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Battery light on most of the time. No real rhyme or reason to when its on or off. But mostly its on. The batteries hold a charge well above 12 V. The alternator puts out roughly fourteen point four volts.
I replaced the idler arm and serpentine belt inhopes that this would help as the idler and belt where on there way out.
Im not sure how to use a multimeter to check continuity on wires nor how to check resistance with it. I am trying to learn how. I am struggling. Truck seems to run normally.
Truck has been shifting somewhat erratically not sure if it corresponds with the electrical issue at hand or not. Only throwing it in there in case its points to something.
Get FORScan and the exact OBD II reader they tell you to get. Start with this as it may take a day or two for the reader to arrive.
Pull all codes, clear them, then pull them again. See what you have.
See the attached document and do every step in the order it is written. You can do all of this prior to getting the reader and pulling codes.
Also pull the belt off and check every tensioner, roller, pulley, etc for proper condition. Consider some 300 or so grit wet dry paper on the smooth crankshaft roller as belts like to slip after years of smoothing it out.
Since this is the first post here we need to know stuff.
Tell us about mod you have done or those that have been done.
Miles on engine, sticks, tunes, transmission, service items and such help us out quite a bit.
I’ll try to make this as short as possible. I have a 2008 F350 with 6.4 powestroke.
About 2 weeks ago I had smoke coming from the hood. After investigating further I was amazed to see the inside of my alternator on fire literally!! Mind you, battery light was not on then. So, I go to NAPA and get alternator. After a few choice words, I get it installed. Crank her up and battery light comes on. Meter shows 12.8 v. So, second NAPA alternator exchange and crank her up, battery light does not come on. Drive and idle with everything on for at least an hour, no battery light. Voltage is steady at 14.3- 14.7. Next day crank her up
Battery light comes on. Voltage is consistent at 14.2- 14.7 volts. Check the batteries all good. Take it to the local shop and it shows a code generator voltage field high. Mechanic says it has to be a wiring issue. I’ve checked all fuses and relays and wires that I could find and test no issues found. It has been running and driving for about two weeks with no issues except battery light on. Any suggestions!!!!
Battery light comes on. Voltage is consistent at 14.2- 14.7 volts. Check the batteries all good. Take it to the local shop and it shows a code generator voltage field high. Mechanic says it has to be a wiring issue. I’ve checked all fuses and relays and wires that I could find and test no issues found. It has been running and driving for about two weeks with no issues except battery light on. Any suggestions!!!!
Take the alternator back and buy a ford one, very common that the aftermarket alternators can’t keep the battery light off, they just can’t seem to copy fords regulator design and the pcm gets cranky and throws the battery light on.