No high end
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 386
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From: Wichita, KS
Ive never heard of a ford product with the coil built into it, I thought that was a chevy thing. I am however a big fan of the mallory unilites, there expensive though. and you still have to have an external coil.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Weston, Nebraska
Well it's not nessacarilly "built" in. It's still sort of seperate but just all in a neat plastic casing. I would buy a Mallory or MSD if it was worth it, but until I would get a cam, 4 barrel intake, headers, and a head and valve job I'll hold off, plus my problem seems to lie in my electronic advance. Boy I'd like to rip all that crap off there and just hook up a vacuum line and toss that stupid carb. But not sure I wanna stick all that money into building up a 220K engine that a 460 would probably still beat stock.
Redneck-Cowboy
Redneck-Cowboy
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Houston TX
Anyway I took off the dist. cap and cleaned the rotor and each of the dist. contacts and simply put it back together and now it doesn't run at all and this isn't the 1st time I've done this, so I did it right..................................
I would think the problem lies here, as far as the short term problem anyway...Check all the little wires inside the distributor. You may have one that has a broken wire inside the insulation, or is frayed, and finally broke. You can do a "so-so" coil test with an ohmmeter. The primary on coils that use a ballast resister should read about 1 ohm or so. Non ballast coils, about 4 ohms or so. Not real critical... The secondary between "dist" and the tower should read from 4k-8k for a standard coil, and as high as 7k-13k for the newer coils. Again not real critical...
That will give you an idea if it's good in general. Check all ignition module connectors. Unplug and plug them a few times to clean the terminals, then apply some of that dielectric grease to help seal the connectors. I've seen those pesky connectors cause problems like this, even if they look ok. The voltages are pretty low, and any excess resistance at the module, dist, etc connectors really whack out the program...
MK
I would think the problem lies here, as far as the short term problem anyway...Check all the little wires inside the distributor. You may have one that has a broken wire inside the insulation, or is frayed, and finally broke. You can do a "so-so" coil test with an ohmmeter. The primary on coils that use a ballast resister should read about 1 ohm or so. Non ballast coils, about 4 ohms or so. Not real critical... The secondary between "dist" and the tower should read from 4k-8k for a standard coil, and as high as 7k-13k for the newer coils. Again not real critical...
That will give you an idea if it's good in general. Check all ignition module connectors. Unplug and plug them a few times to clean the terminals, then apply some of that dielectric grease to help seal the connectors. I've seen those pesky connectors cause problems like this, even if they look ok. The voltages are pretty low, and any excess resistance at the module, dist, etc connectors really whack out the program...
MK
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Weston, Nebraska
Guess what the stupid problem was. I went into to NAPA the other day and got the control mod. tested. Bad. So I buy another one, truck starts right up, but still clicks, about 10 mins. ago "brown 4x4" in the 86 trucks and vans section tells me to check the little wire that hooks in with the neg. on the batt. I move it around w/ the ignition on and click click click the wire was hanging on by a thread. So I ripped it off crimped on a end and bolted it on the neg. and she runs like a champ. Such dumb little stuff sometimes. I never did know what this wire did, but now I do, he had the same prob.
Redneck-Cowboy
Redneck-Cowboy
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From: Weston, Nebraska
I now went and got plug wire, dist. cap and a rotor and the truck idles better then it ever has, nice and smooth, but I'm still lacking high end power, do you think the coil is just geting weak?
Redneck-Cowboy
Redneck-Cowboy
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From: Houston TX
Not if it's not cutting out. You'll notice a misfire if your plugs can't fire. I'd check the timing, and check fuel volume from the fuel pump. If it is obviously misfiring under load, then yep, it's possible the coil could be weak, being you changed the plugs and wires, etc. Coils don't go bad very often though. If your coil voltage is lower than usual, you will see a yellowish weak looking spark, instead of bright blue-white. Offhand, I'd suspect fuel starvation problems, or timing first. MK
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Elder User
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From: Weston, Nebraska
Well I don't think it was ever advanced it's complentary 3 degrees so I could try that, but it still leaves me w/ the question of why this high end power was lost in the first place. My fuel is under a year old w/ a lifetime warrenty from Advance Auto Parts, I kind of doubt that would go bad, but how would I check the volume? The carb is a 1/2 a year rebuilt from O'reilly's so all these fuel and ignition basic stuff is new except the coil, air cleaner, and fuel filter. Do you think a K&N air filter would be worth the money for this engine?
