Removing the intake manifold
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
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From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Removing the intake manifold
On my 65 F100, with a 390, many years ago I swapped the aluminum Edlebrock single plane intake manifold for the cast iron Ford 4bbl thinking I would increase MPG, oh well live and learn? After setting for some time I now want to clean and dress the engine but appears the rocker assembly needs to be removed in order to do so; faced with the dilemma whether clean and paint the intake as best as possible while on the engine or deal with removing the rocker assembly, appears assembling and adjusting the valves can be labor intensive task I just do not recall having to so in the past nor what is involved? Possibly selling after installing the engine, assembling new front suspension and making a few minor repairs??
Comments/Suggestions appreciated!!
Comments/Suggestions appreciated!!
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver
With #1 cylinder at firing position, turn the engine by hand a little clockwise to put the pointer on the XX on the balancer. Loosen the shaft bolts 1/4 turn, starting from #8 cylinder and from #1 cylinder. Remove the shafts, remembering where the reduced-shank bolts go. Pull the pushrods and keep them in order. Be sure no lifters come out. Reassemble in a similar way. No valve adjustment will be necessary, even with adjustable rockers, if nothing is disturbed or mixed up. (The pushrods are not necessarily all the same length.)
Sounds like the motor's out. Good time to remove the water pump for a new bypass hose, and install the pump after the intake.
Eric.
Sounds like the motor's out. Good time to remove the water pump for a new bypass hose, and install the pump after the intake.
Eric.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
On my 65 F100, with a 390, many years ago I swapped the aluminum Edlebrock single plane intake manifold for the cast iron Ford 4bbl thinking I would increase MPG, oh well live and learn? After setting for some time I now want to clean and dress the engine but appears the rocker assembly needs to be removed in order to do so; faced with the dilemma whether clean and paint the intake as best as possible while on the engine or deal with removing the rocker assembly, appears assembling and adjusting the valves can be labor intensive task I just do not recall having to so in the past nor what is involved? Possibly selling after installing the engine, assembling new front suspension and making a few minor repairs??
Comments/Suggestions appreciated!!
Comments/Suggestions appreciated!!
As a result of U all's comments and suggestions it will be a 'do it myself' project I will have to minimize my senior moments and focus on what I am doing. I thank U all's for the help!!.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Watched a video, believe it was 'Roadkill' where the team replaced a cast iron intake with an aluminum where the cast iron came in at around 75 lbs and the aluminum at around 35 lbs. My experience is if I am running a 390 gas hog swapping the aluminum 4bbl open single plane intake for the cast iron was not worth perhaps the 2 mpg increase. .
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From: Upstate NY
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver
My latest swap is still fresh in my mind. I had things apart for lifters so I removed a minty Streetmaster and put on an "S" iron intake. I had blocked the crossover on the Streetmaster mainly to prevent corrosion. It seemed never to warm up without the exhaust heat. It now runs way better in all conditions and makes usable power from 1000 rpm too. Dunno about the mpg... pretty bad either way.
Eric.
Eric.
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pigsew
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Aug 19, 2001 06:08 PM