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So my engine is beginning to sweat alot of hp (leaking oil) and I want to keep it inside the engine not on the ground. Going to pull the engine in a week or two replace all the seals and throw some goodies at it to try n wake it up a bit. Thinking a straight up timing set, intake and headers.
Anyone use this timing set? PN CLO-C-3079X
Headers, what do you guys have on your truck for long tube? Thinking headman headers but if I find cheaper I'll take it. PN HED-89340
Intake is gonna be a weiand stealth intake PN WND-8012
I'm also going to do the starter before she gets headers on so what brand it best. I don't need top of the line $400 starters just something that's not gonna let me down.
It would probably be helpful to know it's an 85 f350 460 with a 4spd manual (would like to fit a 5spd some day) 4×4 with the twin I-beam front axle.
I just read in a review that cyl #4 tube hits the starter and motor mount. Anyone know by how much. I don't mind grinding down the motor mount but what about the starter? How much work would it take to make these fit?
I bought a DB Electrical PMGR starter. It was under $100. So far no problems and I put plenty of cranks on it trying to figure out why the engine wouldn’t start (ultimately stuck injectors). It’ll definitely free up some room relative to the OE starter.
You might want to talk with a Rep from either Jeg's or Summit Racing and see what you can get all from one place that will work well together. I'm sure your not the first one to do this.
I know Summit has good customer support.
I know headers make a little more power, but that little bit to me is not worth the hassle installing them and working around them. I would keep your manifolds.
Just asking the sanity if this being your only form of transportation, and wanting to do this in a week. Remember, for the headers you'll need some type of mufflers.
Can we assume you have all the tools to support what you want to do in "one week" ?
Have you tightened up all the bolts on the valve covers and oil pan ? That stopped my oil leaks.
Have you thought about doing it in steps, That way you'll know the starter, intake, etc work well before you go replacing all that at once with today's parts.
While the engine's out, have the FW surfaced and new clutch set-up ?
You'll need fluids...
Just asking the sanity if this being your only form of transportation, and wanting to do this in a week. Remember, for the headers you'll need some type of mufflers.
Can we assume you have all the tools to support what you want to do in "one week" ?
Have you tightened up all the bolts on the valve covers and oil pan ? That stopped my oil leaks.
Have you thought about doing it in steps, That way you'll know the starter, intake, etc work well before you go replacing all that at once with today's parts.
While the engine's out, have the FW surfaced and new clutch set-up ?
You'll need fluids...
Ehh mufflers dont need them.
I have a friend that's gonna help me make and exhaust after i get the engine in the truck.
I work in a shop that has almost every tool or we can make that tool I need. I have lots of resources to work with.
I did tighten them and it stopped the leak but now it's the main seals that are leaking. It's made quite the mess on the bottom of the truck from it being flung everywhere.
I thought about that but I would like to get these parts on before school starts up next month since I won't have much time to work on it anymore.
This truck only has 65000 miles, you think it should be resurfaced?
I know headers make a little more power, but that little bit to me is not worth the hassle installing them and working around them. I would keep your manifolds.
^^^THIS^^^
If you decide to get headers I suggest getting the cheapest ones you can. Especially if your going to have to use a BFH to get them to fit. Plus, any powder coating or paint on them will quickly incinerate.
It makes finical sense that when the engine is out, to replace the clutch and make sure the FW is in good shape. The clutch is, how old ?
When i pull the engine that will be the first thing I look at. The truck is 100% original from 85 to 23 so 38 years old. The clutch feels awesome, no slip or funny noise. It grabs nice and smooth. How much would it cost for me to get the fw resurfaced?
If you decide to get headers I suggest getting the cheapest ones you can. Especially if your going to have to use a BFH to get them to fit. Plus, any powder coating or paint on them will quickly incinerate.
When i pull the engine that will be the first thing I look at. The truck is 100% original from 85 to 23 so 38 years old. The clutch feels awesome, no slip or funny noise. It grabs nice and smooth. How much would it cost for me to get the fw resurfaced?
A local machine shop can tell you the cost of that. You'll also want to install a new clutch set-up, which includes a clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bearing.
One thought on those cheap headers, how long will they last ?
The only reason I mention to get cheapie headers is if you have to use a BFH to install them. Are there headers made for the OPs application that install without modification?
I installed powder coated Hedman Hedders on my classic Oldsmobile. They fit well (no modification necessary). But the powder coating quickly became discolored and burnt after a year or two.
Don't forget that installing headers is always a PITA. I've used 3 different aftermarket bolts/fasteners in attempts to keep the headers tight. They seem to always need tightening or new gaskets.
A local machine shop can tell you the cost of that. You'll also want to install a new clutch set-up, which includes a clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bearing.
One thought on those cheap headers, how long will they last ?
I'll call the local machine shop and ask. If I were to take them out of thw box and put them on 5 years maybe (according to them) i plan on sandblasting them and painting them with hifh temp