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I went to check the tire installers torque on the OE lug nuts and a 21mm socket would not fit though a kinda sloppy 22mm would work. Did a search here for a good replacement and found there is a real dearth of threads but did find that either McGard or Gorilla were about the best. McGard's have gotten too dear in price (and my experience with them isn't great) but found some Gorillas on eBay for a reasonable price. Part number for '15-'20 F150s is 61148FS in the 14x1.5 size.
On to the torque - found that the lug nuts from the tire installer might have been 60 lb ft vs 150 OE spec. My old HF impact didn't even hammer when it will at anything above ~75 lb ft. One more lesson relearned - don't trust tire sellers to tighten lugs to spec
I've left with several less than hand tight but mostly they are way over torque and not evenly done.
Yep, when I torque them myself, I back them off and retorque. Then I check them again when I get home or the next day. Improperly torqued lug nuts can also cause the brake rotors to warp, damage to wheels, or wheels studs to break.
Everyone should have a torque wrench at home and know how to use it. Only use 6 point deep sockets on lug nuts. A lot of damage is done with 12 point sockets and/or shallow sockets. Take the lug wrench out of your truck and replace it with a long handle 1/2" flex head ratchet and a 6 point deep socket. The OEM lug wrench will do more harm than good.
My Gorilla lug nuts rusted after one New England winter. I'm thinking about going back to OEM. They lasted 7 yrs without rusting and only a couple got damaged when tires were installed by a hack.
Yep, when I torque them myself, I back them off and retorque. Then I check them again when I get home or the next day. Improperly torqued lug nuts can also cause the brake rotors to warp, damage to wheels, or wheels studs to break.
Everyone should have a torque wrench at home and know how to use it. Only use 6 point deep sockets on lug nuts. A lot of damage is done with 12 point sockets and/or shallow sockets. Take the lug wrench out of your truck and replace it with a long handle 1/2" flex head ratchet and a 6 point deep socket. The OEM lug wrench will do more harm than good.
Good advice. I've carried a 20" breaker bar, 2' extension and a brand new 13/16 or whatever socket size I needed for whatever truck I had at the time for years. Not about to 'throw' my $300 torque wrench in there though - I can wait until I get home.
Made me recall my 1979 F350SC Camper Special with 5/8" lugs that needed a,IIRC, 1-1/8" socket for the nuts and it also had two wheels with LH thread lugs but all only 150lb ft torque
For any lug nut work I'm temporarily unable to do using an impact tool with torque stick I use a 3/4" drive ratchet, about 30" long. With a 3" extension and 7/8" 6 point deep well impact socket the 3/4" drive accessories work fine. The tools stow nicely under a seat etc.
I do cheat a bit and also carry a Milwaukee M18 1/2" drive cordless impact and a Humvee scissor jack with a load limit of 6 tons so roadside tire changes are as safe and easy as one can make them. As a preventative step I lightly coat each wheel stud with 3-in-1 oil or "light machine oil" before re-installing any removed lug nut--along with full coverage wheel covers my studs appear quite healthy.
I also have a proper torque wrench but it doesn't travel on or in the truck.
[QUOTE=JWA;20917447 As a preventative step I lightly coat each wheel stud with 3-in-1 oil or "light machine oil" before re-installing any removed lug nut--along with full coverage wheel covers my studs appear quite healthy.
I.[/QUOTE]
That oil reduces torque by some amount. You might want to look through the net to see how much but it might be as much as 30-40 percent depending on oil "weight"
Everyone should have a torque wrench at home and know how to use it. Only use 6 point deep sockets on lug nuts. A lot of damage is done with 12 point sockets and/or shallow sockets. Take the lug wrench out of your truck and replace it with a long handle 1/2" flex head ratchet and a 6 point deep socket. The OEM lug wrench will do more harm than good.
That is excellent advice. The torque required on lug nuts is high enough that a 12-point socket is very likely going to damage the lug nut.
Don't our trucks use a 2-piece lugnut from the factory?
Definitely good advice about torquing the wheels properly. I have a "beefy boy" breaker bar in my Bullnose truck. Looks like I might have to buy another for my F150 along with some torque sticks. Anyone have any they can recommend?
Yep, two piece. A thin stainless steel cover over a zinc plated steel lug nut. The stainless skin deforms easily if you don’t use the exact right size of socket. Even if you take good care, they deform after removing and replacing a few times. A 12 point socket will ruin them, especially if used on an impact.
Don't our trucks use a 2-piece lugnut from the factory?
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If you are thinking of the lug nut with the integrated and loose washer, no. Those nuts are used on the F250 and up SRW trucks. The F150 (and other light duty Fords) uses a one piece with a stainless cover that in many cases expands grom weathering - and why I had to replace the lugs on my F150 and the '17 Escape last year
All,
I changed all my swollen F150 lug nuts to Gorilla brand.
I found it difficult to get the old lug nut out of the deep well socket, and discovered using a pickle fork (old front end tool) between the offending lug and the socket, and using a swinging press (hammer) to seperate the two.
Hope this helps somebody, it saved me a lot of grief.
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