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Sure, you could start with a new cab, but I think part of the fun is learning how to replace that rusty metal. If you see a crew cab for $1500 I'll drive out tonight to get it. I have a '64 F250 (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...me-swap-2.html) , cab was in similar rust condition. When I removed it and started to look it over, I had a moment of panic because I thought I was in over my head. I totally was, but just went at it one piece at a time. The most helpful tools for me were a spot weld bit ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087FS9PR8...roduct_details ) and wire wheel. I started at the bottom and worked my way up, starting with the floor pans. Looks like a lot of that inner rocker is useable, so maybe floor pans, then cab mounts? You can address the rusty areas on the rockers with the floors off, then get the floors back on. Then maybe the firewall, and roof? LMC makes a roof side patch panel for a crew cab, so you could maybe treat the rust behind it? 77&79 sent me a cool schematic showing how the drip rail is attached to the roof. I'm excited for your journey. I just started a new one too, but not as cool as yours.
Thanks for the link to your build. I actually have the same spot weld cutter, haven't used it yet so I hope it works well.
And for that roof seam, maybe this will help? I think a regular cab roof, is like a crew cab roof for the most part. Of course not in that mystery middle section of the CC where it is actually, as I understand it, is leaded in.
Didn't notice it was a crew cab, but it's still not worth fixing. you can buy a solid 2wd crew cab for 5k or so I see them all the time, there's one in Bosie last time I looked that drives . buy one and use the cab and other parts on your 4x4.
If you're in CA that pickup came from somewhere else that's for sure.
Didn't notice it was a crew cab, but it's still not worth fixing. you can buy a solid 2wd crew cab for 5k or so I see them all the time, there's one in Bosie last time I looked that drives . buy one and use the cab and other parts on your 4x4.
If you're in CA that pickup came from somewhere else that's for sure.
I'll have to start looking in the Boise area, there's none any where near me for even close to that. My truck is a Washington state truck, I flew up and drove it home. But I disagree with you, I think its definitely worth fixing. Even if I do find an extra cab in good shape, I think it's still salvageable and still worth the time to fix it.
If it's worth it to you that's what matters, I'd run away screaming like my teeth were on fire. the rust you see is just where it starts. watch search tempest in the PNW, facebook seems to have more than craigslist anymore in it searched both. crew cabs are not rare here and you will find decent 2wd's pretty cheap now and then, they're worth whatever the parts are worth.
If it's worth it to you that's what matters, I'd run away screaming like my teeth were on fire. the rust you see is just where it starts. watch search tempest in the PNW, facebook seems to have more than craigslist anymore in it searched both. crew cabs are not rare here and you will find decent 2wd's pretty cheap now and then, they're worth whatever the parts are worth.
OK, I'll give it a try and see what I can find. I haven't had any time to work on it since the kids got out for the summer anyways.
I'll watch and post them here next time I see one. I watch all the time it's amazing what pops up. there was a guy with 3 not too long ago but I can't remember where.
Brace the cab with some tubing and then strip it and cut all the rust out to find out how bad it is before making any decisions. I realize crewcabs are harder to find, but you need to see what you're actually dealing with, I've seen better looking trucks turn to Swiss cheese once you started stripping the paint. I can tell you the rust under the seats is gonna be alot worse than it looks and it's probably compromised the support under it. If you aren't going for an original resto, all of the floor/support structure can just be cut out then a custom floor can fabbed with some thin wall sq tube and a sheet of 16ga. fairly easily
For many of us it's the journey not the destination but that is certainly not a one-size-fits-all attitude. The idea that things have to yield a return on investment (ROI) that is greater than zero is perfectly legitimate. Different strokes for different folks.
There is even a middle ground here. For example I would not hesitate to outsource those parts of a project that are well beyond my current or probable future capability. Patch panels that are well formed certainly but there are are some things that are not commercially available right now. For those things consider a fabricator who has the tools and expertise to make a piece that you need. Just take a sample to them and say, "I want a piece just like this only 15" long instead of this 3" sample.
Where there is a will there is a way. We are all path finders of one sort or another.
I'll watch and post them here next time I see one. I watch all the time it's amazing what pops up. there was a guy with 3 not too long ago but I can't remember where.
That would be great, I've been looking and the few that I have seen are well out of the price range of even considering.
Brace the cab with some tubing and then strip it and cut all the rust out to find out how bad it is before making any decisions. I realize crewcabs are harder to find, but you need to see what you're actually dealing with, I've seen better looking trucks turn to Swiss cheese once you started stripping the paint. I can tell you the rust under the seats is gonna be alot worse than it looks and it's probably compromised the support under it. If you aren't going for an original resto, all of the floor/support structure can just be cut out then a custom floor can fabbed with some thin wall sq tube and a sheet of 16ga. fairly easily
Yea I agree. I really need to get into it and see what exactly I've got going on in there to make any real decisions. No I'm not going for original resto on this. I'm planning to do a 4x4 swap and diesel swap with it.
I thought my truck was bad... Here is my two cents.
The condition of the cab means the finished product will not be to spec original. If you buy new rocker panels, beware. I got two sets of outer rockers and both of them came up short by a significant margin. Enough where the outer rocker to corners HAD to be but welded rather than the factory lap weld. If you have a big bender, I would recommend that you buy the front inner rockers and bend the outer ones. For the front door's front rocker panel corners (a fat and stubby L shape), yet again there are different ones on the market. All for the same truck, all different. Check and double check your dimensions. Because I knew my truck was not going to be %100 original, I salvaged the little bit of good outer steel from the not original doors and used that to patch the small areas in the upper floor pan. I recommend that you start with the rockers, floor, then the issues on the outside of the truck. From the pictures provided, I highly suggest that you thoroughly scan the linear support rails that hold your cab together underneath. I would not be surprised that yours is gone equally as mine was. Aftermarket sheet metal is a thinner gauge than oem. Oem metal is a beooooch to weld. No matter the metal prep or welder, that stuff will disintegrate faster than Styrofoam in a Canadian wild fire. GLHF =)
If anyone has any measurements handy for their cab I'd like to compare my numbers to yours.
I took 5 sets of measurements, 3 in the front and 2 in the rear.
1) Just above the trans tunnel, inside measurement, 64 and 7/16 inches
2) Right in the middle of the indentation one each side of the cab, inside measurement, 64 and 1/4 inches
3) Up at the top of the windshield right where the posts start to bend, inside measurement, 63 5/8 inches
4) Post behind driver seat, as close to the floor as I could get, 65 and 5/16 inches
5) Top part of the cab 56 and 3/4 inches
I took some pictures to help you guys visualize where i took my measurements, feel free to let me know where else I should be pulling measurements from too.
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