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Ok y'all, I'm trying to feed myself by doing my own research so I'm using this calculator: https://rvingzone.com/towing-calculator/ and I just confused myself on which number I'm supposed to input in the "Cargo Weight" section from the below RV mfg's specs. Is it the payload cap or the cargo weight?
20939013[/url]]Ok y'all, I'm trying to feed myself by doing my own research so I'm using this calculator: https://rvingzone.com/towing-calculator/ and I just confused myself on which number I'm supposed to input in the "Cargo Weight" section from the below mfg's specs. Is it the payload cap or the cargo weight?
if I’m not mistaken payload is the total amount you can load into the truck, they minus 525 pounds for the always required driver and fuel so it leaves you with 2500 lbs of usable cargo weight
As far as I can tell from that site, neither. It looks to me like the fields on the left are all manufacturer provided information, specs of the truck and trailer. The fields on the right appear to be measured or estimated amounts. So either of the cargo weight fields would be how much weight you have either in the truck or in the trailer.
From the 2017 Ford Towing Guide. I'm not sure that this clears anything up since it's for the truck, not the trailer. I don't think the brochure for my trailer listed anything but cargo capacity.
Ok y'all, I'm trying to feed myself by doing my own research so I'm using this calculator: https://rvingzone.com/towing-calculator/ and I just confused myself on which number I'm supposed to input in the "Cargo Weight" section from the below RV mfg's specs. Is it the payload cap or the cargo weight?
The 353TH13 is a fifth wheel toyhauler so they divide the weight load rating into two separate numbers. Their Payload number is the available TOTAL load on the trailer chassis, the 3025 lbs added to the UVW of 10970 equals the GVWR of 13,995 lbs. Their Cargo weight is what they are limiting the garage “toy” load to, maybe it’s the ramp door weight limit or just how they engineered it for some balance point.
That calculated hitch weight is waaay low, KZ’s advertised dry hitch weight is 2560 lbs and that will only go up once you start loading gear into the trailer. The accepted rule of thumb for fiver pin weight is 20% to 25% of the GVWR, so between 3,498 lbs and 2,799 lbs. Even a 22.5% middle ground pin weight would be 3,148 lbs, and that’s just the pin weight, you still have to add in the weight of whatever hitch you would use and apply that to your trucks payload capacity or the rear tire load ratings, whichever you are most comfortable with. I don’t know where the calculated hitch weight of 2,020 lbs came from, but it’s not realistic at all.
Ok y'all, I'm trying to feed myself by doing my own research so I'm using this calculator: https://rvingzone.com/towing-calculator/ and I just confused myself on which number I'm supposed to input in the "Cargo Weight" section from the below RV mfg's specs. Is it the payload cap or the cargo weight?
Crazyasian, I will offer some feedback as well when thinking about all of this.
GVWR 13995 lbs - Maximum the trailer can weigh with everything in it. RV UVW 10970 lbs - Claimed empty weight by the manufacturer. This is never accurate and not a good number to go by. So realistically you probably wont have 3,025 pounds of payload remaining. These numbers do not reflect options added to the trailer that affect total weight or propane. Payload Capacity 3025 lbs - The weight of all cargo in the trailer. This is the toy in the garage plus propane, food, clothes, what is in the tanks (Fuel, water, sewage), and anything else taken along as long as it does not exceed 13,995 pounds! Cargo Weight 2500 lbs - This is just for the garage space. In the rear of the trailer, this is the maximum weight of whatever you put back there. Calculated GVW 13470 lbs
Calculated Hitch Weight 2020.5 lbs - As noted, this will change. Toy haulers have the unique trait of actually getting a little lighter on hitch weight once something is in the garage. Basically, the weight of the "toy" is typically behind the trailer's axles and once loaded, transfers some weight off of the hitch.
