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I haven't had a chance to really give it a really good look at. I plan to pull it, well not quite pull it, more like lift the back end up with my forklift and tow it into my shop. Glad it decided to take a dump in my driveway, close to my shop.
One other thing that could be the problem, the clutch disc hub has been known to be too long and contacts the front of the throw out bearing sleeve. You did say that you changed the disc, it might be the wrong one.
Well, I think I found my problem. I pulled the transmission cover off and opened the inspection cover off and saw the throwout bearing hub spring detached. I then pulled the transmission out. What a PIA. I've pulled the transmission out of my panel truck some years back an it as fairly easy but the F-2 transmission is a little more of a beast to get out. Fellow FTE Craig Hahn came over and helped pull it out using two nylon slings and a 2x6, I then pulled the clutch pressure plate and disc out and found the disc came apart dispersing two springs, one jamming under the pressure plate and one jamming under one of the fingers of the pressure plate. An added bonus something also took a chunk of clutch cast bellhousing out. I have another one and I order a new clutch kit.
After our 200 mile round trip a couple of weeks ago when the vibration started, as we pulled into the drive I heard metallic bang noise. I think that was when whatever let loose blew through the bellhousing.
Well at least you now know! When you put it back together, be sure and lightly schmeer some moly based lube on that dry looking input shaft. Use an old toothbrush, and give it a light coat. Is it a bushing or sealed bearing in the end of the crank? If it has not been changed, now is the time. Bushings are fine- they do need some grease packed in behind though.
Well at least you now know! When you put it back together, be sure and lightly schmeer some moly based lube on that dry looking input shaft. Use an old toothbrush, and give it a light coat. Is it a bushing or sealed bearing in the end of the crank? If it has not been changed, now is the time. Bushings are fine- they do need some grease packed in behind though.
I installed a bearing, my dad never liked bushings. He was a good mechanic.
Not an easy job. I have to admit I didn't plan it too well. I towed in from the rear into my shop so it was facing toward the back of the shop about six feet from the wall on the passenger side. I should have towed back into the shop with the room to get my fork lift forks through the passenger side of the cab. We ended up muscling it in with a long pipe and some straps and then later a chain bolted to the top of the transmission. Also, one big help was I made two long guide out of to 3/8" bolts. I cut off the heads and beveled the ends so we could line up two top holes of the hogshead and slide it in. Worked out pretty good.
First of all I want to thank all you guys for your input while I was trying to sort this issue out. Turns out I was able to find a friction disc on e-bay that looked exactly like the original that came out of my tranny. However, when it arrived it looked like the one I ordered previously that didn't work. Called the seller and he conferred in-house and stated that the one they sent was the one Ford has been using from '48-mid 60s. After calming down a bit I performed a closer inspection and found that although it looked like the last one (five springs in a stamped hub vs. eight springs in a machined fit) the fly wheel side did not extend beyond the face of the disc (just like my original). Installed and tranny shifts just fine. Kudos to Midwest Early Ford in Springfield, Ohio. Now on to more stripping and painting.
I wanted to install new as much as possible when I rebuilt the engine earlier this year, I didn't want to have to tear the truck apart later to replace the 40 year old clutch I had in the truck (well, that worked out, didn't it?) so I looked for a new clutch kit. I couldn't find one anywhere but I just happened to mention to the O'riellys counter guy what I was looking for and he was able to find a kit on their company system. He gave me the part number. I called the manufacturer to verify the part number and he told me they made all of the clutches for most, if not all of the auto parts stores and just private labeled them for the each store. I wanted a good quality product so I read here and other boards that Van Pelts was the place to go for quality. I think their website had a listing for like $100 more. I was willing to pay more if I could get a better part. I called them and asked where they get there clutches and without being real specific he told me they were imported. Probably the same company. If you look at the disc I removed it's probably the same as yours. I had to go back to O'Riellys again because I my local NAPA wasn't a big help, they said they didn't have a listing and when I gave them the O'Riellys number to cross reference their system brought up a completely different part. I hope this new kit will last more than a 1000 miles.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
