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As most of you know, Ford offered a topper from the factory. I have heard that they were made by Leer, but I can't find solid evidence on that. My plan is to kind of restore my topper to near-factory condition. I do have a couple of problems.
First: The surface of the topper is showing its age. The topcoat has been sun baked and now the fiberglass is exposed. I don't think there is no way to restore this to factory condition because it was kind of bumpy. I was thinking either using the fiberglass repair resin or a product called "GelCoat" from Total Boat. TotalBoat Gelcoat With or Without Wax | Marine Gelcoats
Second: My side windows are split, not sliding. This piece of hard rubber, the wrinkled piece, is hard to find. I don't think this style of side window was common. All four windows (two on each side) have the Carlite etching so I know that the topper came this way. Does anyone know where or what I can use to replace these? I have heard that the window seals are all hard to find (with exception of the front window, it's the same as the cab rear window). Also, has anyone ever found replacement seals for the side and rear windows?
Third: I think the rear struts are the same as early Bronco struts. Can someone confirm this before I buy them online.
Parts for these things are hard to find. From the seals, to the side compass emblem, to the small parts that you don't think of. But man, do I love the convenience of a dry bed while living in the PNW. Added a couple more pics for fun.
Following along as my factory topper needs the same treatment. That gelcoat looks nice. I don't think the fiberglass resin kits would work very well. It may be that it will need a seal coat of epoxy primer, then a skim coat of bondo over the entire thing to smooth it out. I just do not know as I've never worked with fiberglass on this scale. Another thought, was the original topper smooth?
I wonder if someone with a scanner and 3D printer could replicate the compass emblems.
I've repaired fiberglass like this..it's not a fun job. It just like rust repair, you need to sand or grind all that loose and oxidized fiberglass down to good glass before you can repair it, but it's way worse to work with. Make sure to wear a full body suit, cover any exposed skin and preferably wear a full face respirator when sanding or grinding the fiberglass. Maybe look into getting it media blasted instead.
There are body fillers with chopped fiberglass in them made specifically for this. They're generally used for thinner repairs and finish skim coating. It's commonly called "tigers hair" in the auto body world. For larger/deeper areas or spiderweb cracking I'd use sheets of layered fiberglass mat. If you have any big cracks, drill the ends, grind them down about halfway through and an inch or more on each side and "stitch" them with thin short strips layered 90 degrees to the crack, then strips that are longer than the crack layered 90 degrees to top of those, then build it up with full sheets.
Gel coats are just resin but they are usually more clear and thinner so they flow out to give a nice finished surface. You can use regular resin as a top coat but it could end up cloudy/yellow/etc and will probably have a slightly uneven surface, or could have tooling marks from spreading it, once cured. I'm pretty sure I've read the original rough finish was because they were sprayed with gel coat that had chopped fiberglass in it after they came out of the mold. A DIY bedliner kit applied with a more coarse fiber paint roller might mimic it, I might even try mixing in some chopped fiberglass.
I don't think bondo is the answer. Originally, the topper had a bumpy surface, not smooth. The bondo would definitely crack up. The fiber-bondo would be good small work, not the entire thing.I have thought about 3D printing the compass. Talked to a friend who has knowledge of this. He says it would probably cost about $100 for one. So I guess that's an option.
I once bought one, it was cracked from a corner of the back lift glass. Investigation showed the aluminum support was cracked too. Made new frame of steel, added corner braces, patched exterior cracks with fiberglass, all was well, never cracked again. I think it was maybe "Leer", but not sure. I traded it off for some tree work.
Ford used Starcraft to build the American Road factory slide in campers. I never knew who built the bed covers, construction and finish looked like the 78 to 96 Bronco tops.
As most of you know, Ford offered a topper from the factory. I have heard that they were made by Leer, but I can't find solid evidence on that. My plan is to kind of restore my topper to near-factory condition. I do have a couple of problems.
First: The surface of the topper is showing its age. The topcoat has been sun baked and now the fiberglass is exposed. I don't think there is no way to restore this to factory condition because it was kind of bumpy. I was thinking either using the fiberglass repair resin or a product called "GelCoat" from Total Boat. TotalBoat Gelcoat With or Without Wax | Marine Gelcoats
Second: My side windows are split, not sliding. This piece of hard rubber, the wrinkled piece, is hard to find. I don't think this style of side window was common. All four windows (two on each side) have the Carlite etching so I know that the topper came this way. Does anyone know where or what I can use to replace these? I have heard that the window seals are all hard to find (with exception of the front window, it's the same as the cab rear window). Also, has anyone ever found replacement seals for the side and rear windows?
Third: I think the rear struts are the same as early Bronco struts. Can someone confirm this before I buy them online.
Parts for these things are hard to find. From the seals, to the side compass emblem, to the small parts that you don't think of. But man, do I love the convenience of a dry bed while living in the PNW. Added a couple more pics for fun.
Sitting on 35" TSLs.
Older pic with the Turbines and 33" BFGs.
Hey Slikwillie..... I noticed no one answered your question about the rubber seal between the 2 side glasses. Did you find a seal for them? Is the lift arm for the hatch the same as the classic bronco? Bringing back an old thread because it needs answers. Thanks
Hey Slikwillie..... I noticed no one answered your question about the rubber seal between the 2 side glasses. Did you find a seal for them? Is the lift arm for the hatch the same as the classic bronco? Bringing back an old thread because it needs answers. Thanks
I did find the seal between the glass in TX. I messaged the guy, he responded, I asked how much and I was ready to pay. He hasn't gotten back. That was a month ago. And yes, the early bronco lift arms are the exact same, made by a company called Attwood. That's all the info I really got so far. More to follow this summer when the rain here is good and gone.
Slikwillie, what about these hydraulic liftgate struts? I have always hated the ones on these toppers and on the broncos. I guess I got hit in the head 1 too many times when they didnt catch.
If you get someone to print out a compass emblem, let us all know. There may be a line forming.
I have no input on the hydraulic type of hatch struts as I have never bought or seen them operate. As for getting the compass 3D printed, I reached out to two companies. They both said there is no clear plastic available to make them, only white or a light yellow. Both did not look even remotely close. But, I know, someone out there has a huge Tupperware full of them as a retirement investment or something. Lol! Just gotta keep looking.
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