i recently pulled the engine out of my 72 f100. got the work done to it that i needed and when i put it back in and bolted it up the transmission will not go back into gear. it will grind when i try to put it in reverse and will not go into 1,2, or 3. if i turn off the engine it will go into a gear but not while running. anyone got any suggestions? the tranny was fine before i took out the engine. and i have checked the fluid. it is good.

 

is this an automatic or a 3speed??

 

Check clutch linkage. Maybe forgot to reconnect clutch fork. Or needs adjustment.

 

Yup bingo check that out first. Rusbukt got a laugh out off your signature.

 

it is a 3 speed. what is the clutch linkage,how do i check the clutch linkage, and how to u adjust it. im not very intelligent when it comes to a clutch or transmission.

 

On the drivers side of transmission. There is an arm sticking out of the side of the transmission (bell house). Sticks out about 4 inches more or less. That is the clutch fork. There should be a few metal parts (linkages) that connect the clutch fork up to you clutch pedal. Check them first.
When you push in the clutch pedal the clutch fork will move backwards and disengage the clutch allowing you to shift into gear.
If linkages no hook up you no go.
Have someone in the truck(while it is not running) push down on the clutch just so you can see how it operates.

 

yeah i looked at all that today and its hooked up. my son pushes the clutch and the clutch fork goes backwards and the spring brings it back forward. everything worked fine before the engine removal. i jacked up the rearend and put it up on jack stands and i can hold the shifter against 1st 2nd and 3rd and the rear wheel turns and grinds when i hold it against reverse. is there something where the tranny mates with the engine where the clutch is that could be wrong?

 

The throwout bearing needs to be properly engaged with the clutch fork, also the pilot shaft lubricated.

 

how do i properly engage the throwout bearings with the clutch fork

 

if everything looks good with the linkages..you are probably going to have to bite the bullet and pull engine back out or drop the tranny and see what is going on since it did work prior to you having the engine repaired. it is proabably the throwout bearing or the pilot bushing is not lined up properly.

 

There is only one throwout (T/O) bearing. The end of the clutch fork is shaped like the letter C which fits around the T/O bearing's collar.

Is the clutch properly adjusted? The clutch adjustment rod attaches to the equalizer (Z) bar, the pointed end of this rod (it's a separate piece) fits into a "dimple" in the clutch fork. By threading the rods pointed end in/out adjusts the clutch.

You failed to mention the engine size. On some engines, there are two dowel pins that are used to align the transmission to the engine. Failure to have these dowel pins in place will mean that the engine is not aligned properly which will lead to a vibration which will eventually tear the center out of the flywheel. It may also be a partial cause of your shifting problem.

There are two shift rods from the two manual control levers on the transmission that attach to the two manual control selector levers at the bottom of the steering column. In each steering column selector lever is a bushing and insulator. If these parts are missing, worn or broken, the shift lever will hang up in gear, or won't move at all.

Replacing the bushings/insulators solves the problem. The parts come in a kit, one kit does both selector levers, and the kit is still available from Ford: C5TZ7343A.

There are other factors. Worn/missing nylon bushings (there are two-C1AA7543A) used on the inside of the Z bar. There are two clutch pivots, one mounted on the frame, the other on the engine. One each of these bushings fits onto the pivots. If the Z bar doesn't have these bushings, it will sit at an angle, meaning the clutch adjustment rod will be mis-aligned.

There are 2 more bushings (COAZ7526B) on the 90 degree ends of the clutch rod from the E-bar to the clutch pedal bellcrank under the dash. If these bushing are missing, sooner or later the 90 ends will begin to bend, then snap off.

All of these nylon bushings are available from Ford.

Locking the barn after the horse is stolen: When taking things apart, photos or video taken at the time of dis-assembly greatly adds to the ease of putting everything back in its proper location.

Having the shop manual and/or 1964/72 Ford truck parts catalog illustrations of the entire setup is another plus.

 

where can i find a good vehicle repair manual? all the auto parts stores around here dont have and cant get a manual for the 72 ford...it has a 302 under the hood

 

Chilton's has a repair manual #6913,it covers Ford F100-350 from 1965-1986,im not sure which auto parts stores you have in your area, Kragen used to carry chiltons,not sure if they still do. Dont sell yourself too short,Myboysford,you were intelligent enough to get it dissassembled and put back together,those without intelligence dont know where the engine or transmission are, how to put oil in the engine ,gas in the tank,or air in tires....

 

I'm with ya there good man. I was a genius two days ago when I rebuilt my automatic tranny all by memory. First time.
Then I pulled the valve body apart and the springs and ***** shot everywhere. That's as far as MY intelligence went. Now I'm searching for a book.