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I bought a used set of 80's era steel F-250 wheels on ebay for $100, and added a set of new Firestone LT 265/75-R16 tires for $350. The tire diameter is 31.65" versus the 33" diameter 7.50 X 17 tires I was running. So, it does gear down the rear end, but only slightly. It looks and runs very nice. I think these modern tires are better at braking and cornering. And, they don't develop flat spots from being parked.
Talked to the tire guy, he will mount the tires on the split rims, he uses cages and chains. He puts about 10 - 15 lbs air in, then mounts them on the truck before taking them up to ful pressure. That way if the blow, it's into the truck, not into him...
He also has 7.50 x 17 tires on the floor !!! They are a lot cheaper than the 7.00 x 17 Firestones I was going to get from Coker. ( $141.00 CDN vs $214.00 CDN )
The truck had 7.00 on the front and 7.50 on the rear, so I don't see a problem with 7.50 all around..
I think you will be close on the front end with the 7.50 tires. With my 7.50 tires, I rubbed the frame on the trailing edge. But, only on one side. That is probably why the had the fronts 7.00.
I am running without caps, which is how the truck was sold. They were an option on the F2 and F3 trucks. I like the look. I will post some pictures sometime when the site will let me.
Caps may have been a option but they were on this old farm truck, and in all the ones Ive seen at the junk yards. I would be interested in a compromise to keep them if anyone has ideas. I once thought of the military rims/wheels with some sort of bump or studs welded on to accept the inner caps. I really don't want modern wheels for a non-daily driver truck but will get some if I have to go far, that is ore than down the alleys and local streets.
Even some of the Ford sales literature showed the F2 & F3 trucks sans hub caps.
I think you have a good idea to weld something to the wheels. I envision a right angle piece of 16 or 18 gauge steel (0.060 to 0.048 thick) spot or fillet welded with the flange pointing to the center of the wheel. Three or four of these would be needed. The perpendicular arm would have a tapped hole (10-32) that you could run a screw through. You could reach through the wheel hub hole and adjust the screws to get the right snap fit. Then run a jam nut down srcew to lock it in place
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