F-2 rims will fit and use the same hubcaps. I guess the aren't illegal in Canada. We had a flat fixed on our '65 M-350 17" split rims.

 

The F1 wheels (15") and the F2 wheels (16") are both 6 lug patterns. I need an 8 lug bolt circle. Since my rear end is 4.86, I don't want to change to a smaller diameter wheel and tire.

 

The F-1 uses a 5.5 x 5 bolt pattern, The F-2 uses the same 6.5 x 8 bolt pattern as the F-3. Ford used a 6 bolt wheel starting in '53 on the 350. I'm running 90's Ford F-150 wheels on my F-1 rearend. You can put 7.50 tires on the 16" rim that would be even with the stock 7.00 tires on the 17" or 1" smaller than the 7.50.

 

Steve, the 62 F250 I recently dragged home has 8 lug 17" on it as well as some 8 lug 16" tossed in the bed. I havent looked to see if those are widow maker or later style with the locking ring.

Dont know if that is the same pattern you need but Im parting the hulk out.

2speed, those Daytons are original to my truck. those and Budd style were both available. My 350 was a one family owner before I got it.

 

Steve;
I think that any Ford or GM 3/4 ton or 1 ton 16", 16.5", or 17" wheel with an 8 lug pattern, up to and including 1998, will fit on your truck; after 1998 the Fords went to a metric pattern, I think.
But I don't know how easy it is to fit your B F Goodrich wide whites on a one piece wheel!
Has anyone out there tried it?

 

Guys thanks for all the help. I had gotten the wheel info from the 1952 Ford Truck Chassis Specifications, but I had mistaken the last number to mean lugs. It must be the ply rating.

Regarding the wide whites, I don't like them. They looked great on a 39 Pontiac I once had. They look out of place on a truck. Maybe I can get different wheels and tires.

Regarding compatibility, don't I need to be concerned with the offset distance (axial) and the center hole circle diameter?

 

I have done some investigation, and found that it is illegal in Minnesota for a tire shop to mount tires on these wheels. In the process of searching for a shop to mount a tire on my spare wheel, I heard many accounts of these wheels coming apart. I am sufficiently scared of them that I want them off my truck. I need help determining what will work as replacements. I would like to get plain steel wheels. Here are the dimensions: 8 lugs on a 6-1/2" bolt circle, 4-3/4" hub hole, 4-1/8" offset, lugs holes are countersunk. My wheels are 17", but I would consider 16.5" or 16". Should I go with bias ply or radials? What size? (The tires on the truck are 33" diameter, and with a 4.86 rear gear, I don't want to let the tire diameter get smaller).

 

Just find some 73-79 f-250 wheels they will bolt on and accept radial tires. We have 245/85/16 on our '78 ford F-250. That 85 should be the same as the 7.50 17 diameter.

 

jUST FIND A TIRE SHOP THAT HANDLES STRICTLY "BIG TRUCKS" ...AS IN THE 18 WHEELER VARITY. I SWEAR TO GOD ...THEY WON'T EVEN BTA AN EYELASH AT IT....YOU'LL BE IN & OUT IN NOTHING FLAT! I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM, AND IT WASN'T UNTILL I STARTED DRIVING BIG TRUCKS PROFESSOINALLY THAT I NOTICED THAT THEY HAD THE SAME KIND OF RIMS AS THE ONES ON MY '59 FORD (WHICH NOBODY'D TOUCH, AND I FINALLY SWITCHED TO THE MORE MODERN TYPE BECAUSE NOBODY'D CHANGE 'EM FOR ME) BUT AT LEAST NOW YOU KNOW WHAT TO DO, EH?

 

I have decided to part ways with my 17" two piece wheels. I replaced them with some steel wheels from an 80's era F-250. The tubular tires from Coker are nearly new, so I would like to remove them from the wheels to sell them. I aired them down while mounted to the truck, and now I have the wheels off the truck. What is the technique for separating the wheel halves? Anyone interested in the wheels? They can be seen on my truck in my gallery

 

You basically stick a pry bar in the slot of the rim and pry towards the centre of the rim.

 

I have the same problem. My truck is either a 3/4 ton or a 1 ton 1948, Canadian version, can't really find out what... I have those same split rims, and all of the accompanying problems.

I tried the F250 8 bolt 16", and it fits on the front, but not over the huge drums on the back. There seems to be nothing else in 17" with the 8 bolt, except a new Dodge 17" 8 bolt, but it is 7 1/2" wide, and is too wide for the truck's suspension.

So... I have found a guy at a big truck tire place who will put the tires on...now, where to find tires. I am going to run 7.00 x 17 all around, as I don't expect to drive the truck more than a few weeks a year, certainly not in the Canadian winter. Any thoughts on tires???

 

I'm not sure about 1948, but for 1952 the 3/4 ton truck (F2) had rear shocks and the 1 ton (F3, which Ford called a 3/4 ton heavy duty) did not. Though, they were an option on the F3. That may provide a clue.

Regarding tires, Coker has a lot of tires in that size. They offer tubeless radial, tubeless bias ply, and tube bias ply. They are all pricey. I have a set of them for my truck. The previous owner bought them for my truck for $800. I am going to sell them if I can separate them from the wheels. No luck on that yet.

 

Hi. saw these posts for f3 wheels. Mine has 17" wheels with a drop ring. Sometimes referred as split ring, but is different. That is what the army has, but its similar. all 5 of mine have them and I would have changed yours if I had the chance. All you need is a prybar or tire tool as in the army tool cribs. deflate tires while on the truck, pull valve insert. remove tire. Now there is no way for ring to flyoff, no pressure. I press around the tire with my foot and if need be use a little lube. sometimes a 12lb hammer or mallet will collapse the bead. Once tire has collapsed, work up ring with tire tool. Now tube and flap can be replced. Check the ring for burrs, weakness. I have seen some that needed welding reinforcment because of improper installation/removal. Follow book to reseating ring, easy. if it sat right, the ring will be on without any overlap. Now the part that scares everybody. To inflate, use a cage with extension hose, that is the safest way. I just lay flat on ring side and inflate a few pounds with bike pump. I fthe tube is sitting right, i go ahead and inflate enough to roll tires on truck and lug them up. You can finish with bike pump or mecahnical pump. These tires are as safe as any other if treated with respect, experience, etc. I changed army splitrims for 20 years and never had a problem when I followed the safety guidelines. And those were true splitring wheels, this f-3 has a solid ring. Heck if constructed right, these tube tires will last years without problems. But if I were going highway i might use something different. Just to go around the block an to stay original i'd use these.

 

Also to mention if you need wheels that will fit a f3, and over the back hubs, get the 8bolt army wheels that were used on cucv's and pickups and some 3/4 ton trailers in the army. Should be plenty at a salvage place. They take a 16 rim. The trie used on the army wheels were often cooper 16's I think 285-16 something. They are about as big as the 17's. Only problem, original hubcaps wont fit, those go inside rim, these wheels accept caps that go over lug center area, not in. Perhaps a adapter. What will fit is the deep dogdish ford caps used on later fords