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Looking for a good option for a bucket or bench seat. I don’t want to use a later model seat, head rests nothing like that. I saw this at lmc the other day hoping someone might have some other ideas. Craig
I do have an original bench seat in the truck now. I am just trying to make the best decision for the truck and the look of the truck. I would guess the existing seat would cost around $1000-$1500 to get in order.
Thanks,
Craig
BTW.... thank you everyone for your ideas it has helped me a ton of make the right decision.....
I recently went through this same situation. Upholster wanted $2200 to redo my factory seat with foam and recover and I bought a whole new Snowden seat for less money. I was also able to get $300 for my stock seat.
Check out Fat Fender Garage, they make a bracket for late model Mustang seats to bolt in.
Craigslist $40 2001 Super Duty Crew Car REAR seat.
I reused the OEM 79 sliders. The seat ended up being to short/low or me to get a good clutch angle. So I made riser "tubes" to mount he OEM sliders on, NO extra holes in the cab floor. I just used longer bolts
I bought two bucket seats from a yard, with tracks on them, out of a recently wrecked Mercury Grand Marquis, nice leather then, 50/50 with folding center arm rests ... then I cut the very lowest portion of the tracks off and welded some bar to them, then I had seats that would even sit well on a floor. I then built a net work in the truck that bolted to my floor, used some spacers, then bolted my seats to that. Gave the stock bench away. Comfortable. I covered the leather later with seat covers that fit seats in that Mercury, I have better ones I need to put in place now. I've grown accustomed to the head rests, but it would be really easy to just not reinstall them. I used seats from a '86, but our '01 has almost the same seat. My last few Crown Vics had nice seats, but not the center two arm rests.
Blocks are just 1'1/2" thick. Bolt holes (8) are easy places to add spacers if needed.
I had the seats out last year, was gonna recover then, but they will be easier to do with a truck holding them in place.
In place, about 4" between them. These were cheaper covers bought from JCW in the '90s, new ones are much better.
Leather gave up in time.
Now you have me thinking about those head rests too.
But they likely would be handy if ever hit from the rear.I'll keep them.
Was to clean up, and repaint this behind seat storage box that went in with the seat swap so long ago.
I went with TMI. Wanted to add headrests after my sister got rear ended and messed up her neck pretty bad by not using them. Pricey but pretty nice. Wish they sat a little lower but I’m also ~6’2”. I think they would look good without the headrests, and it would make them a bit cheaper.
X2 on awesome looking seats, but what is up with that giant long seat adjustment handle sticking way out there? Looks like a leg catcher when getting out on the dvr side. Just saying.
X2 on awesome looking seats, but what is up with that giant long seat adjustment handle sticking way out there? Looks like a leg catcher when getting out on the dvr side. Just saying.
Yeah, I hate they way those look, too. They are definitely out of the way when getting in/out, but an eyesore for sure. I've got a plan to shorten them but haven't gotten around to taking them out and getting them... handled
I can see where they definialtiy need to be shortened, but for that kind of $, I figured they would of not come that way. Unless you have to rotate the handle a long way to get them to unlock to slide. Let us know what you do and how you work that mod out.
I can see where they definialtiy need to be shortened, but for that kind of $, I figured they would of not come that way. Unless you have to rotate the handle a long way to get them to unlock to slide. Let us know what you do and how you work that mod out.
I agree. The sliders and seat frames are their universal parts, so they should be able to adjust either the mounting tabs on the bottom of the seats, or the studs on the slider assemblies. The slider handle does have to be rotated about 90* for the slider locks to fully disengage.
I wound up taking the seats off the frame and figured out that the front seat frame holes could be slotted and the seats would bolt directly to the frames. This moved the seats down and back about 1". The backrest position is the same in relation to the seat bottom, but now I'm sitting where I want to be to accommodate my lanky-self. Good thing I'm the only one that drives my truck.
I will probably still modify the sliders. The handle bar has a tab in the midpoint of the slider where the link bar attaches to activate the other side of the slider assembly. I'll probably cut the bar there and take a couple inches out, as the tab gives me more material to weld things back together. And it's out of site being totally under the seat, so nobody will see my booger-welds.
All said, I would still probably get the TMI seats. I like bolstered seats, and these are great because the bolsters are all high density foam so they still squish enough for scooting your rear over them as well as accommodating those extra helpings of banana pudding. They hug you nicely, making turns a lot more stable feeling. Since the truck is lowered, it handles better than stock but it still has manual steering and the bolsters give you more leverage to turn the wheel. The stitching is nice and they really aren't a lot more expensive than other aftermarket seats. I added the center console/buddy seat setup to the order, which added a lot more to the cost along with the headrests but means everything matches nicely. Left the slider on the console since the handle isn't ridiculous and I can stash things under that.
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I'll keep them.
