Hope it isn't "extra" blue (Sinister)!

 

LOL Mark. You know Jack, I don't remember where I bought it at to tell you the truth. Just where DO you get a part these days that aren't counterfeit? I guess I could get another kit and install it since they are not that expensive.

Remember, about four months ago I was dealing with the crank sensor sync issue and installed another new cranks sensor back then. That issue has not popped back up again since.

So how do I go about testing the injectors and getting information to send to Warren for warranty? Or do I yank then and send them back to Warren? Thanks, B.

 

I don't have that good of memory, I didn't recall that. I'll have to go back and read it. Did you simply not scan for a cranking rpm value, or did you look for that value and one isn't being reported by the PCM?

A "no rpm signal" also might be a crank sensor wiring/connector issue (ie not the sensor again). That said, was it an OEM sensor? If the PCM does not have a good rpm signal, the engine will not start. Only sure way to know if the PCM see a good rpm signal, is if you can verify good cranking rpm value (150 rpm and up) from a PCM PID on your scan tool.

Where you get parts DOES matter..... a lot. Please don't just dismiss (or take casually) the advice to stay OEM because it is inconvenient or expensive.

You get parts from online dealerships to get the best prices. Auto Nation White Bear lake is one of the best. There are others, like Tasca. If you do enough local dealership business the parts guts will give you a 15% discount typically. Still, I have found that the online dealerships usually have the best total p[rice (have to include shipping costs and taxes), but not always. Obviously buying parts locally is usually the quickest way. Using FordParts.com is cheaper than paying full price at the counter and often times quick. Usually you can get a 10 -15% discount using that system.

We have seen Sinister "blue spring" fuel pressure regulator kits fail. We have seen a bunch of cheap (advertised OEM) sensors and actuators fail.

EDIT - I found your other thread. I guess you have installed a few new crank sensors. That to me sure makes the wiring or connector more of a likely candidate.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-gremlins.html

 

Bruce, I wouldn't worry about the fuel pressure right now; at this pressure, it's not your starting issue. Or the injectors.

You really need to get the scope reading on your crank signal. After reading your old thread in combination, I'm starting to get worried your crank tone ring may have been bent or loosened during its rework. That will cause a poor, inconsistent rpm reading. That's happened to a few people in the past. Make sure you have an OE crank sensor!

 

Mark/Jack, the last time I changed the crank I for sure used a OEM part. I believe I got it from ficm repair but don't quote me on that. The cam sensor I just replaced is an OEM sensor I DID buy from ficm repair. As far as RPM's go during cranking when it won't fire, I did not take note of that data. Sorry. Right now it is starting just fine and running normally. So trying to get the RPM data during a no start is out of the question for now.

The crank tone ring, I guess I cam pop the crank sensor out and turn it over by hand using a bore scope to inspect the tines. That would rule that out.

I'm fairly certain I have a bad wire, pin, or connector issue at this point due to the randomness of the issue. So that means, I need to find time to pull things apart and inspect it again. It could still be an IPR issue I guess, so I will pull it and inspect as well. So, for now I am going to focus on an electrical issue and try and chase that down. I will report back as soon as I have more. Thanks guys. B.

 

P.S.

I could also take it to a dealer and have then scope out the crank and cam sensors to make sure they are doing what they are supposed too. What do you think? Pay an hour of tech labor? B.

 

I wouldn't bother doing it if it's running fine.

 

When was the last time you cleared your codes? Meaning: is that code new or was it from awhile ago and it's just now showing up because you scanned it?

I can't see how your Injectors, IPR, or Fuel Pressure would cause that code. I also am not convinced that code is the cause of your no-start, because you still have CAM/CRANK SYNC and FICM sync when it happens(or did I read incorrectly?).

Why did the guys at FICM repair think you have a few injectors that are bad?

-jokester

 

It's been two years since you replaced the fuel filters, and you're thinking it's a problem with the fuel pump?

​​​​​​​Two years ago I dropped the fuel tank to remove the pieces of the demolished pick-up foot, blew out the fuel lines, replaced the HFCM with one that was only a few years old, and installed the blue spring. A couple months ago I replaced the HFCM again, along with filters. My FP at idle is 58 and drops to 53 at WOT. In the winter its 62 at idle. Sound familiar? My money is on the blue springs which are probably being made at a different Ford vendor than they historically had been, like somewhere in China. I've decided when my FP starts dropping next time I'll be upgrading to a regulated return and not worrying about it anymore.

 

My previous 6.0L was having intermittent starting issues when the engine was at operating temps. I found if I waited 10-15 minutes it would start every time. I don't recall getting any codes or if FICM sync was a problem, but it never happened again after the FICM was rebuilt.

 

I cleared all codes after I changed the Cam sensor a week ago. So it returning a few days later was new. FicmRepair just "Feels" it is three or more injectors going bad because they are Warrens. I'm not going to be changing injectors on a "Feeling". My fuel pressures are in the normal range. Despite having a blue spring upgrade. So maybe I got a bad blue spring last time I changed it two years ago. IDK. I might change it again. Will see.

I think I have a bad connection somewhere or a bad wire that is making intermittent contact. So I am going to focus on that right now. As soon as I can find a day off. It's brutal working for multiple companies this time of the year. My FICM and ECM are both FicmRepair units. I DO have a spare factory ECM that I swapped in the other day after I had it towed home. But, Like I said, It started as soon as the tow was was complete and BEFORE I did any swapping or clearing of codes. B.

 

Electrics are always a PITA.

 

@@@@@@ UPDATE @@@@@@

Ok, Since I last posted I have started my truck in the morning and afternoons when I get home from work at least 25 to 30 times. She starts and runs normally each time. But I have not been driving her. So today, I took her for a drive down a poorly maintained county gravel road with lots of pot holes (LOL). I bounced the old girl around quite a bit. The engine never missed a beat. IF I have a loose connection or a shorting wire somewhere it should have acted up today during my drive. But she ran as smooth as ever.

I have NOT yet removed the main engine harness for a full inspection as I'm just now starting to get some weekends off. So I may still do that in the near future. The ONLY thing that is different between now and when she had to be towed home is the ECM. I have left the "Factory" ECM installed since that faithful day. I am going to start driving it to work again to my "day" job, which is only a 12 mile commute, so if she does take a dump on me again the tow won't kill me. Have a great Turkey day everyone. B.

 

While it's rare to have PCM issues with these trucks, nothing is 100% or Bulletproof. A component or solder failure within the PCM can act the same as a harness issue, which is seen more often.

 

Agreed Jack. I'm sure the harness, being 18 years old, prolly has a few dings and dents. I WILL inspect it though soon. I gave it a real going over when I had the engine out, but that was nearly 10k miles ago. Things change. Oh what fun we have. B.