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NP271F transfer case differences

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Old Oct 27, 2023 | 05:06 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
If you can, upgrading to pressure lube is much more reliable than relying on splash lube. I had the exact same failure and the truck didn't even have 60k on it when it died.
Is this upgrade the updated shaft and fork or soemthing else?
 
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Old Oct 27, 2023 | 06:43 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Tpayne621
Is this upgrade the updated shaft and fork or soemthing else?
That's my GUESS. Mine came from the factory without an oil galley for the shift fork, but with other oil galleys. New kit had an extra oiling galley for the small shift fork.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2023 | 09:31 AM
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Thanks fellas.

Found these guys in my search. Came recommend from an auto mechanic friend of mine. Super-super helpful dude for sure he knew all about these cases and the range fork issues. Hooked me up with the parts I need I’ll just go that route and redo mine.

https://www.idahotrans.com

I gotta wonder how many rigs are still on the road with the old splash oiled range forks. Not that I don’t want to upgrade just curious is all.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2023 | 08:34 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Rot Box 2
Still trying to figure out the best option moving forward. This might be the ticket to upgrade my early case (splash oil) to pressurized oil like the later more reliable cases?

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/mob...ctinfo/716210/

Sounds like I can use some of the internals from a NP273F and gain a synchros…. Might be an option too.

Thanks for following along,

Andrew
There is no point in adding synchros to an NP271, the only purpose they serve on the NP273 is to bring the front driveshafts up to speed while moving so the auto hubs can engage. With the NP271 if you are moving you can only engage 4x4 with the front hubs locked and at that point no synchro is needed since both driveshafts are already turning at the same speed.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2023 | 02:01 PM
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That makes sense good to know thanks.

Well I got the transfer case all put back together just need to install it—sweet! Not a hard job at all but it’s times like these where you put a pair of snap ring pliers to the test lol.


Mercon V? I was gonna fill it, run it then dump it after a handful of miles just to be safe.

Thanks again fellas,
 
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Old Nov 2, 2023 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Rot Box 2
That makes sense good to know thanks.

Well I got the transfer case all put back together just need to install it—sweet! Not a hard job at all but it’s times like these where you put a pair of snap ring pliers to the test lol.


Mercon V? I was gonna fill it, run it then dump it after a handful of miles just to be safe.

Thanks again fellas,
Use regular cheap Mercon rated ATF you can get at Walmart or any auto parts store.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2023 | 09:40 AM
  #22  
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In and filled with fluid! Does the pump self prime? I noticed the fluid level (fill plug) sits a ways below the pump. Am I over thinking it or just drive?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2023 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Rot Box 2
In and filled with fluid! Does the pump self prime? I noticed the fluid level (fill plug) sits a ways below the pump. Am I over thinking it or just drive?
It has a pickup from the pump down to bottom of case near drain plug. So it sucks fluid up from there. If its a manual tcase just put t case in neutral and let it idle in gear and it should prime it up pretty quick. Otherwise just drive around slowly for couple minutes and it will be fine.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2023 | 09:50 AM
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Prefect. Thanks for the quick reply!

I cleaned the sump screen and magnet really well should be good to go. Wish me luck haha
 
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Old Nov 3, 2023 | 09:55 AM
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What was the final total on the updated parts if you don't mind me asking? I'm half tempted to update mine before it becomes a issue.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2023 | 10:04 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Tpayne621
It has a pickup from the pump down to bottom of case near drain plug. So it sucks fluid up from there. If its a manual tcase just put t case in neutral and let it idle in gear and it should prime it up pretty quick. Otherwise just drive around slowly for couple minutes and it will be fine.
The pump is driven by the rear output shaft, having it in neutral idling won't do anything, rear output has to be spinning for the pump to work.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2023 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 00t444e
The pump is driven by the rear output shaft, having it in neutral idling won't do anything, rear output has to be spinning for the pump to work.
I couldn't remember if it was driven by input or output. It's been a while since I've had one apart. Either way just take it easy on it few miles and it will be fine.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2023 | 10:15 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Tpayne621
What was the final total on the updated parts if you don't mind me asking? I'm half tempted to update mine before it becomes a issue.
So that Idahotrans place I linked above had a used updated main shaft for $75. The new fork was $45 and the new slider was $45. Not too bad at all.

I would not attempt it without a heavy duty pair of snap ring pliers for sure haha.


Truth be told I think I was just on borrowed time. Transfer case was likely original to the 250k mile truck. Sure the updated components are likely better but I think there’s a million of the non-updated cases out there on the road kicking butt. I don’t know if I’d worry about it too much.


I would however recommend everyone get under there and check the six mounting bolts and make sure they’re tight! I think there should be dowel pins between the trans and t-case from the factory but there’s not..





 
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Old Nov 3, 2023 | 10:48 AM
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On my Zf6 there is a single dowel between trans and t case.
 
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