When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The original spot for the large ground cable on a v8 is a bolt hole on the very front corner of the block on the pass side. It's going to be hidden underneath the alternator or something like that on a v8. On the 300 six, I believe they did go directly to the starter housing. Either one will work, since the starter is bolted to the engine block. The frame is not as important, a smaller wire to the frame will suffice in case you have anything tied to it for a ground. But the power hog is the starter. So it needs priority as far as current demand goes. The engine and transmission are mounted in rubber mounts. So putting the large cable on the frame doesn't do much good for the starter.
Ok, so it is in the factory location but for the sake of that the stock location not grounding properly I will relocate to the starter. I did tap a chassis ground from the negative terminal to the fender on a small wire for chassis ground so by connecting the starter ground itll do both right there, it actually improved cranking by a miniscule amount doing that as well. Still going to have to check timing since its slowing under ignition especially with fuel in the cylinders on crank, is retard clockwise or counter clockwise on fords I don't remember. I might as well throw on the new icm if I am touching the distributor, just need to find my paint pen. After all that its rear brakes, getting the prop valve centered, and finishing fuel system. Still need to figure out cab heating for the winter as well, dont think hvac will be up any time soon. I'll message back if or if not it works and go from there.
Ive only got $2 to my name till i get my first paycheck...
I got till monday to get it running and tested to ensure itll survive an hour drive twice daily at minimum.
On a practical level, I wonder if you'd be better off in the short term to arrange a backup transportation plan. It seems this poor truck is going to take a lot of work to be a reliable driver. While it certainly can be accomplished, it's quite the Quixotic task given the short time frame and temporary budget set-back. This online remote troubleshooting is typically a very slow process, and not exactly suited to your current situation. That's why I'd suggest taking a little pressure off yourself and coming up with a Plan B for now.
I live at least an hour 30 from any nearby friends, and uber costs $40/mile, and its about 50-60 miles to the job, and an hour drive. I cant afford another vehicle, this is the only one that was cheap enough I could afford it, and I still have spent less than a working car to fix it, approximately $2,500 total. But the battery cable I have is 10" too short from the starter, so I need a quick hackjob fix to get extra reach if anyone has any ideas.
Just in case, I am going to pull the starter and check if its bound up. Also, for sake of sanity, are these installed right? Primarily the power lead is the question. There is no reason the ground side is dropping this bad especially now that its been relocated onto the housing and goes straight to the battery. All other voltage drops are perfext, Verified engine turns over, so not sure what else could go wrong.
So while bench testing the starter, I hooked up the voltmeter to the battery for ****s and giggles. Sits at 12.2v idle, when jumping the starter, sparks a little, and drops to 1-2v and slowly recharges its self back up to 12.2v. Doesn't even try to spin. So how about that fried battery theory?
The hook up looks good. What motor we working on?
Besides the ground going from battery to the starter bolt do you have a cable going from the motor somewhere to the frame?
On the 300 six the factory ground went from battery to a spot on the top of the frame rail then on to the starter bolt.
There is also a 10ga wire from the motor to the firewall so the body is grounded.
If the motor / trans, frame and body are grounded you should not have any issues if the connections are good.
If the starter is not even trying to spin or bendix popping out then that new starter is NFG!
Do you have another battery to try the starter on?
I guess the battery could be NFG also but ???
It would be nice if you could take bather battery and starter to the store and have them tested.
Do you still have the old starter maybe test that like you did this one.
Dave ----
The hook up looks good. What motor we working on?
Besides the ground going from battery to the starter bolt do you have a cable going from the motor somewhere to the frame?
On the 300 six the factory ground went from battery to a spot on the top of the frame rail then on to the starter bolt.
There is also a 10ga wire from the motor to the firewall so the body is grounded.
If the motor / trans, frame and body are grounded you should not have any issues if the connections are good.
If the starter is not even trying to spin or bendix popping out then that new starter is NFG!
Do you have another battery to try the starter on?
I guess the battery could be NFG also but ???
It would be nice if you could take bather battery and starter to the store and have them tested.
Do you still have the old starter maybe test that like you did this one.
Dave ----
Took battery and starter into autozone, starter passed, battery failed with a cca of 15a. No bueno. I did make a battery to chassis ground that shares the engine ground so thats all good too. Its a 351w as well. No other battery, old starter is split in half so no testing it, there might be a ground still to the motor from the old cable as well but not looking anymore. After pulling the tank straps with a tiny ratchet to replace them I am worn out. I do know frame and body are grounded for certain though as well and those all check out and are corrosion free on the mounts. Got the battery replaced now, so tomorrow its brakes and throwing it all back together.
Yea 15 CCA on battery is not good and bet the cause of all the running around with testing and getting bad reading
Good on the grounds. I was thinking a bad ground even body can throw off the testing.
Good luck on the rest
Dave ----
So, did replacing the battery fix your starting issue ? Inquiring minds want/need to have completion.
Battery fixed it, but it typical Rye fashion, I put the fuel line on the wrong side so it wasn't getting fuel. Idiot. Anyhow all is well with new battery, 40 year old solenoid, and new cables.
Thanks, I feel much better now, my day is complete. LOL. When I read your last few posts, my mind was thinking you have a bad battery.
Just remember, as I was saying even if a battery reads 12.6v doesn't mean it isnt dead cell. It only loses capacity if it burna off or loses acid. A good warning sign is on cranking the lights in the cab going out, and that is unrelated to anything on the starter side. But the cables were a problem as while removing the negative it broke apart in my hand, so definitely not good. Cranks efficiently every time with little struggles, might still need to adjust timing a little.
Good to hear you got that part fixed hope the rest is all down hill LOL
Dave ----
Too soon man too soon. Yesterday on a test drive I went down potholemanhole ave by accident, took a wrong turn, and the brand new fuel tank dropped out. Drained the bowl, and coasted into a goodwill parking lot. Reattached the tank, and the flex plate showed it was definitely broke from the previous starter debacle, and most likely ate the starter by the sounds I heard. Then while waiting for the tow truck, goodwill called the police on me and I had to explain I broke down and I was waiting for the tow truck. Bad day.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
