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There is a 'Tech Folder' for the '99-03 7.3....go to that folder and down to the 'no start'.... look at the 'flow chart' ... This will give you an idea of 'yes' this works or 'no' this does not 'work' and suggestions on why and what to do.
No Ether ever.... boom...
You said that you were able to 'pull codes', what did you use to 'pull them' and what were they?
(if your 'post'/'problem' 'rolls' off the front page, post again and that will 'bump' it back up)
There is a 'Tech Folder' for the '99-03 7.3....go to that folder and down to the 'no start'.... look at the 'flow chart' ... This will give you an idea of 'yes' this works or 'no' this does not 'work' and suggestions on why and what to do.
No Ether ever.... boom...
You said that you were able to 'pull codes', what did you use to 'pull them' and what were they?
(if your 'post'/'problem' 'rolls' off the front page, post again and that will 'bump' it back up)
I followed that chart to begin with and I used forscan to pull the codes I also today have redid my battery wiring and it sounds better when cranking but still not wait to start or dash working
Some folks just want to find the one guy to post this.... Today I am that guy...
Stop throwing parts at it and do what we asked previously. Let us know what you have in detailed answers to what we asked previously.
We need specific parameters and numbers... Fixed or changed or spec tell us absolutely nothing. You were given several things to look at and do and your responses were worthless at best.
Starting a new post with the same issue will get you nowhere.
I am really not trying to be that guy I just want my truck fixed , I have done everything y’all have asked me to do , and I don’t know how to be more specific, if you can tell me what to me more specific on I will gladly tell you , I have looked at my previous post looked at all of the answers and tried them with no results and no one is responding so I made a new post and tried to be more clear if I can be more clear please tell me where and I can get y’all numbers or whatever y’all need to help and if I have missed something tell me and I can try it and will get back to you
ok so I have unplugged the fuel bowl heater , I have replaced the fuses almost all of the ones inside of the cab and under the hood have triple checked them the fuse box is good as in it’s getting power to it , the relays are good they click when key is turned on I also switched with blower to make sure , I replaced the diode , the pcm has no bent pins and is clean (it is new from diesel tech of Chattanooga ) I tested the hot pin inside it has power and I was able to connect to it through forscan and pull codes from it , I have tightened the main wiring harness the three bolts going into the cab i have checked the wiring harness where it goes across the valve cover to make sure it’s not wearing down there , today I replaced and cleaned the battery cables and connections I cleaned the battery post , the battery’s are good and are steady at 12.5 volts there is other things that I have done but can’t think of them right now
You installed a new PCM. (from Diesel Tech of Chattanooga). Was your old PCM 'bad'? Did you have the no 'wait to start' light before changing the PCM to a new one?
Do you know someone who has a 7.3 with the same type of PCM that does run and be able to 'borrow' their PCM? I am sure that your 'new' PCM is fine, but it is good to know. If possible you can ask (if you know someone with a 7.3) to install your new PCM in their truck to see if all works fine. Just tossing out a suggest and disregard if you want.
These are suggestions that I have found on the web:
If the fuses are all good (look in your Owners Manual for those associated w/PCM) then next unplug the engine sensors by disconnection the large square Black connector over the Drivers side Valvecover and see if the WTS returns.
Another suggestion, (not my truck): I had a no wts light issue. It turned out to be the fuse block itself. A soldered connection inside for the fuse had broke. If fuse is good but no wts light, this likely the problem.
(Other suggestions I found online): I would recheck the fuses (one may have blown between starting attempts). Don't waste your time leaving the plugs on and trying to start without a WTS. If the PCM isn't running, neither is the GPs nor the Fuel Pump.
You installed a new PCM. (from Diesel Tech of Chattanooga). Was your old PCM 'bad'? Did you have the no 'wait to start' light before changing the PCM to a new one?
Do you know someone who has a 7.3 with the same type of PCM that does run and be able to 'borrow' their PCM? I am sure that your 'new' PCM is fine, but it is good to know. If possible you can ask (if you know someone with a 7.3) to install your new PCM in their truck to see if all works fine. Just tossing out a suggest and disregard if you want.
(Other suggestions I found online): I would recheck the fuses (one may have blown between starting attempts). Don't waste your time leaving the plugs on and trying to start without a WTS. If the PCM isn't running, neither is the GPs nor the Fuel Pump.
If the fuses are all good (look in your Owners Manual for those associated w/PCM) then next unplug the engine sensors by disconnection the large square Black connector over the Drivers side Valvecover and see if the WTS returns.
Another suggestion, (not my truck): I had a no wts light issue. It turned out to be the fuse block itself. A soldered connection inside for the fuse had broke. If fuse is good but no wts light, this likely the problem.
yes my old one was bad I sent it to them to get it checked I had no wait to start , they tested it said it was bad and sent me this one I don’t have someone that has a truck like this and thank you I will try to disconnect the sensors and check
Sounds like a harness issue but i didnt read everything or follow what is going on with other posts and such. I would check at a sensor Like the cps since you have a code for that and see what is there.
As DP-TUNER, pointed out in post #8. where he has seen where the heating element in the Fuel Bowl burning through and shorting out and NOT blow a fuse but could/has harmed the PCMs. You could check if the fuel bowl heating element is burned through by taking the fuel bowl lid off and look at the element. There most likely will be a lot of build up of 'grunge' and junk at the bottom of the bowl. It would be good to clean this grunge out and pull the heating element spades off so there is no current going into the bowl.... if... you decide to plug the back of the bowl (heating element/water in bowl) connection back up. you do not need the heating element in the fuel bowl unless you live about the Arctic Circle. I unplugged my heating element inside the bowl and out side the bowl.
Step by step, You/we, will find the issue. when you do, please report what the final cause may have been. This will help other 7.3 owners in the future.
Sounds like a harness issue but i didnt read everything or follow what is going on with other posts and such. I would check at a sensor Like the cps since you have a code for that and see what is there.
Sorry what exactly am I looking for like frays or what
As DP-TUNER, pointed out in post #8. where he has seen where the heating element in the Fuel Bowl burning through and shorting out and NOT blow a fuse but could/has harmed the PCMs. You could check if the fuel bowl heating element is burned through by taking the fuel bowl lid off and look at the element. There most likely will be a lot of build up of 'grunge' and junk at the bottom of the bowl. It would be good to clean this grunge out and pull the heating element spades off so there is no current going into the bowl.... if... you decide to plug the back of the bowl (heating element/water in bowl) connection back up. you do not need the heating element in the fuel bowl unless you live about the Arctic Circle. I unplugged my heating element inside the bowl and out side the bowl.
Step by step, You/we, will find the issue. when you do, please report what the final cause may have been. This will help other 7.3 owners in the future.
Thank-you
ok thank you , I have my bowl disconnected and I did not really notice any grundge in it I have replaced the fuse with no results as far as I can see there is no fuse broken off inside of it or any junk I have a test light and it tells me I have power to the hot side where the fuse sticks in
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