Paper towel in the bottom and a magnet right next to the carbide bit to catch shavings. Any shavings that drop to the paper towel I should be able to get with the magnet - pull paper towel - drop in dizzy.
Ian,
If it was mine, I would probably try cutting off a piece of the allen wrench about 3/4 inch long.
Use a 1/4 inch wrachet and a socket that fits that allen size,,, tape it up good,,, then try to tighten allen plug.
Always hard to make suggestions without being there, But from this distance that would be my idea.
A better wrachet has a closer distance back for the next round of tighnening, If that makes any sense..
And if I could not tighten it satisfactorly, I"d cann the supplier of the reman and tell them about their problem,
Last edited by Old Guy F-250; Nov 5, 2023 at 10:20 PM.
Reason: Add::And if I could not tighten it satisfactorly, I"d cann the supplier of the reman and tell them about their problem,
Thanks Old f250 - I really want to try that but I am spooked it might run into the lifter if its too long. There just no way of know i dont think. Unless I try to unscrew it all the way and check and then put back in using your method.
Might work. At this point, if me, I would probably pull the water pump and plate, maybe timing gears too ... if a window in the top sprocket didn't line up ... and back that plug out for a good look, then measure with a depth gage to be certain it has enough room before hitting a lifter ... most plugs are pretty short. In real faint yellow, I marked about where the lifter bore is and that wall the plug is in.
I'll go probe from the lifter bore back to the plug in this block.
Thanks Tbear, those pics give me a greater understanding. Sure does seem like that plug would need to be a decent length to hit the lifter. It would almost be easier to pull the intake and then the lift and look down there after tightening the plug would you think? I am seeing some affordable low profile allen ratchet wrenches at home depot and harbor friend that I believe would make tightening it easy from the dizzy hole.
Heres my plan - in the morning I will cut down an allen wrench to fit in the dizzy hole. I am going to see if its easy enough to pull the plug from my old blown up 400 block. If its easy enough I should be able to pull the one in the new engine and compare the lengths. If I have a shorter one i will go with that and seat it flush. Thanks again for all the pointers. I'll let you know how it goes.
I looked from an angle, I can just see the tip of the plug looking through the lifter bore from like the rear of the block, using a light. I pulled the plug, my plug there is 7/16" long from face to the little tit on the end. I used a depth gage, found the hole is 3/4" from the face under the distributor to me feeling the other end in the bore with my finger inserted. Then I put my oil galley plug back. 3/4" is 12/16", so take away 7/16" leaves 5/16" free space. When I tighten mine, it's a 1/16" or a hair more recessed .... so I guess mine has close to 1/4" free space from lifter to plug end.
Like said, most plugs are about the same length. If I thought they just threaded it in after hot tanking, I'd worry they never tightened it. If you pulled a lifter and used a bent wire to gage to the tip, or just used good lighting, might help sleep at night. I will add that the plug acted like a bolt, meaning once I broke it free, it come out pretty easy. I was twirling the extension with fingers by time I had it out as far as yours is.
Thanks again Tbear. you truly are the man. At this point my fingers are crossed that I can get the donor one out of the block easy with a cut allen wrench. I also think i could just tighten the one in the new engine ever so little and see if the dizzy drops in. No more work on it for me tonight. Not after this long weekend. That literally all I did all weekend.
Yeah, at least to feel resistance so you know it's tight. I don't have a spare distributor, but I think the gear teeth would be below the plug, so a hair might do it. Maybe two different Allen wrenches clocked differently might work. Get half a flat, switch.
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That plug is likely grade 5 anyway.
If they used a longer plug, any tighter might be too tight. If you tighten that and it hits the lifter, it's not likely gonna stop the lifter moving, it'll just gouge it ... think "FUBAR" again.
