Crank no start
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 38
Likes: 2
Crank no start
I have a 1999 crank no start just replaced the pcm , it will fire off of ether for a second then stop , on my dash the only light that comes on is the battery light, rpm’s do not move also
Last edited by Auzcole; Oct 24, 2023 at 12:22 AM.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,455
From: Muskogee, Ok
Oh boy...
First off stop using ether. If the glow plugs are working correctly they will ignite it before top dead center, then you're replacing real expensive stuff. Leave the ether for your 80s lawn mower
If you don't have the wait to start light there's no point in cranking, nothing will happen without it. Unplug the fuel bowl heater/water in fuel sensor from the fuel bowl. It's the only thing that goes to the fuel bowl, right above the IPR. Replace fuse #30 under the dash, even if it tests good.
If you still do not have a wait to start light replace the relay for the IDM under the hood in the big fuses' box. Just swap it with the one for your HVAC blower for now to diagnose if that's the failure
Once you get a WTS light we can diagnose some more if you still have a no start
First off stop using ether. If the glow plugs are working correctly they will ignite it before top dead center, then you're replacing real expensive stuff. Leave the ether for your 80s lawn mower
If you don't have the wait to start light there's no point in cranking, nothing will happen without it. Unplug the fuel bowl heater/water in fuel sensor from the fuel bowl. It's the only thing that goes to the fuel bowl, right above the IPR. Replace fuse #30 under the dash, even if it tests good.
If you still do not have a wait to start light replace the relay for the IDM under the hood in the big fuses' box. Just swap it with the one for your HVAC blower for now to diagnose if that's the failure
Once you get a WTS light we can diagnose some more if you still have a no start
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 38
Likes: 2
Oh boy...
First off stop using ether. If the glow plugs are working correctly they will ignite it before top dead center, then you're replacing real expensive stuff. Leave the ether for your 80s lawn mower
If you don't have the wait to start light there's no point in cranking, nothing will happen without it. Unplug the fuel bowl heater/water in fuel sensor from the fuel bowl. It's the only thing that goes to the fuel bowl, right above the IPR. Replace fuse #30 under the dash, even if it tests good.
If you still do not have a wait to start light replace the relay for the IDM under the hood in the big fuses' box. Just swap it with the one for your HVAC blower for now to diagnose if that's the failure
Once you get a WTS light we can diagnose some more if you still have a no start
First off stop using ether. If the glow plugs are working correctly they will ignite it before top dead center, then you're replacing real expensive stuff. Leave the ether for your 80s lawn mower
If you don't have the wait to start light there's no point in cranking, nothing will happen without it. Unplug the fuel bowl heater/water in fuel sensor from the fuel bowl. It's the only thing that goes to the fuel bowl, right above the IPR. Replace fuse #30 under the dash, even if it tests good.
If you still do not have a wait to start light replace the relay for the IDM under the hood in the big fuses' box. Just swap it with the one for your HVAC blower for now to diagnose if that's the failure
Once you get a WTS light we can diagnose some more if you still have a no start
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 994
Likes: 367
From: Republic of Texas
Wes44...... I got your back on this one.
Fix the WTS as stated. Nothing will work without the PCM.
No PCM no WTS.
No PCM no other lights will work as the PCM controls them.
As stated.. Fix the WTS issue then the rest will get worked out after.
And make darn sure the batteries stay topped off or you will have other issues. Use a real charger.
Fix the WTS as stated. Nothing will work without the PCM.
No PCM no WTS.
No PCM no other lights will work as the PCM controls them.
As stated.. Fix the WTS issue then the rest will get worked out after.
And make darn sure the batteries stay topped off or you will have other issues. Use a real charger.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,455
From: Muskogee, Ok
^^^
Yep.
What was the initial problem that led you to replace the PCM?
Your batteries need to have 10.5 volts while cranking in order for the PCM to tell the IDM to fire the injectors, assuming you have over 120rpm while cranking. But all that is moot without a WTS light
If you replaced the PCM and that wasn't the problem to begin with you are still at square 1. It could be a bad battery cable, bad ground at the block, bad battery terminal, blown #30 fuse, bad IDM or PCM relay (these are becoming a common issue as our trucks are aging together) a bad ground at the dash, a burned out WTS bulb throwing off the diagnostic steps, or a couple other issues.
Our problem is we can only help based off the info you give us, the legwork is up to you, but we're more than willing to share knowledge and get ya going again
Yep.
What was the initial problem that led you to replace the PCM?
Your batteries need to have 10.5 volts while cranking in order for the PCM to tell the IDM to fire the injectors, assuming you have over 120rpm while cranking. But all that is moot without a WTS light
If you replaced the PCM and that wasn't the problem to begin with you are still at square 1. It could be a bad battery cable, bad ground at the block, bad battery terminal, blown #30 fuse, bad IDM or PCM relay (these are becoming a common issue as our trucks are aging together) a bad ground at the dash, a burned out WTS bulb throwing off the diagnostic steps, or a couple other issues.
Our problem is we can only help based off the info you give us, the legwork is up to you, but we're more than willing to share knowledge and get ya going again
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 38
Likes: 2
^^^
Yep.
What was the initial problem that led you to replace the PCM?
