I don’t follow Ford on Twitter. They make a great product and have defects like every other manufacturer. Supply issues have caused delays in getting some repairs done. It will all get fixed. Some want to act like the country, and many places worldwide, didn’t get shut down. Well crap, now I know the mods will be gunning for me now and talk about how the thread is off track.

What problems are you having with your Ford?

 

I have a buddy that is a lineman. His stories about high mileage (200K+) power strokes idling all day at a job site is what got me to purchase mine. And you know a company truck is not getting special treatment. Probably when the OLM says so if the driver remembers to notify someone or take it in for service.

 

Interesting.
My wife's jeep GC came with a 6 year or 160,000 km warranty at no extra charge. I was also offered an extended warranty that I could buy, but said no.

By the way her Jeep has been very reliable.
I sure wish that all my fords would be as reliable as her jeep has been.
It also tows beautifully. We hook our boat onto it frequently, and it drives along great with 6500 lbs of boat and trailer back there.

All brands have issues, including the Japanese brands.
My best friend has a toyota rav4 which has been a steaming pile of .....
She actually has a jeep on order, and when it arrives is trading in her toyota on it so she isn't at the shop so much, or stranded somewhere.

Bashing a brand without any real experience with that brand makes me laugh.
I've owned a ridiculous amount of fords, chevs, dodge/rams, etc.
Ford is average reliability, not great, not terrible.
I've owned 2 jeeps, and now the wife has her jeep, and all 3 have been better than average for reliability, and that is despite my abusing my wrangler rubicon terribly.
That poor jeep should have broken in half, and I wouldn't have blamed it if it did.
I dare anyone to give me there non jeep brand of vehicle for even just a month, and give me permission to drive it like I drove that poor rubicon for 3 years.

 

Who bashed a brand? I was looking into a Jeep Grand Cherokee because I wanted to the get the wife one. My sister is on her 3rd Jeep. Her twin is on her first and has 5 trouble free years out of it. My parents drive Chryslers and have since 2011, due to Ford getting rid of the minivan in 2007/2008.

I didn’t say you couldn’t get a warranty on one. I’m glad the dealership “included” one. I can buy a warranty on my 2004 6.0, but it’s not a warranty directly from Ford. When I looked at a genuine Chrysler/Jeep warranty in 2010 (we bought a 2011 Ford Edge instead) it would only go up to 50,000 miles. I was buying used and it already had 40k on it. Then bought a 2012 Fusion with 64k miles on it and got the warranty extended to 100k. Couldn’t do that on the Jeep with a factory warranty at the time. Maybe it has changed. That’s all I said.

Glad you are happy with your Jeeps. I am just as happy with my Fords. Happy travels.

 

Thats because there no longer is a need for a break in regime. Really the only thing that needs a break in is the ring gear. Gone are the days of special break in oil, and transmissions use the same fluid for 150K miles. The actual "break in" period is more like a "learning" period where the computer adjusts to the drivers inputs. The only engines today that require a break in period are remanufactured ones because the parts need time to wear in. With factory built engines, the tolerances are very precise and parts fits very good and require very little time to meld.

Unless a Remanufactured engine is completely done by computers, there will be tolerance differences between the cylinders. the machining of the crank could be a little off so the bearings need time to wear in, so doing a 500 mile oil change is a must on them. Not needed with a factory built engine though.

Really the only reason to change it early is to give that feel good thing, because it doesn't matter to the engine.

 

Thank you for your answer.

 

If engines don't have a break-in period anymore then why do the first couple oil analysis ALWAYS show wear-in materials?

 

Don't we have two oil analysis's (if that's a word ) right in this thread, that literally say the opposite (in their comments sections)?
I agree that with tighter tolerances overall, "break in" should be much less than days gone by, but zero break in does not seem to be the case.

 

Maybe there should be two separate terms - break in and wear in? The consensus is that modern factory engines do not require a break in period. Break in meaning a special procedure that must be followed to prevent possible damage or poor performance long term. But there does appear to be additional wear in occurring in the first 10k miles or so that reduces to lower steady state wear values based on most oil analyses.

 

Bingo! What we see in this thread is wear in. All mechanical devices require a wear in period. When an engine is remanufactured, it requires a break in. That is done after installing in the vehicle and during the first drive. It is to seat the rings properly, which also allows a LOT of bypass gasses to get into the oil. This is why it requires an oil change at 500 miles.

A factory built engine is hooked up to an oiling system and run on a machine that does the break in of ring seating without using any combustion products. Once it is fully assembled, it is already broken in. The next couple oil changes will show wear metals as the rings fully seat on the cylinder walls, but for the most part the rings are sealed against excess fuel and combustion components before then engine receives it's first drop of gas or diesel. Thats what break in oil changes are not required on factory engines.

The 1000 mile before towing period is to wear in the ring and pinion to the every day loading of the truck. You don't want to subject the R&P to excess loads right away since that can lead to excess wear that can cause noise and slop.

 

Also, while we are on the topic of break in, when I read the Ford owner’s manual, it specifically said your new driveline needs a break in period. Look up the definition of driveline. Driveline excludes the engine and transmission. As has been said, the only thing really needing a break in is the rear differential and the brakes. You can bed the brakes in a session. My understanding of differential break in is that the initial preload between the ring and pinion creates a lot of friction. The friction creates heat, which can burn up the differential fluid and then the differential itself once the fluid no longer lubricates correctly. This is why Ford uses a full synthetic in the rear differential - high temperatures, especially during break in. This is also why they suggest limited highway driving during break in. Most differential manufactures say it’s broke in after 250 miles. Ford’s 1,000 mile break in is probably a lot of CYA.

 

Go to the "Breaking-in" section, pretty sure you will find reference to more than just driveline. I know mine says not to labor the engine, and to change up through the gears early.

 

This is from the 2023 Super Duty OM.

 

It looks Ike they condensed the breaking-in wording down to that starting 2022MY. Prior to that it was as seen below-

 

Interesting. They do mention piston ring seating.