Well, I almost pulled the trigger on a brand new truck. I decided to wait until I got home from our early season archery hunt. I realized that my truck gets thrashed on the old logging roads and decided to keep my 2003 f350. My truck has been a decent vehicle; however,I have been getting injector balance codes for cylinders 2,4,5,7, and 8. I have gone through the entire truck minus head studs. I put some revX in the truck last oil change and am still getting the codes. I did the injector buzz test and it buzzed as if nothing was wrong? The truck is taking a bit longer to start on early mornings when it’s cold and I do see some white smoke upon start up. The truck runs a bit sluggish when it’s cold (always has over the 12 years I owned the truck), but when it warms up, it’s fine. The rough idle goes away once it’s warm. The truck has always ran a bit on the hot side so I did the blue wire mod.

So here’s my question, I’m definitely changing the injectors out (OEM Ford), but should I replace the hpop too? I’m also going to change out the water pump since it has always ran hot. I see temps on tuner pro up to 215 on warm days when pulling a large hill with no TT behind me. After I pull a long hill, temps come back down to the 190's. My deltas are +/- 4 deg when not towing and between 7-12 with my TT up long hills. I’ve owned the truck for 12 years. It has 170k miles, runs great and T.P. Shows me good psi from the hpop. I figure I will also refresh the turbo if I do the hpop and branch tube. I’m considering just doing the injectors, but I’ve read that the hpop is a weak link on the 03 and 04s.

Thank You for the replies!

 

What in the world is making you want to change out branch tubes at 170k miles?

 

The biggest problem with the '03 HPOP is getting a good rebuilt one. So far, with 135/75k, my HPOPs have been fine, and so have some other '03 members up to 250k from what I've seen. But there are definitely people who lose them earlier than that, and of course, it's with no warning. If you are going to replace it, my personal favorite is CNCFab, although DieselSite is highly recommended, too, at a higher cost.

The injectors should last longer than that if the fuel and filters have been taken care of. If you are monitoring, you didn't mention FICM voltage. However, both the monitored power board can be at fault (lower voltage) and the logic side, which is not monitored. Two things you could do is check the FICM plugs for contact, and also send your FICM to Circuit Board Medics, who will check your FICM to see if it's healthy. They also repair them for a good price and have a good rep. If original, it's a seven-screw, which I have an opinion may be better. But if damaged, you'd probably get a four-screw back.

But that being said, since you are not the original owner, and depending on when the '03 was built, it might be time for the injectors to be replaced. Earlier '03 trucks had injectors that were more problematic than, I believe, those after April '03.

Running a little hotter might be if the T/S is original and if you've never cleaned your heat exchanger stack (Radiator to trans cooler). Based on what you've said, I don't see the temperatures as much of a concern. The differential between oil and cooler is good. An '03 with an original oil cooler would have one less plate compared to what was being sold, so when towing the differential will get a little more spread.

If you get hyper about the oil cooler, you could backflush with water and air with the water pump removed to clear any debris that can clog the intake port.

 

After 7 years of having this a 05 in the family, I've been through the HPO system multiple times.
The biggest problem so far has been top injector o rings failing, and stand pipe o rings.
Last November Thanksgiving week, I replaced all 8 injectors with new, not rebuilt, from injectors direct. I also replaced standpipes with Ford from a local stealership. Then I purchased the upgraded nipples from HHC diesel that are supposed to keep any HP oil away from the top injector seals. They are expensive, but worth it
I also used the HHC diesel nipple seals and their tool to install them.
All I have to say is so far, so good, knock on wood.

 

When my time comes, this is the direction I believe I will go as well.

 

I think my terminology is off regarding the branch tubes. I was considering replacing the curved tube that goes on the HPOP, that is if I need to replace my HPOP. Maybe this tube is called something else?

When I purchased my truck 12 years ago, I sent my FICM into FICM repair and had the fix done and also had the 40hp Atlas tune. I got a Sinister coolant filtration kit, blue spring mod, new oil cooler, EGR delete, and a test pipe to remove the cat (mainly because of the recent catalytic converter thefts going on today).

