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I'm looking for Coyote experts. The Ford engine type, not the Wily E. type.
I bought a slightly used 2022 F-150 Coyote engine with a 10R80 transmission out of a wreck, for my 1955 F-100.
I'm trying to figure out the wiring plugs that are encompassed in the positive and negative battery terminal loom. There are bare lugs that are obviously for ground connections.
Then there are two female plugs. The large one is a 20 conductor plug and the small one is a three-conductor plug.
20 conductor plug.
Three conductor plug.
I'm thinking the small one may be for the fan. I'm not sure.
Does anyone have experience with these?
The large computer plugs are easy to figure out where they go.
I have the engine (ECM) or (PCM) that came with it along with the accelerator pedal for the electronic throttle.
I will have the ECM reprogrammed to remove the Pats system, along with whatever else they eliminate. I will probably use a Lund Racing tune.
I know there is a lot that will not be used, I am just trying to figure out what I need and where it goes.
I located the remote battery terminals close to where they were on the 2022, F-150, so I know these plugs were up front.
The ECU has three connections. One for the transmission harness, another for the engine harness and the last one for the body harness.
When you buy a take out engine/transmission , you will usually get the ECU, gas pedal along with the engine and transmission and associated harnesses. You will not get the body harness. That harness has a fuse block, OBDII port, MAF sensor connection, wires for pedal, etc. It also has a connector that plugs into the engine harness. This may be part of what I am missing.
Power by the Hour makes a custom Body Harness for gen 1 and gen 2, but I do not see one listed for a gen 3 engines. I will have to cross that bridge when I get to it.
Right now I am trying to figure out ECU placement and other issues regarding the right inner fender while I wait for my left inner fender to arrive.
Buy a control pack and you'll fire the engine at the end of one day. All of that included wiring that came with your engine is of no real use to you. It's a little expensive but IMO worth the investment. Time is money and while you are researching wire diagrams you could be connecting the 5 wires and firing the engine and working toward finishing your truck. No need for a body control harness or module. Have a gander at the below thread and you'll see how easy the swap really is.
Buy a control pack and you'll fire the engine at the end of one day. All of that included wiring that came with your engine is of no real use to you. It's a little expensive but IMO worth the investment. Time is money and while you are researching wire diagrams you could be connecting the 5 wires and firing the engine and working toward finishing your truck. No need for a body control harness or module. Have a gander at the below thread and you'll see how easy the swap really is.
Thanks for the links. That was an awesome build that you did. I appreciate your response. It is good to see someone who has already done it.
If I could have bought a Ford control pack for $1400, like your first link shows, I would have been all over it.
Your second link is from Power by the Hour. I saw that control Pack that they offer. It shows that it only goes to 2020. Mine is a 2022, that I bought about a year ago. I have bought some Coyote parts form them already. Their Control Pack is around $2500.
I am trying to build the best truck I can for minimal money. I was able to get the engine and transmission combo, delivered for $8,000. I thought that was a real good deal. I know that I may have to purchase a control pack or a body harness with a Ford Racing ECU. I was just trying to use the factory wiring that came with the engine. It does not have a lot of extras. It also has the battery connections.
You might call Power by the hour and confirm. Their website says gen3 F150s but it also says 2020. The control pack comes with everything you need there's no reason whatsoever to have a body harness the control pack doesn't come with a body harness it comes with an ECU with two connectors one for the 10r80 and one for your existing engine harness. Five wires, a fuel pump 12V, a ground, 12 volt hot at all times, Ignition key on, and one for your electric fan which is turned on by the ecu.
You might call Power by the hour and confirm. Their website says gen3 F150s but it also says 2020. The control pack comes with everything you need there's no reason whatsoever to have a body harness the control pack doesn't come with a body harness it comes with an ECU with two connectors one for the 10r80 and one for your existing engine harness. Five wires, a fuel pump 12V, a ground, 12 volt hot at all times, Ignition key on, and one for your electric fan which is turned on by the ecu.
I thought the body harness had all the internals that you need, such as the OBDII connection. I just did not want to pay for things I did not need, or want, such as the cold air intake that nobody uses. PBR kit has what I think I need. When I get that far, I will contact them. I also have bought items from Fat Fender Garage which is local to me. They have done a lot of Coyote swaps.
You might call Power by the hour and confirm. Their website says gen3 F150s but it also says 2020. The control pack comes with everything you need there's no reason whatsoever to have a body harness the control pack doesn't come with a body harness it comes with an ECU with two connectors one for the 10r80 and one for your existing engine harness. Five wires, a fuel pump 12V, a ground, 12 volt hot at all times, Ignition key on, and one for your electric fan which is turned on by the ecu.
The control pack comes with the OBDII connector, it truly is everything you need to make the truck run amazing. I'm in the West valley off the 303. I've been over to Fat Fender and talked with Jason and his crew on a couple of occasions and they gave me a tour. Very nice people. I didn't end up buying much from them as I purchased the Coyote motor mounts from Welder Series in Canada and used different exhaust.
I did not use the ECU for my fan as I installed AC with a trinary switch. I bought this very simplistic fan controller off Ebay which is my third vehicle using this exact controller. Power on from the AC panel overrides it. Set to come on at 185 degrees. I took the dial off the controller set it once and done.
I did not use the ECU for my fan as I installed AC with a trinary switch. I bought this very simplistic fan controller off Ebay which is my third vehicle using this exact controller. Power on from the AC panel overrides it. Set to come on at 185 degrees. I took the dial off the controller set it once and done.
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