Help, just did headstuds, got the cab back down and everything wired no problem, no crank no start issue. Has good power going through batterys, ground, to block and frame, good power to starter. Turn key to start, fuel pump turns on, fuel reaches filter, try to crank. Nothing. Go to yellow and blue wire to test starter, truck trys to crank so starters gotta be good? Starter relay is good, ficm gets 48v?

 

How did you test the relay?
Contact 30 of this relay have power (at all times)?
Contact 85 of this relay have power when key is moved to "start"?
Fuse 31 and 113 good (in Central Junction Box)?
Back up lights come on in reverse?

 

You state there is no crank, but later state it tries to crank? Which is it? Does the starter spin or not?

 

All fuses are good, I used meter to check power to each pin, you can physically feel and hear relay click when you try to turn key, reverse lights don't come on though when put in r, and it doesn't crank by key, you can only get it to start trying to crank by jumping yellow and blue wire to +battery post

 

Did you clear out the cylinders of all fluids prior to trying to crank it over?

-jokester

 

Cylinders were cleared out and clean before

 

I would bar the engine over by hand to see if you feel any oddities or restrictions.

How old are your batteries and what are your voltages? Define "truck tries to crank" when using the small excite wire to battery + post.

-jokester

 

The batterys are brand new I just bought them for the truck. I'm getting 12vs on em, and I tried barring and, rolled in neutral and spun, nothing really out of ordinary that I could feel, will try and so it again tonight and see if I feel anything

 

You keep saying "trying to crank", but it either cranks or it doesn't. Cranking doesn't mean starting, it is only referring to the engine rotation from the starter. From what you described when using the "jumper to the passenger battery terminal", you imply that you get proper engine rotation.

That said, there are a few things that need to be addressed.
1. A relay that clicks doesn't necessarily mean that it is working.
2. You said you used a meter to check power at each pin, but you weren't clear if that was only for the fuses, or for the two specific starter relay contacts I mentioned, or for both.
3. If the reverse lights don't come on (key must be in the "on" position) when the gear is placed in reverse, then you MIGHT have a problem with the transmission range sensor (the PCM isn't going to actuate the starter relay if it doesn't know what gear it is in).
4. If the starter relay (#307) does actually work, and you get power transferred from contact 30 to contact 87, then you MUST have a problem with the wiring from the starter relay to the starter solenoid connector at the vacuum pump. The one that is on the Yellow wire with the Light Blue stripe (the one that you "jumper to the battery terminal" to get the engine to crank).

 

Will upload pic or video of crank

 

12 volts on a battery means that it is dead btw.
12.6-12.7 volts is what they need to be at (or higher if they are AGM). Tenths of volts matter greatly.