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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

No Start, Bad HPOP?

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Old Jul 27, 2023 | 07:19 PM
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No Start, Bad HPOP?

Hello all, I have had an issue recently with a truck that has had a hard time starting occasionally. It doesn't seem to have any correlation, sometimes it cranks long when the engine is hot, sometimes it cranks long when it's the first start of the day. It gave a P2291 code so that's all I had to go off of. And then last Saturday it didn't start at all when I tried to go home from an event. In the last 5k miles (3 months) I have replaced the FICM power supply, HPOP, dummy plugs and standpipes, and in a blind attempt to fix the truck a new IPR valve. I also just replaced the injectors while doing the IPR valve, but at this point they are after the original issue. I have swapped the ICP sensor for a known good part so I don't believe that is the issue either. Injectors all pass testing and appear to be working just fine. I am trying to convince myself it is not the HPOP that has gone bad so quickly, but stranger things have happened. Now for some stats:

At the peak of cranking (30 seconds):
SYNC - Yes
FICM sync - Yes
FICM logic - 11 volts (a little low but it's been that way for a while)
FICM Injector Power - 49.5v
ICP - 0.51v
ICP - 253 psi
ICP Desired - 1195 psi
IPR - 84.77%
RPM - 173

Batteries are fully charged.and 6 months old.

All these point to the HPOP in my experience and previous research, but I want to get some help and confirmation before I start trying to warranty and replace the pump. Other information that might be helpful, sensors are all Motorcraft, injectors are motorcraft, HPOP is Sinister Reman, dummy plugs are Motorcraft, and FICM power is BPD with an International reman logic board. When cranking I do smell a bit of exhaust which seems to me like it's getting fuel. My gas minded self keeps thinking it's not getting spark but I know that's not the issue. Oil is a good level however it is conventional NAPA oil as I was breaking in a new turbo.

Thanks for any possible help y'all can send my way, even if it is just confirming my fears.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2023 | 09:56 PM
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Your IPR valve is maxxing out at 85% trying to pressurize your oil, and not succeeding, so it sets that 2291. It could be the IPR stuck, but if not, you prolly got a leaky o-ring somewhere. Sounds like you've upgraded some of those, but you don't mention the STC fitting. Not sure what year your truck is, but they're a know failure point for trucks with the old style.

 
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Old Jul 27, 2023 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by IHateCommieCars
Your IPR valve is maxxing out at 85% trying to pressurize your oil, and not succeeding, so it sets that 2291. It could be the IPR stuck, but if not, you prolly got a leaky o-ring somewhere. Sounds like you've upgraded some of those, but you don't mention the STC fitting. Not sure what year your truck is, but they're a know failure point for trucks with the old style.

Ooh I knew I was forgetting something. It’s a 2006 F-350. The pump came with a pre installed STC fitting and o-rings-seals. https://sinisterdiesel.com/sinister-...troke-60l.html

As far as I know it was a pretty much fully inclusive kit.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2023 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Brendon Griffin
Hello all, I have had an issue recently with a truck that has had a hard time starting occasionally. It doesn't seem to have any correlation, sometimes it cranks long when the engine is hot, sometimes it cranks long when it's the first start of the day. It gave a P2291 code so that's all I had to go off of. And then last Saturday it didn't start at all when I tried to go home from an event.
Another thing to note is that the first experience of the long crank or anything abnormal was the Wednesday before. So it was like 4 days between original symptoms and now not starting.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2023 | 01:11 AM
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Hmmmmmm..... Seeing Sinister Diesel makes me nervous in many ways NGL, but these pumps for these later years are pretty good overall across the board.

I'd say air test.

ICP V and PSI seem to match up.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2023 | 06:44 AM
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Standpipes lately have been notorious for failing, even new. Anything from Sinister is questionable. Air test is a very good suggestion.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2023 | 08:05 AM
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Easiest to air test through the IPR valve port, so before you do, check the IPR valve for free movement when you take it out, especially if the screen is torn. Shoot some cleaner through it for general maintenance. While there aren't many o-rings left that you haven't replaced, your risks of past work being shoddy or parts failing is increasing. No telling where the leak could be from at this point.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2023 | 09:22 AM
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Jack is right about standpipe issues, I'm choosing to re-use/re-seal a good set instead of buying new after seeing the inside sealing surface of a new Motorcraft one posted by Hartwig on the .org.

Installation procedures also have a significant impact. A good lubricant for the D-rings and giving the seals plenty of time to relax before installation are both good practice.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2023 | 12:33 PM
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"giving the seals plenty of time to relax"

Also, your music choice. Believe it or not, injectors like rap and hip hop. I don't know if you've noticed, but that's why when you're driving and really give it some pedal, it feels like something grabbed your shorts and you start singing, "Who Let the Dogs Out." Maybe others have a different experience.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2023 | 01:20 PM
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Not mine, Dude. I've still got pilot injection.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2023 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by HEUI Lewis
Hmmmmmm..... Seeing Sinister Diesel makes me nervous in many ways NGL, but these pumps for these later years are pretty good overall across the board.

I'd say air test.

ICP V and PSI seem to match up.
Okay, well I finally got the pieces I needed to do an air test. Hooked it up to the ICP system and hear air coming from for sure the driver's side cover out of the breather tube. This is my first time testing, but from my research that screams leak. Let it sit for 5 minutes or so at around 100 psi and the air didn't stop hissing. Commanded the IPR open and it didn't make a difference with the hissing. So, that would be standpipes right? Should I be just buying new ones from Ford or looking for o-rings or what are the thoughts there?
 
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Old Aug 2, 2023 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by HEUI Lewis
Installation procedures also have a significant impact. A good lubricant for the D-rings and giving the seals plenty of time to relax before installation are both good practice.
As you mention that, I'm remembering the initial install they had days to sit and rest before trying to start anything, but I had the drivers rail off 2 months ago to do some follow up work and I'm now thinking I didn't let the o-rings sit long enough before starting it up. That might be the source of the issue.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2023 | 09:12 PM
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I believe that you're supposed to let them relax while the standpipe is still in two pieces. After letting them sit over night, coat the o-rings in lubricant, assemble, and install.

Otherwise, damage can occur to a stretched out seal that hasn't recovered its initial shape yet.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2023 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Brendon Griffin
Commanded the IPR open and it didn't make a difference with the hissing. So,
That would be Commanded the IPR closed -- the valve is open by default

What was the process of the command ? How did you do it ?
 
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Old Aug 3, 2023 | 10:14 AM
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Well, I wouldn't jump to conclusions about the standpipes/dummy plugs. You would also hear leaks from nipple cup o-rings from each valve cover (and maybe the top seal of an injector?).
 
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