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I dont remember exactly what I put in it, full synthetic (hopefully its not crystallizing and damaging my lifters!) Haven't noticed any oil burning and I'm almost due to change it.
No reason to suggest that a full synthetic is causing the problem. Just curious what oil you use and how often you change it. Also curious on it using oil, as the manual says that this can happen while the engine is young.
Would it be a good PM idea to pull the spark plugs and coat the threads with anti-seize and the porcelain with a dielectric grease to make replacement easier down the road?
I have a 22 F250 7.3 with just over 10K miles and I keep all of my vehicles a very long time.
Resurrecting this one to report a plug wire failure yesterday on my truck. Happened pretty suddenly, truck ran fine all the way to the ranch 40 miles away, check engine light came on but I was there and it was running fine. Light back on in the afternoon for the 40 mile drive over the mountain home. Pulled the codes P0302 and P03160 so misfire #2 and misfire at start up. Ran like crap on the way home but no choice. Put the OHM meter on the plug wire and it is toast, no visible damage. Mine was also on the #2 cylinder, seems like a common one to go. Probably headed to the dealer for a new one as the auto parts stores do not stock plug wires, which is INSANE to me but...
Resurrecting this one to report a plug wire failure yesterday on my truck. Happened pretty suddenly, truck ran fine all the way to the ranch 40 miles away, check engine light came on but I was there and it was running fine. Light back on in the afternoon for the 40 mile drive over the mountain home. Pulled the codes P0302 and P03160 so misfire #2 and misfire at start up. Ran like crap on the way home but no choice. Put the OHM meter on the plug wire and it is toast, no visible damage. Mine was also on the #2 cylinder, seems like a common one to go. Probably headed to the dealer for a new one as the auto parts stores do not stock plug wires, which is INSANE to me but...
Are you going to just change that one out and get a spare or upgrade to some aftermarket wires?
Are you going to just change that one out and get a spare or upgrade to some aftermarket wires?
$40 for one at the dealer, so I bought one to get back on the road, $320 for a set of plug wires seemed ridiculous. Rock Auto has them for half that. I have a set of 8 in my cart at RA but I am going to do a little shopping for aftermarket before I pull the trigger. I will keep one as a spare since it would have been a much larger fiasco if I was on the wrong side of the mountain with a big load to haul. I also checked the resistance on one of my existing "good" plug wires vs the new one and there is enough difference that I think it warrants a full new set.
I did pull the plug on #2 and it looked fine after 71k miles, gap was still good. I will probably leave them until 100k.
After reading nothing good about aftermarket options I pulled the trigger on the Motorcraft wires from Rock Auto. They are the "D" revision which seems to be the latest. I mentioned the "E" revision to the parts guy at the dealer and he said he had not seen those.
After reading nothing good about aftermarket options I pulled the trigger on the Motorcraft wires from Rock Auto. They are the "D" revision which seems to be the latest. I mentioned the "E" revision to the parts guy at the dealer and he said he had not seen those.
OEM always cost more but for somethings I think its worth the price and it's not like they get changed very often. Plus look at the spares you have and probably never need them now that you'll have them.
I remember when the 88 had the distributor cap and I tried a non OEM one and it did not last and if it rained all bets off. OEM after that and never an issue.
If the GM LS is similar to the 7.3, I would think the aftermarket would be flooded with sets.
It would need to be researched.
I did enough research to see that every aftermarket set tried on the 7.3 failed REALLY early. The 7.3 has a couple of things going on that may be different from an LS. Seems to be a LOT of heat around the manifolds, hence the metal shields on the OEM versions. Then there seems to be an issue with coils and resistance that can ruin coils and wires. Since Ford is on the fourth version, I am hoping they have been suitably changed for the specific application. The Tremor crowd was testing wires starting a couple of years ago. There isn't much price difference either at $20/ea if you order online. factory ones seemed like a no brainer, I should have them early next week. My single replacement from the dealer fixed the issue, code is gone, truck runs great.
Yeah, I’d seen the threads on Tremor forum about 7.3 plug wires and got two “C” versions a while back as spares. Common failure is #2 cylinder but there’s been reports of #3 failing too. Keep one in the truck. Also got a OBDLink MX+ bluetooth adapter and Forscan Lite on my phone (as well as OBDLink app) so I can read codes in case it ever happens on the road somewhere. Cheaper adapters can be had, but that one fits other use cases I have besides just reading DTC’s.
Cylinder 2 on both the trucks I had in for the misfire. To my knowledge there are 3 iterations of plug wires to date with four different part numbers. The last revision they broke the pickup and C&C wires up with different part numbers. No clue if they are even any different as I only have C&C trucks and no pickups with 7.3L
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