If you’re far away from those guys, don’t be afraid to poke around an injection shop if there’s one close to you. I had mine rebuilt by a guy 2.5 hours away, n I was quizzing him to see if he was legit. Guy got upset n told me he had a 92 IDI inside getting work done, n that he knew more about IDIs than me. I felt safe giving him my business lol. These are a common pump in ag and industrial settings, just not in trucks anymore.

 

pesnicola diesel has a reputation about as good as a bag of garbage sitting on the side of a road...................for two months in the heat of summer.
R&D or Moose only for IDI injector pumps.

 

I can remember when I first joined this forum guys were having problems with Pensacola diesel, and the others were warning them and everybody else to stay away from Pensacola. How have they stayed in business this long lol

 

because people do not read reviews.
there is a guy on another forum who is on his 5th injector pump in 13 months. and this last one pooped the bed too.
but he insists they have good products and will not listen to anyone and is going for pump #6

 

That's crazy. I believe you all, though I am curious to hear more.

I'm hoping my luck is finally improving; I found a guy on FB Marketplace that says he has IDI-T parts, so I'll make the drive today and see what I can get.

 

What about this option? Anyone with experience?

https://dieselcare.store/products/20...31140525408369

 

you have no idea what you are getting with that. for a few dollars more you can buy a pump and injectors from R+D and know for a fact it is just as good or better than when new.

 

You mentioned that you just had the engine rebuilt. There might not be a reason to replace the IP. If you're looking to save money you could always get a gasket kit and try to rebuild the IP yourself. There are plenty of videos on YouTube that cover rebuilding these Roosamaster IPs.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/172629790102

 

The engine is rebuilt and all fresh, but I've had to scour the country's junk yards for all of my turbo parts. I just drove 5hrs to phoenix to pick up cylinder heads, harmonic balancer, flexplate, and fuel pump. (Cylinder heads are complete junk and unusable, and I only trust the injectors and pump as cores at this point, so... yeah).

It'd be a real shot in the foot if I put this old-*** injection pump on the truck and it was so sloppy and worn out that it sends me down a troubleshooting path for something that should have been done when I had it all apart, eh?

 

New day, new troubles.

Finally got the courage to spin the motor by hand, and got some binding at TDC, but only when cylinder 1 & 4 were up. It was very strange feeling, just the smallest bit of resistance at only that point, the rest of the crank spun good. Long story short: took the driver side head off and found that an electrical connector bracket shattered while I was putting hte heads in, never even saw it. A very small shard of plastic was in piston #4 and getting mooshed in the flame-swirl area. Got it removed, re-torqued everything, and the motor spins like a dream now. Crisis averted, and good thing, cause that would have probably been it for me with this truck.

New issue I'm stuck on: with the heads and block decked a total of .010", would I need to put a .010" shim under the rocker arm assemblies to keep the valve preload the same? I noticed while torquing them all down that they compress the spring a bit more than what I'd expect to see, and the pushrods are moveable while the lifter is on the base circle, but it's a very tight fit...

 

Lil big update...

Got the motor all back together (so I thought), front clip on, all the lil b.s. pieces all installed.

Started filling coolant, and it pissed out the driver side. Plug was missing, no big deal. Ran to hardware store, got the plug, put it in with a lil RTV and started filling again. Pissed out the passenger side now... another trip to the store later, and coolant is filled.

Ordered break in oil and started working on all the electrical connections. Got new TPS and glow plug solenoid, then repaired a bunch of wiring that the previous owner butchered and put back together like a hack. Also started charging the batteries.

Oil arrived today, got it poured into the engine, and then filled the fuel filter with fresh diesel.

Cranked it up and... made a lake of break-in oil under the truck.

Should I have assumed the oil galley plugs were also removed, since I had the warning shot with the coolant plugs? Probably. Should my machine shop have told me the plugs were removed? Probably. At the least, they should have given them back to me when I picked it up...

So, trans is gonna come out and I'll resolve this fresh hell.

 

Sorry you're having difficulty. One step closer to hearing her run though.

 

look at it on the positive side.......at least you know the oil galleys are full of oil!!

 

I just think it's great to see someone with an IDI in California of all places. It was my home, I'm in Florida now. Back in 2006, I had a 6.9 when I was still living there. It was tired so I ran it on B99 to keep the complaints about the smoke to a minimum. Smelled like French Fries so I was actually doing more for the carbon cycle than thier Prius.
I just get a kick out of how convoluted there smog laws are that they just let the IDI pass as long as it doesn't smoke on the dyno. Just loosen up that throttle cable and you'll pass....
Hoping to move back there and bring my 7.3 IDI Dually with me. If I do, I'll get in touch with you.

 

94 is smog exempt so it's the perfect Cali toy hauler. Someone will definitely want to buy it (I hope)