Your batteries need to have 10.5 volts while cranking in order for the PCM to tell the IDM to fire the injectors, assuming you have over 120rpm while cranking. But all that is moot without a WTS light
If you replaced the PCM and that wasn't the problem to begin with you are still at square 1. It could be a bad battery cable, bad ground at the block, bad battery terminal, blown #30 fuse, bad IDM or PCM relay (these are becoming a common issue as our trucks are aging together) a bad ground at the dash, a burned out WTS bulb throwing off the diagnostic steps, or a couple other issues.
Our problem is we can only help based off the info you give us, the legwork is up to you, but we're more than willing to share knowledge and get ya going again
Yep.
What was the initial problem that led you to replace the PCM?
Your batteries need to have 10.5 volts while cranking in order for the PCM to tell the IDM to fire the injectors, assuming you have over 120rpm while cranking. But all that is moot without a WTS light
If you replaced the PCM and that wasn't the problem to begin with you are still at square 1. It could be a bad battery cable, bad ground at the block, bad battery terminal, blown #30 fuse, bad IDM or PCM relay (these are becoming a common issue as our trucks are aging together) a bad ground at the dash, a burned out WTS bulb throwing off the diagnostic steps, or a couple other issues.
Our problem is we can only help based off the info you give us, the legwork is up to you, but we're more than willing to share knowledge and get ya going again
Last edited by Auzcole; Oct 19, 2023 at 12:04 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
Likes: 52
From: Wheatland, Mo
I will second the No Ether advice.
As for the 30amp fuse, that circuit also powers the fuel bowl heater. So if the heating element shorts, it blows the fuse as it should but also pulls power to the PCM.
if the 30 amp fuse keeps blowing, unplug the fuel bowl heater. At the back/bottom of the bowl. Then replace fuse and see if it still blows when the ignition is turned to run. Don't need to crank.
As for the 30amp fuse, that circuit also powers the fuel bowl heater. So if the heating element shorts, it blows the fuse as it should but also pulls power to the PCM.
if the 30 amp fuse keeps blowing, unplug the fuel bowl heater. At the back/bottom of the bowl. Then replace fuse and see if it still blows when the ignition is turned to run. Don't need to crank.
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Hoschton,GA
I 3rd no either. Use WD-40 instead. I always recommend you unplug the bowl heater and leave it unplugged because I have seen too many times that the fuse did not blow when it shorted causing the PCM to get fried. I would also check the PCM for any bent pins because this is a common issue I have seen over the years.
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Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 38
Likes: 2
I 3rd no either. Use WD-40 instead. I always recommend you unplug the bowl heater and leave it unplugged because I have seen too many times that the fuse did not blow when it shorted causing the PCM to get fried. I would also check the PCM for any bent pins because this is a common issue I have seen over the years.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,455
From: Muskogee, Ok
Have you unplugged the fuel bowl heater? And leave it that way
Have you tested the diode in the large under hood fuse box?
Have you inspected/cleaned the block grounds from the battery?
Is your PCM ground clip installed inside the black plastic box that holds it?
Are you sure you got the PCM plug aligned straight and is correctly tightened all the way?
Have you unplugged the PCM and checked over each individual pin inside the plug to make sure none are bent over?
Have you tested the diode in the large under hood fuse box?
Have you inspected/cleaned the block grounds from the battery?
Is your PCM ground clip installed inside the black plastic box that holds it?
Are you sure you got the PCM plug aligned straight and is correctly tightened all the way?
Have you unplugged the PCM and checked over each individual pin inside the plug to make sure none are bent over?
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 38
Likes: 2
Have you unplugged the fuel bowl heater? And leave it that way
Have you tested the diode in the large under hood fuse box?
Have you inspected/cleaned the block grounds from the battery?
Is your PCM ground clip installed inside the black plastic box that holds it?
Are you sure you got the PCM plug aligned straight and is correctly tightened all the way?
Have you unplugged the PCM and checked over each individual pin inside the plug to make sure none are bent over?
Have you tested the diode in the large under hood fuse box?
Have you inspected/cleaned the block grounds from the battery?
Is your PCM ground clip installed inside the black plastic box that holds it?
Are you sure you got the PCM plug aligned straight and is correctly tightened all the way?
Have you unplugged the PCM and checked over each individual pin inside the plug to make sure none are bent over?
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 38
Likes: 2
I tired to switch it with idm and the pcm still no luck I know I am getting power to the pcm I was able to pull codes from it and I tested the hot pin inside the connection
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 38
Likes: 2
Crank no start
Ok so I have a 1999 with a no wait to start the only thing on the dash that works is the battery light everything else does not ,no fuel no oil, no temps nothing , I have replaced every fuse connected to the pcm idm and the cluster the relays are all good the diode is good I have power to the pcm it’s self I was able to pull codes from it and tested the hot wire inside of it , I have fixed battery cables have the voltage needed , I need help I don’t know where to go next
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 994
Likes: 367
From: Republic of Texas
Some folks just want to find the one guy to post this.... Today I am that guy...
Stop throwing parts at it and do what we asked previously. Let us know what you have in detailed answers to what we asked previously.
We need specific parameters and numbers... Fixed or changed or spec tell us absolutely nothing. You were given several things to look at and do and your responses were worthless at best.
Starting a new post with the same issue will get you nowhere.
Stop throwing parts at it and do what we asked previously. Let us know what you have in detailed answers to what we asked previously.
We need specific parameters and numbers... Fixed or changed or spec tell us absolutely nothing. You were given several things to look at and do and your responses were worthless at best.
Starting a new post with the same issue will get you nowhere.