Hey everyone! I have a 1994 F-150 5.0 that I recently had some issues with during the KOEO test that others on this site helped me to correct. I'm getting an all clear 111 code during the KOEO test. However, I'm having issues with it when it starts. It idles rough, smells of exhaust, and when driving it will randomly get bogged down and I have to punch the gas. It will rev through the bog and take off again. When it is doing this the CEL comes on, so I'm sure it is throwing a code. When I try to run the KOER test I get the initial 4 blinks of the CEL, and the Innova Code reader shows CYL 8. It also has the upside down arrow indicating that it has connected to the computer. From there I turn the steering wheel, hit the brakes, and turn OD on and off. Then nothing else happens and I never get a code or CEL flash to punch the throttle. I've found on other forums that this could be caused by too long of a delay from the computer, and the reader shuts down. However, I've tried running the test with a paperclip, as well as a piece of 12 gauge copper wire (regular ROMEX) with the same results. I've also read that there may be an issue with the ground, so I've connected a piece of 12 gauge copper wire from the negative battery terminal to the single pin connector, and tried running the test with AND without the reader. All of these give the initial 4 blinks, and then will not proceed. I've let it run for up to 5 minutes will all of these tests. Sometimes the truck dies before I wait that long though. I have not tried to test it using a voltmeter (the CEL light is obviously working, and I'm sure it would light up if there was voltage on the line). It was mentioned to me in the other thread I started that it could be the ECU not reacting to the test. Also, I've researched the symptoms and it sounds like the issues I'm having could be the EGR valve which is a common issue with this truck. I'm really trying to learn how to work on this truck, and not just throw parts at it. So my questions are:

• Could the ECM be causing all of my problems, or just the testing issues?
• How do I go about testing the ECM (points, voltage, resitance, etc.)?
• Should I clean the EGR valve first before digging in to the ECM and save myself the hassle?

Logic tells me that the ECM is probably the first step. The reman'ed ECMs start about $200. I am by no means a mechanic, but I have typical tools, and a willingness to learn (plus I'm a cheap ***! ) , so I'm just looking for a direction. Any help will be appreciated!

 

I'm not a pro mechanic by any means but i've been in the same boat. I have a 94 F150 as well and have been having major computer issues. Sometimes the truck runs like it just came off the factory line and other times acts like it's about to fall apart. Since i've had it i've always noticed a miss but recently my torque converter would randomly disengage and the truck would nearly die at idle at random times. Every time i had major issues with the truck the engine light never came on once. Other day i just pulled out the computer to find out i have a bad capacitor on the motherboard. I'm in the process of fixing it but haven't gotten very far as i'm waiting for parts. Point is don't overlook the ECM because it's actually fairly common for these computers to be the root of the problem. If i were you i'd pull out the ECM and take a look at the motherboard for corrosion or burns on the motherboard. To take the ECM out take the driver side inner fender well loose half away around ( all the way if you wish ) and on the fire wall there is a 10mm bolt in the middle of the ECM plug you have to take out along with 2 other 10mm bolts that holds the ecm in the fire wall. It might be a pain to get out but best to take a pry bar and pry down on the inner fender well and the computer should just slide out. Remember to also check the plug to make sure nothing has melted or burned. Hope all works out for you and good luck!

 

Copy all. I'll start with pulling the ECM to look at it. Thanks for the input!

How can you tell that your torque converter is disengaging? My symptoms seem to be fairly consistent in the way that they present themselves. I can't say that the timing of when they happen is 100% consistent, but it seems fairly close. Did you find that the capacitor was bad, and order that part, or just order a new ECM?

 

Happy to help out! I know this **** can be a headache at times to say the least. I recently put a tach in my truck and when driving ( highway speeds mostly ) it'd be like the truck just put itself in nuetral and then jump right back into drive causing the truck to jerk. When i lost the torque converter anywhere from 5 to 10 seconds if you watched the tach the rpms would go up and go back down if you let off the throttle and then when the torque converter would come back the rpms shot back to whatever the normal rpms were at that speed in that gear. Although i never have confirmed it's the torque converter all the signs say it is. The reason i suspected the ECM is because some days it would drive like brand new and other days like it's a 300k mile truck. From my experience if the issue will sometimes go away and then randomly come back it's usually something electrical failing. When i pulled out the computer and found the bad capacitor i was almost certain that was causing all the issues. I am replacing the capacitor ( there is 3 and cost under a dollar to replace of all them ) just because i'm in a pinch with time and money but eventually going to buy a new ECM. I found a new ECM for i think little over 200 bucks but finding it was a nightmare. So far i've only found 2 used in the entire country and nothing online until i found someone who rebuilds and sells new ECMs in Colorado. You can repair the ECM but if something burned on the motherboard you have to get a new ECM. If caught in the early stages you can usually save the ECM but in some cases might be just worth buying a new one all together depending on the situation. If it ends up being a ECM issue and you are interested in rebuilding it i can see what company that was called and see if they have a phone number. How i confirmed ECM failure is sometimes the ECM would never want to communicate with my scanner and the fuel pump would never kick on and sure enough if you gave it a few seconds it finally came back. From my research i found that those symptoms were signs of ECM failure. Out of pure luck i found someone online with the exact same issues i had and turns out it was the same capacitor that was bad and it fixed his problem. If you have any other questions please feel free to reach back out to me and i'll see if i can answer them. Once again i'm more of a self taught guy but i've done my research with the OBS and know all the common issues they bring with them.

 

Not familiar with the Innova scanner
But
When prompted to do the goose test, you do that first
A brief WOT and that is followed by the BOO switch activation and the trans OD cancel if equipped or the clutch depress.
The PSPS after that gets activated when you yank the wheel hard or hit the steering stop
Then you wait for the code output
There are not two prompts on the Ford Star testers
You get one prompt and then you activate all of the listed inputs
I can post the Ford procedure if you need

 

This is the INNOVA manual. Page 32 is the procedure to start and run the KOER test. Any codes in KOEO test need to be repaired before running KOER.

https://static.summitracing.com/glob...s/equ-3145.pdf