My FICM voltage runs at 48v. Occasionally I have seen it dip to 47 for a millisecond; however, the FICM voltage pretty much lives at 48. I will keep a closer watch on it to confirm. IF my memory serves me correctly, there is a sticky around that shows you how to verify the FICM is healthy, right? I also remember hearing about an upgraded alternator to ensure sufficient voltage for the 6.0 system which I may do.

I am planning on getting the upgraded water pump with the billet impeller to address any cooling issues. I’m hoping this will help my EOT’s. My delta’s are only +/- 4 deg on average. It’ just gets hot on long hills not towing anything. My transmission temps run about 176 when towing my TT up long hills. I never see temps past 180 deg. The T/S may be need to be cleaned, I’ve never cleaned this before. How do you clean the heat exchanger you are speaking of? I wonder if a transmission cooler would be a good addition to my truck.

I recently changed my coolant as it’s been 4 years since I changed it. I was shocked to see the sediment in the coolant filter! That led me to do a coolant flush and then the oil cooler back flush. I filled the system with Rotella ELC. Wondering if I should use some Redline water weter in the system or not. I know the Fords are really finicky, so I am a bit apprehensive about using the Redline product in my truck.

My HPOP shows good pressures on torque pro, I’m just a bit concerned about the longevity of the HPOP. By reading this post, I may hold off on replacing it for a few years.

53jimc, when you had problems with the top injector O rings failing and standpipe o rings which brands were you using? I’ve been told only to use Ford OEM injectors and wonder if you were using rebuilt or off-brand injectors when you had problems? Where did you get the upgraded nipples and tool, HHC diesel I assume? Is there a youtube video and/or torque sequence for this procedure? I might include this repair as I like to do a job only once. Learned that lesson with the 6.0 with my oil cooler L Diesel site that sold a “bulletproof kit” with an oil cooler that had a crappy oil cooler gasket that disintegrated over 2 years and causes me problems. Was not happy. I am having some challenges finding the upgraded standpipes and dummy plugs for the 2003’s. Does anyone know where to find these items?



Thank you all for the help!

 

The tube you are referring to is the J-tube (or HPOP discharge tube), not the branch tubes (the branch tubes pretty much require the heads to be off).

There is no way for us average 6.0L owners to actually "fully test" a FICM. It must be sent to a facility that has that ability. I know FICMRepair.com does. CircuitBoardMedics.com claim they do also, but I do not know specifically what they mean by that.

 

When an 03 HPOP gets replaced, the J tube should be as well.

 

Thank you!

 

I have always used the alliance (I think that's the brand) injector seals and the existing injectors, which were a mismatch set. When I bought the truck they said they replaced all the injectors, right. I've been in the HPO system on that truck more times than I want to remember. Have been through a few iterations of installing rebuilts, but finally bit the bullet for new.


I was under the impression the alliance seals were good, but I went through three sets of them before deciding on trying the HHC upgraded nipples combined with new injectors.

Each time I had used the HHC nipple seals and had used replacement china bomb nipples so finally took off my dunce cap and went HHC all the way.

There's a full explanation of what happens to the top injector o rings in the tech section. If any HPO gets past the nipple seals it shoots directly onto the injector top seal. It'll run fine for a couple months, then comes the hard start hot, then hard start cold, then no start. The HPO will finally eat through one of the top injector seals then no more HPO.

The HHC upgraded nipples have a deflecting hood made into them that diverts any leaking oil away from the seals. If you go that route, injectors direct has new injectors and they have been great to work with. Yes, HHC has the upgraded nipples and seals and the install tool.

Also, I'm not sure how common the parts are '03 vs '05, so YMMV.

Good luck!

Anyway, been almost a year. It may fail tomorrow, but it's been a nice year so far not having to work on it.

 

I have been looking at my IPR values. I see 1v @ 26% at cold startup. The other thing I remember is that my IPR @ WOT when towing my RV is 83%. Is this ok or should I be looking somewhere else for possible problems? My truck has 170K miles on it and it starts every time. I have noticed that over the past few years, the truck does not have the power it used to have which is why I was thinking I might need injectors?

Any thoughts?