I found the same thing in my 2023 manual the night I bought it. Removed the vary speed and change up through the gears early. I’m not sure what high speed is by I haven’t been above 65 yet and mostly 45-60.

 

I never believed the notion that engines come already broken in. A bunch of randomly selected parts thrown together just like the transmission, transfer case and ring and pinion everything has to wear in together. I dont believe my 7.3 was hooked up to something for a length of time to wear-in the parts. I would believe a machine primed the oil in the system before starting the engine. This is mass production in an age of profit over all else. No one is doing us the courtesy of breaking an engine in. The tolerances are a lot tighter and parts can be made en masse much more consistently so I dont believe we need to change the oil 5x by 5k miles but I do think the beginning of the engines life the oil does need to be changed more frequently or at least the filters do.

 

Piston rings "wear in" over time, but "seating is done the first time the engine is loaded up. This pushes the rings up and down on the piston and wears off the sharp edges on the rings so that they can seal properly over time and prevent breakage. This is done via acceleration and deceleration. Not much different than seating brake pads. Today though the "break in" period is more of a "learning" period for the adaptive engine and transmission controls. As always with a new engine, factory or reman, you do want to eliminate hard loads to prevent a ring from breaking as they do take time to wear in, which can be up to 10,000 miles or more deending on use.

Understand the difference between "Break in" and "Wear in". A differential has rough surfaces that break in over time, while an engine has rings that need to seat in, then wear in. The break in on todays engines is done by a machine during the production of the engine. Once the heads are assembled to the block then this procedure can be done at any time of the assembly. The machine hooks to the intake and blows compressed air in while hooked to a dynamometer to apply load as needed to stress the rings and set them to the cylinder walls. It simulates under precise conditions the method of accelerating and decelerating while in a car. This is the break in period, Once in the car its the wear in period. However even though they are seated, they can still be broken if the engine is abused during the first 1000 miles. The wear in period polishes the rings to the cylinder. Think of it as polishing a stone, you first have to scrub the surface to smooth it out, then apply the polish to it.

There is a good reason for any car company to have a break in machine, it prevents warranty work on a damaged engine that wasn't properly broken in. For all we know, the 6.7HO failures could be de to their machine not performing properly to break it in, or they got poor quality rings. It seams that the failures posted were both cylinder damage, which is either rings, or bad pistons, or poor oil distribution.

 

Mine finally came in. Surprisingly great results considering its dealer oil. Since the current oil it T6 I might just go the 10K and see the results. This analysis is also on oil that has 3K of towing the 5th wheel .

 

"Breaking in" new tires... WTF...!!! WOW, I must be missing the boat in so may ways, my whole life is wrong/need to start it all over...

Do NOT use friction modifiers... again... WOW...!!! I seem to remember ALL the manufacturer's explicitly saying, do NOT use synthetic oils 20+ years ago, and today they pretty well ALL come with synthetic oils IN the engine from the factory..!!!... in 1990s I used synthetics and did oil changer at 18,000 Kms instead of the "recommended 6,000KMs"... NOT a single problem for 30+ years and close to 10 vehicles, some of them with over 350,000KMs, chipped, making 30% more HP that from the factory...

 

Another nice and boring (in a good way) UOA, wonder why the flash point dropped so much if it is really only a trace amount of fuel. Again here, the oil sheared down to a 30wt with a kinematic of 10.14cSt puts it below the 40wt but honestly who cares with nice low wear rates...certainly the engine didn't. Thanks for sharing!

 

Since you are towing…I would go into my setup and change my oil lie o meter to severe duty maint schedule.

there is no way, the lie o meter will let you run 7000 to 10000 miles on a severe duty schedule. Towing, lots of idle time, etc, is severe duty.

i am surprised the fuel dilution rate is only being indicated at less than .5%, that in itself would put this oil sample result into question in my mind.

it’s like the DNA test, folks are finding that sending DNA to different processors, significantly changes the reports.

 

As a reference for when you get your next analysis, this is my 3rd oil change. I changed the oil at 500 miles, 5500, and 13,000. Hopefully your next one will show much lower numbers.

 

Maybe it is 30wt because the oil is 10W30 Motorcraft? The current fill is T6 5w40. If it comes back on the next one as 30wt, then I can be concerned a bit.

 

Ha, that could be it. I read just a bit too fast.

 

did you ever do a follow up analysis??? I have similarly high numbers my first one out !

 

Just curious how many miles are on your truck? If Iron is under 100ppm and other wear metals are under 40-60ppm in a new engine, your fine IMHO.

 

here is the Analysis

This was at 8k with about 7200 on the oil.

 

For a pretty much brand new truck this looks great. You have single digit wear for most of them and pretty low iron given how new the engine is. Viscosity is within grade, no material fuel present, good flashpoint, low insolubles. Can't ask for much more IMHO. I think it looks totally fine.

 

thank you sir! I’m currently running valvoline premium blue, I have about 4k on that. Gonna run it out to maybe 6k then change and see what the numbers say on that. If it looks better than the Rotella T6 , I’ll probably then make the Valvoline my permanent oil.