Redneck-Cowboy
Redneck-Cowboy
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From: Houston TX
Low pressure can cause it to lean at high speeds. In my book, I show 1 pint per 20 seconds on 75 -86 trucks. So unhook your hose to the carb, or run one to a can or bottle, and see if it pumps 1 pint per 20 seconds. Being your filter is not new, thats the first thing I would look at. I'd get a new one. No, I don't think the air filter is worth it. Or at least, it's sure not the cause for your problem. I'd check the timing and set it to specs according to your underhood sticker, or a manual. For a 300, 6 to 10 degrees is the norm. Make sure the vacuum advance is unhooked when you set the base timing. MK
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From: Conyers
Only 3 degree advance at idle?!?!?!?It should be set at 10 degrees with the spout connector (it's the yellow single wire with the big connector) disconnected. Try advancing it and pull the filter and put a piece of hose in it's place and take it for a run. If it runs better then replace the filter.
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Elder User
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From: Weston, Nebraska
Well about 15 minutes ago (10 at night) I went out and advanced my dist. about a 1/16 of a turn. It's now a little more jumpy at low rpm and runs really smooth at high rpms, it also doesn't flood out slightly anymore like it use to when I lugged it cold, but my problem persists, still no high end.
Anyway you say 1 pint per 20 secs. that is at cranking speed right? That won't tell me if it starts lacking at highend though unless it's shot all the way around. I do have my old fuel pump still, when I replaced it I thought it was the prob. but it turned out to be another one of Carter's tricks. So I could try that one if I needed to although it's the original. I meant to get a fuel filter when I bought the ignition components, but it sliped my mind along w/ the air filter. I also have electronic advance not vacuum, but I wish I did after this crap I just went through. My fuel filter is also directly screwed into the carb. so no rubber hose is going to work there.
Redneck-Cowboy
Anyway you say 1 pint per 20 secs. that is at cranking speed right? That won't tell me if it starts lacking at highend though unless it's shot all the way around. I do have my old fuel pump still, when I replaced it I thought it was the prob. but it turned out to be another one of Carter's tricks. So I could try that one if I needed to although it's the original. I meant to get a fuel filter when I bought the ignition components, but it sliped my mind along w/ the air filter. I also have electronic advance not vacuum, but I wish I did after this crap I just went through. My fuel filter is also directly screwed into the carb. so no rubber hose is going to work there.
Redneck-Cowboy
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From: Houston TX
No, the tests are supposed to be done when running at idle speed. According to the book, you have to rig a hose and restrictor up inline from the pump to the carb. But I've done tests while cranking, and that will give you a pretty good idea if go or no go. Probably not much else.. You need to set the timing with a light first before you can really do anything else. Stills sounds timing related to me, rather than fuel, as I think about it..Usually when you starve for fuel at high speeds with a carb , you just cut out. The carb bowl goes dry for short periods, and the engine gags. You usually don't see just a loss of power without obvious cutting out, or missing. Timing problems sure will do that though. I'd set the timing to spec with a good timing light, and then after you do that, verify with the light that the vacuum advance is working. You will see the timing advance as you give it throttle. MK
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Elder User
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From: Weston, Nebraska
The other day I was playing with my dist. agian, now while it was runnin, you know seeing what it would do when I turned the dist. back and forth, got it to idle really good, but it seems no matter what I do (advance it or retard it) it's still lackin. I just kind of time by sound, I also have electronic advance for futher notice. Maybe it's the coil, that's all it seems it can be.
Redneck-Cowboy
Redneck-Cowboy
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Joined: Dec 2003
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check your intake manifold for a vacuum leak a new gasket for intake /exhaust runs about 9.00 at autozone.i think this could be your problem, take a can of carb. cleaner and spray around intake with engine idleing,if the rpm changes you'll need a new gasket.this has happened to my 1986 f-150 4x4 300 (4.9)L before I hope this helps you ,it will be pretty easy to change if its you problem.
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Elder User
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From: Weston, Nebraska
Yeah there is a vacuum leak somewhere in the engine comp. but it's always been like that. If the intake is leaking I'd like to go ahead with the offenhauser, but I spose it's just the gasket.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Normal, IL
Think it would be worth it to buy one of those HEI dist. that have everything in them (coil, dist. condenser, advance system) and all you need to do is connect it to a 12 volt power source.
I have heard of this. It's called the DUI (Davis Unified Ignition) by Performance Distributors(www.performancedistributors.com). It works great, is really easy to work, and pulls strong to over 7000 rpm on a freinds race truck.
I have heard of this. It's called the DUI (Davis Unified Ignition) by Performance Distributors(www.performancedistributors.com). It works great, is really easy to work, and pulls strong to over 7000 rpm on a freinds race truck.