Hey all. Working through the process of getting a 94 IDI Turbo dually with the Rollalong package running again.

Truck was listed for sale as a mechanic special, supposedly wouldn't start after new batteries were installed (huge lie). Turns out, truck got a new starter and new batteries because it locked up. #3 connecting rod cap came off and the crank wedged itself against the rod.

Loooooong story short, got the engine pulled, off to a machine shop, bored. 020" over, new pistons, rings, bearings, head decked, everything.

Come to find out, a previous owner put NA pistons, rods, and crank into a factory turbo motor for some reason and blew it apart.

I've gotten everything I need, except for a set of connecting rods. I'm really hoping this site can help me source a set. I'm getting pretty desperate!

 

Moved to this forum.

 

Thank you, and sorry about that! My intro kind of wandered into an issue post lol

 

Not a problem, we're here to help.

 

the issue was that the person putting the engine together did not properly torque the internals, not because of non turbo parts.
my 88 has a little over 496,000 miles on it, with at least 495K of them with a turbo. it was run hard it's whole life and never taken apart yet.

 

I believe it wasn't until the final year of the IDI (94) that actually put a turbo on the 7.3l. All the others are aftermarket add ones.

 

It was 1993 and (up to) 1994.5 that had the factory turbo, with the second half of 94 being the new Powerstroke.

Definitely not confusing at all, and makes things super easy to search for lol.

I think I finally got a place that will sell and ship me the rods I need, so fingers crossed this thing is back on the road within the month! Machine shop has the crank and cam in the block, and the block and heads painted, so just waiting on these final parts.

 

The turd in question:

 

Hey all, wanted to chime in and update, and get a little more help if I can.

This project was way, way worse and more involved than I ever bargained for. My luck, it turns out the only factory turbo part was the block itself.

So far:
Block bored .020" over
New Mahle pistons with new rings, .020" over and reduced .010" height
New R&D Camshaft
New lifters
New water pump and thermostat (t-stat was a PITA to find!)
New crankshaft and connecting rod bearings
New radiator
Used turbo crankshaft
Used turbo rods
All new seals/gaskets to put the short block back together.

I've started working on the heads now, and am struggling to determine if the exhaust valves are the turbo ones or not. They seem to have "the dimple", but it's different from the pictures in the FSM. I can't make out the number on the valve in the FSM picture, but the number on my valves is 1811191C3. Can anyone confirm the N/A vs. Turbo exhaust valve part numbers?
I've got all new positive-style valve stem seals installed, and new Comp 910 springs.
I do need to replace one intake valve, due to damage on the tip of the stem.
I found this old post on OilBurners (link: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/i.../#post-1090496) about a relocated cross drilling in the cylinder heads, but it's the only time I've ever seen this mentioned. Can anyone confirm this is true, and that the turbo heads are different than N/A?




I also just discovered that the fuel pump, injectors, harmonic balancer, flex plate, and fuel return lines are all N/A versions. Does anyone know a good source for these parts, new or used?

I see a reman turbo fuel pump on eBay for $449.95: Is it worth it to get this reman, or do prices for swapping to electric make more sense? If so, any links to resources for making the swap?

R&D is currently out of stock on OEM and Stage 1 injectors. Is it worth the extra money to use the Stage 1 upgrade if there's no plans to alter the turbocharger or boost level (only mod from OEM is the camshaft)?

Thank you all for your help and knowledge. I swear, one day, I will hear this cursed truck run...

 

When you say turbo fuel pump, do you mean injection pump or lift pump? Assuming injection pump, get a quality reman or get yours rebuilt by somebody who knows how. Not much difference between the two. If you mean lift pump, stay with the mechanical one until later on, then switch to a duralift.

For injectors, imo stay stock. Your stock injection pump will run out of fuel before your injectors hold you back on performance. Justin at R and D did a YouTube video a long time ago where he made 450(iirc) ft lbs of torque and like 18 psi of boost with a completely stock turbo IDI. Stock injectors and stock pump turned all the way up.

 

Awesome, thank you for the info. Yeah, I meant the injection pump. I've seen that the volume and timing is set differently for a turbo motor, so I'll grab that reman.

 

Please please please. DO NOT BUY AN INJECTOR PUMP OFF EBAY..

 

Any reason why not? It's an eBay store front for Pensacola Diesel. Listing is for a reman Stanadyne, with the numbers matching calibration for an automatic turbo IDI.

https://pensacoladiesel.com/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/166185516775

 

^^^THIS^^^

Pensacola Diesel has mixed reviews. If you're going to replace the IP in your truck R&D, or Moose Diesel are both highly recommend.

https://moosediesel.com/

https://idiperformance.com/

 

I see, thank you for letting me know. I like R&D, they communicate very well and the owner seems like a chill dude. I've emailed them asking about inventory on lots of other parts I need, so I'll see what they say after the holiday break.

I'll hold off on Pensicola Diesel for now.