The only way to know where you are at when fully loaded is to go scale the combination. I do this for every trip I make with my combination (RAM 3500 + GD 390RK) to get a real-world idea of all of the numbers. Here is my process:
1. Load the trailer and truck and make sure the truck is totally full of fuel. If you have an auxiliary fuel tank for your toy in the trailer, this would include that as well.
2. Scale the whole combination at a CAT scale (to include people and pets).
3. Drop the trailer and scale the truck with people and pets.
That will give you the only way to know what your actual CGVW is, what your trailer weighs, what your truck weighs, front and rear axle weights, and what your hitch weight is. Additional points to consider:
- Your stuff adds up quick. You will be surprised by how fast weight adds up when you pack out and are on the road. We learned fast that we had to get light during our travels. My trailer GVWR is 16,800. Our first trip we were around 18,000 and well over every number on the truck and the trailer. After that trip, we now unload clothes, canned food, small appliances, bottles from our alcohol and wine collection, dishes, pots/pans, and stuff from the storage areas every time we make a trip (we are full-time RV's). We are always at 16,500-17,000 now.
- How you load your weight matters. Our trailer is rear heavy because it is a rear kitchen model so we have to transfer stuff from the rear storage area to the front storage area to better balance the total weight of the trailer and make sure that we have enough hitch weight.
- Tank Management. Don't travel with stuff in your tanks if you can help it, plan to fill your toy hauler tank towards the end of your travels unless you need the weight to balance hitch weight. Usually this is only an issue if you are boon docking and need fresh water and then conversely have to move with stuff in the grey and black tanks. Many OHV areas have dumping stations in the area, do your research and locate the nearest one so you can dump before heading home.
- It is better to be empty or full, don't travel half-full. Liquids sloshing around will make the trailer sway more and can create dangerous situations. This will be most notable on off/on-ramps, long curves, or high winds. If you have to travel like that, just be aware of that dynamic and don't let it catch you off guard.
- Tank Management. Don't travel with stuff in your tanks if you can help it, plan to fill your toy hauler tank towards the end of your travels unless you need the weight to balance hitch weight.
This is my approach also. Minimal water in the fresh water tank. Enough to run the toilet while out on the road, just in case.
The crossmembers that support my 120 gallon fresh water tank were bent into an arc instead of being straight. I suspect that a prior owner fill the tank full and then found the roughest road available. I replaced the crossmembers I could with stouter material and doubled up on the crossmembers that couldn't be replaced outright.
The 353TH13 is a fifth wheel toyhauler so they divide the weight load rating into two separate numbers. Their Payload number is the available TOTAL load on the trailer chassis, the 3025 lbs added to the UVW of 10970 equals the GVWR of 13,995 lbs. Their Cargo weight is what they are limiting the garage “toy” load to, maybe it’s the ramp door weight limit or just how they engineered it for some balance point.
That calculated hitch weight is waaay low, KZ’s advertised dry hitch weight is 2560 lbs and that will only go up once you start loading gear into the trailer. The accepted rule of thumb for fiver pin weight is 20% to 25% of the GVWR, so between 3,498 lbs and 2,799 lbs. Even a 22.5% middle ground pin weight would be 3,148 lbs, and that’s just the pin weight, you still have to add in the weight of whatever hitch you would use and apply that to your trucks payload capacity or the rear tire load ratings, whichever you are most comfortable with. I don’t know where the calculated hitch weight of 2,020 lbs came from, but it’s not realistic at all.
Crazyasian, I will offer some feedback as well when thinking about all of this.
Hope that helps!
It does indeed, viable and necessary feedback thank you! I was HOPING that the KZ numbers would fit within the specs for a 2024 XLT, SRW, CCSB, 4.30 gears, 5th/Goose prep pkg, but it looks like a 5th wheel with the comforts we're looking for is just too much trailer for my truck. Pretty sure the dealer won't let me borrow the trailer to load it up and weight it at a CAT scale lol, and I'd be stupid to buy the damn thing if it's this close. Oh well, travel trailer it is!
Appreciate you all taking the time to share your knowledge!
