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Truck has around 170k now, cold start/stiction symptoms for a very long time drives and tows fine once warm. Had it tested over the summer after noticable loss of power while towing and found 4 bad injectors. Loss of power was just some turbo leaks and blown CAC boot. Plan was to do the work over the winter, ready to order parts now.
Originally I considered rebuilding/cleaning them all. On the other hand I've gotten a lot of miles off them so Ford remans or something else?
What is the consensus 2 bad injectors on each side, do all of them or just the 4?
Dummy plugs/stand pipes done long ago under warranty work. Should I replace those again?
Truck has around 170k now, cold start/stiction symptoms for a very long time drives and tows fine once warm. Had it tested over the summer after noticable loss of power while towing and found 4 bad injectors. Loss of power was just some turbo leaks and blown CAC boot. Plan was to do the work over the winter, ready to order parts now.
Originally I considered rebuilding/cleaning them all. On the other hand I've gotten a lot of miles off them so Ford remans or something else?
What is the consensus 2 bad injectors on each side, do all of them or just the 4?
Dummy plugs/stand pipes done long ago under warranty work. Should I replace those again?
How about the fuel line crossover mod?
Anything else I'm forgetting?
Please post which 4 injectors (and post code numbers if you have them).
Testing showed misfiring cold on 2,3,6,7. No codes just seems to be getting more and more noticeable over time. There is a stumble at idle now, but I think my alternator is needing to be replaced again as the voltage is pulsing quite a bit with lights on. Not sure if that could contribute. Ficm volts are good, batteries strong as well.
Was using revx for a long time and it definitely made a difference. Due for oil change, is it with trying again or is it time to just do the injectors?
Also seems like some people are not recommending t6 anymore. Which oil then?
Testing showed misfiring cold on 2,3,6,7. No codes just seems to be getting more and more noticeable over time. There is a stumble at idle now, but I think my alternator is needing to be replaced again as the voltage is pulsing quite a bit with lights on. Not sure if that could contribute. Ficm volts are good, batteries strong as well.
Was using revx for a long time and it definitely made a difference. Due for oil change, is it with trying again or is it time to just do the injectors?
Also seems like some people are not recommending t6 anymore. Which oil then?
Without codes, how was the testing done to determine it was those particular cylinders? I'm guessing IDS? It's also curious because 2/3 and 6/7 are each on a different leg of the FICM and opposite of each other on the block.
And FWIW, a pulsing alternator could indicate that you're getting AC current into your electrical system, which can damage your electronics.
Without codes, how was the testing done to determine it was those particular cylinders? I'm guessing IDS? It's also curious because 2/3 and 6/7 are each on a different leg of the FICM and opposite of each other on the block.
And FWIW, a pulsing alternator could indicate that you're getting AC current into your electrical system, which can damage your electronics.
Testing done with IDS at a local shop. I'm not sure what you are getting at about different legs of the FICM with those injectors. Something with the FICM or wiring?
So far haven't noticed any other electrical problems, no blown bulbs or anything like that. Had to replace the blend door actuator last week from no heat though. Definitely getting the alternator replaced (again) under warranty. I didn't realize the pulsing could indicate ac current and just thought the regulator was failing. Do you think it will show on my multimeter?
It can be either a VR or Diodes. To do a diode check for AC, set up the voltmeter like you would read DC off the battery or alternator, then switch to AC. There always is some AC present.
The FICM has two power sides and they power different injectors. When a group of injectors goes bad from one side of the FICM/harness, it's a tell to first check the connectors. You're on both legs/sides.
I'm not saying those injectors aren't bad, but the power balance graph can be difficult to accurately read on opposing cylinders as yours are. It depends on the experience of the technician, IMHO. Those 4 may not be putting out as much "umph" as the other 4 but that doesn't mean they're totally bad either. To me, personally, bad is not working at all; dead, kaput, finito. I tend to replace injectors one at a time, depending on age, but if I was in your shoes and I was going to replace injectors, it would be the whole set, considering mileage and age of your truck. I think you'd be money and time ahead at this point.
AFA the FICM goes, I don't think that you would lose just 2 cylinders at a time from one plug of the FICM, it would be all 4. It's just kind of strange that they're "in pairs" like they are.
It can be either a VR or Diodes. To do a diode check for AC, set up the voltmeter like you would read DC off the battery or alternator, then switch to AC. There always is some AC present.
The FICM has two power sides and they power different injectors. When a group of injectors goes bad from one side of the FICM/harness, it's a tell to first check the connectors. You're on both legs/sides.
Now that you mention it I should have realized that about the ac and diodes. It's getting replaced regardless, the pulsing is pretty ridiculous at night. Not so noticeable with the headlights while driving but with the cabin lights on and dash is pretty bad
Also thanks for explaining that about the legs of the FICM
I'm not saying those injectors aren't bad, but the power balance graph can be difficult to accurately read on opposing cylinders as yours are. It depends on the experience of the technician, IMHO. Those 4 may not be putting out as much "umph" as the other 4 but that doesn't mean they're totally bad either. To me, personally, bad is not working at all; dead, kaput, finito. I tend to replace injectors one at a time, depending on age, but if I was in your shoes and I was going to replace injectors, it would be the whole set, considering mileage and age of your truck. I think you'd be money and time ahead at this point.
AFA the FICM goes, I don't think that you would lose just 2 cylinders at a time from one plug of the FICM, it would be all 4. It's just kind of strange that they're "in pairs" like they are.
Would it be so bad if I just kept using the truck? Change the oil and put revx or archoil in and just go until an injector fails? I don't really have any experience to relate to with this to determine when to replace them. On the other hand I don't like thinking about when that failure moment might be and thought it could be a good way to prevent that. You guys know more about this than I do, plus if it's too soon to replace them I will gladly wait, so many other projects right now
My first thought was air bleeding over to affect the performance of adjacent injectors, but none of those numbers are adjacent on the oil rails. It is an odd combination. And I don't think it would even start with 4 bad injectors. There's something wrong, but a real possibility that not all those injectors are bad.
If you got more time than money, for the price of some copper washers and o-rings, you could swap 2 and 6 for 4 and 8 to see if the problem migrates with them. If not, forget about injectors for now. Definitely check those FICM connections. And check the FICM voltages before you first crank it in the morning and for the first few minutes until it warms up, not while you're driving down the freeway. It'd be easy to throw a known-good FICM on there too, to eliminate all that.
My first thought was air bleeding over to affect the performance of adjacent injectors, but none of those numbers are adjacent on the oil rails. It is an odd combination. And I don't think it would even start with 4 bad injectors. There's something wrong, but a real possibility that not all those injectors are bad.
If you got more time than money, for the price of some copper washers and o-rings, you could swap 2 and 6 for 4 and 8 to see if the problem migrates with them. If not, forget about injectors for now. Definitely check those FICM connections. And check the FICM voltages before you first crank it in the morning and for the first few minutes until it warms up, not while you're driving down the freeway. It'd be easy to throw a known-good FICM on there too, to eliminate all that.
Thanks I will keep an eye on FICM volts at start, check the connections back there tomorrow when I replace the alternator and probably just keep running for now.
I like the idea of moving the injectors. To keep the longevity of your engine you should repair the issues you are finding instead of waiting for a catastrophic failure.
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