We purchased a new F150 six months ago specifically for the 2KW inverter to run our camper. We were hauling a 1.9KW generator and this would take the place of hauling that and extra fuel. It's pretty much been a horror story and Ford has been ridiculously useless.

Anyhow, summary video below and please feel to share or post anywhere you think it may help someone.



Thanks.

 

I'm too lazy to look this us, but some standalone generators are marketed at their "peak power", meaning a 2000W genny can really put out 1800W or so over a longer time, and some are truly capable of putting out the rated amount full time.
How is the Ford one in terms of true capability versus rating?

That 7.4 kw version seems popular in campgrounds I've been to this year. Haven't had much discussion with the owners.

 

Yeah, it's not load related. One, it would trip if it was exceeding rated or peak power. Two, everything tested is well below the rated continuous load. Three, load wouldn't cause the waveforms and frequency to be so far off. Four, as I said in the video, everything runs fine off a lower rated inverter generator.

As far as the other larger Ford inverters, they're apparently doing ok. The 2KW package seems to be the problem child.

Appreciate the response...

 

Hopefully someone with more knowledge than me chimes in. I don't know much about this.

 

Hope you are able to get this resolved and are able to pass the resolution on to us!

 

2000 Watts divided by 115 volts = JUST 17 amps , RV's have a 30 amp shore power cord OR on larger ones a 50 amp cord , You need the larger 7,400 watt unit, Yours is too small ............

 

30a RV : anybody should know a little small OEM inverter on a truck is Not going to run a camper & Especially an Air Conditioner.

it takes a minimum of 3600w Generator to run a RV AC unit.

 

Okay just adding my experience here regarding the Ford Pro Power 2,000 watt system.

Ford's manual states:
"Neutral Floating - The neutral of the inverter generator is isolated from system ground.
Note: If additional grounding measures are required, consult with a qualified electrician."

I am still fuzzy on what a floating neutral is but it seems to present some problems.

Pro Power will not run a DeWalt 14amp portable air compressor. It will not run a 4amp bench grinder. It will run wife's two prong hair dryer which pulls 1,500 watts. It will run two prong car buffer and my 900 watt toaster oven. Almost anything that has hot/neutral/ground plug seems to have a problem.

If I separate the ground from my extension cord, it will provide 300 watts to my Airstream. My Victron inverter, 3,000 watt model, needs me to reduce the input amperage limit to 3 amps. If I tell the inverter to pull more than 3 amps, the inverter faults out. I am assuming this is because the inverter is looking for more watts, but the Pro Power can't give more reliably.

For comparison, it takes my Honda EU2200i generator ~1.5 hours to raise my State of Charge from 50% to 100% at 1,950 watts. If I can only get 300 watts from Pro Power, then I am looking at running my truck ~4.3 hours. In a boondocking scenario I do not have to have 100% SOC. If it is cloudy and I just need some extra help for my solar from the Pro Power then I have a solution that will get me through most of my camping so far. Once the wife retires and we spend more time on the road with hopefully some BLM camping, we will just have to adjust as needed. I do not want to run my truck for hours for so little return on watts generated.

I am disappointed in the advertising of the Pro Power system. Everything has a caveat, but in bigger bolder letters Ford should have said the 2,000 watts Pro Power provides are incredibly limited.

 

The simple fix is to run a 3600watt generator on a front mounted receiver hitch IMO

we toted one last summer up front for our F350 truck camper for 13,135 miles & 43 days on a loop thru Canada & AlaskA

only needed it 2r3 nights but had it if needed.

 

Can you change out the Ford Inverter to an Inverter that will work? I think it's under the rear seat.

 

I don't know. Currently plan on asking a company like Progressive Dynamics if they have a solution. I use their surge/analyzer for my trailer shore power and think they may have a creative solution that may allow the truck to send its electrons for real use and not instantly trip the GFIC. I will post about if I can figure out a solution.

 

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A lot of things to understand.
All your failures involve starting current demands.
The Compressor does not just draw 14 amps running. It can draw almost 50% more on startup depending on how much load s has to overcome.. High power Electric motors do that. They has separate start winding to supply the starting Torque required..
Bench Grinder, same thing. More starting that running. An high power Electric motor again. It has to begin spinning heavy Stones from rest.
.Hair Dryer, Toaster are purely Resistance loads and take very little extra turn-on Current. The difference is the cold Resistance is a bit lower until the Element heats up and rises in value for less Current. They have no use for a Ground lug unless the case is metal and to keep the user safe from electrocution through an outside ground condition...
The Buffer is only a small motor compared to your other big power eaters and in a Plastic case..
Very often owners use these power systems for what they were not intended for and get into difficulties and blame the unit.
When trying to power another location that has commercial power and a third ground, is when the GFI trips.
The third ground has to be switched along with the main leads to become it's own dedicated supply.
If not the truck's monitor know it.
Ford has to be sure no liability can be claimed if the electrical rules and codes are not followed for the use of their Truck systems.
It becomes the responsibility of the user to see to it.
A dealer often is not much help even repairing such systems let alone know all the application usages and hook-ups..
This technology in not just all plug and play any longer. You have to understand!
Good luck.