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Doing a counterfit restoration on a 1975 F-350, and went to replace the all the bushings in the suspension. Took the radius arm out and found this. Advice? Doesn't look good to run. Where to find one? And are the radius arms off a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton the same?
I’m sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong, but I think the only difference was based on GVW. The heavier rated trucks got a stiffening bracket between the arms. Here’s a set for sale on Ebay. These look exactly like the ones on my F-250 with a GVW of 6900lbs.
Doing a counterfit restoration on a 1975 F-350, and went to replace the all the bushings in the suspension. Took the radius arm out and found this. Advice? Doesn't look good to run. Where to find one? And are the radius arms off a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton the same?
It can be fixed in a few ways quite easily. One way would be to simply cut the weld out, replace the worn piece with a whole new bolt after cutting head off, add a collar made from a nut, careful measuring.
Originally Posted by Viper Pilot
I’m sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong, but I think the only difference was based on GVW. The heavier rated trucks got a stiffening bracket between the arms. Here’s a set for sale on Ebay. These look exactly like the ones on my F-250 with a GVW of 6900lbs.
Yeah, I guess I should have called it that but it doesn’t really looks like a typical sway bar to me so I’ve just been calling it “that beam between the arms”. In fact, it didn’t even register as such to me when I was doing the suspension build on my truck so now I have TWO front sway bars. Ha!
Just be aware that if you put the radius arms back in as a whole assembly that sway bar makes it a pain in the butt. Have a pry bar and an assistant handy.
Yeah, I guess I should have called it that but it doesn’t really looks like a typical sway bar to me so I’ve just been calling it “that beam between the arms”. In fact, it didn’t even register as such to me when I was doing the suspension build on my truck so now I have TWO front sway bars. Ha!
Just be aware that if you put the radius arms back in as a whole assembly that sway bar makes it a pain in the butt. Have a pry bar and an assistant handy.
Don't reckon I have a sway bar. I'm probably going to replace it over winter. But do you think I can run it temporarily? Check it for cracks and the like?
I thought maybe was just a temporary loss of words. Happens sometimes. In my past, sway bars attached to radius or control arms usually was a thing on rear suspensions of some cars. Your picture is the first time I had seen one on old Ford truck front twin eye beam radius arms, but it would work.
Originally Posted by Adrian Arnold
Don't reckon I have a sway bar. I'm probably going to replace it over winter. But do you think I can run it temporarily? Check it for cracks and the like?
I know, you didn't ask me ... but that has been wearing a long time. It is high stressed when compared to our fingers, but as steel goes, it's certainly capable of more service, it;s just not heavily stressed across the stud, more length wise in pull / push, mostly push (compression) when you are on the brakes .
I only replied so your concern didn't get lost in banter.
How much more service? I'm not using this truck commercially. Just for jobs around the house. And occasionally towing home a new project or two. I still need to know if there is a difference between any truck sizes and where to get one. First resto project and just need guidance. Rock auto doesn't carry these. My dad said they weren't typically wear parts so they didn't really keep them in stock.
Just be aware that if you put the radius arms back in as a whole assembly that sway bar makes it a pain in the butt. Have a pry bar and an assistant handy.
You’ll have to have someone pull part numbers. I don’t see why the radius arms would be different between models. I wouldn’t hesitate to run that one as is either, I’d say it’s pretty common wear.
How much more service? I'm not using this truck commercially. Just for jobs around the house. And occasionally towing home a new project or two. ...........
I can't say how many miles but in another 30-40 years it's gonna be worn more.
Another thought, thinking about what stresses that actually sees and it's purpose, I might would just build it up with a good number rod, maybe a nickel rod (welding rod) as they wear better and smooth back to round to fit the sleeves in the bushings I was using.
I've seen worse still in use. I likely wouldn't use that end of my radius arm as a jacking point though, but the frame bracket would be OK.
I can't say how many miles but in another 30-40 years it's gonna be worn more.
Another thought, thinking about what stresses that actually sees and it's purpose, I might would just build it up with a good number rod, maybe a nickel rod (welding rod) as they wear better and smooth back to round to fit the sleeves in the bushings I was using.
I've seen worse still in use. I likely wouldn't use that end of my radius arm as a jacking point though, but the frame bracket would be OK.
it did cross my mind, but leaving undercut or modifying the temper could do more harm than good. Swapping it out with a fresh bolt or stud or even from a newer radius arm shouldn’t be too difficult(on the stamped steel versions).
attached image from 73 service manual is all I have for reference, prefix seems to follow to late radius arms.
