Rust Repair
Any body use lead much ???
All Pros & Cons needed
I plan & will be safe when working with the lead...........

For 1 you would have to use more heat to get it to flow and that can / will warp metal.
You need to remove the sealer at the roof to see what you got.
If no holes then treat the rust with converter / killer. I use acid to kill rust.
Then reseal and paint as needed.
You will need to do the same with the bed seams.
Grind, remove as much of the rust the best you can.
Treat rust like above with acid as it will "leak in" to the seam.
I think the factory used seam sealer on this too.
Dave ----

Leading has always intrigued me , and I found an ole body mans lead tools for sale is another reason. I also bought an amazing nos little torch I am eager to use . I plan to take a gas welding course and do some brazing & welding patch panels . I can stick weld......
but gas intrigues me also........got some good body shop books........I cleaned rust with cleaning vinegar ( acid ) & red scotch pads , then 1 heavy coat of rust converter paint , then red tractor paint . Now I will add seam sealer as you suggested , well after I do some metal patching .

The roof I will be much more careful with . I have seen major damage to other trucks that have hidden leakage at the drip rails........
You may already have sealer, or a good source, but after checking around, I found seam sealer at a low cost and free shipping since I'm an Amazon Prime member, and it worked great. The resto sites wanted $30+ when shipping cost was included.
Also, I had never worked with seam sealer before, so I discovered how unforgiving it is. I thought I would have time to wipe up some messy spots, and make it look good, but no. After much fingerpainting I found that it dried quickly and very hard. I had to sand the areas down to remove it. Next time I'll be more precise in the application of it.












