Hello all,
I bought a 2005 F150 with the 5.4 engine. Took it in to get a smog test and it failed due to a cam position sensor, and coil packs "C" and "D". I have since watched a video on how to install the cam position sensor, And it looks easy enough that I can try to do that myself. I used to be a mechanic in the mid 80's but am disabled now, and working on vehicles is not as easy as it used to be. It doesn't help either that vehicles are a lot more complicated now than they were 50 years. LOL. Anyway, there are 8 coil packs, which ones are "C" and "D"? Back in the day Ford numbered their engines 1234 on one bank and 5678 on the other. When did they switch to letters?

Jim

 

a=1, b=2, etc.

 

Thank you. So that tells me the last two on the passenger side are the ones to replace. I'll have to see if that is something I can do since the engine is pushed so far back to the firewall.

Jim

 

Who did you buy it from? Seller is supposed to smog it--if it's a licensed dealer you could press the issue.

 

That is true. However, I purchased it from a private party on Craigslist. And technically he was supposed to smog it before the sale. I have never heard of anyone selling a car on CL who will smog it first*. The price was ridiculously low $1,800 for a 2005 F150. He even took $300 off because it had past due tags. Three years of past due tags to be exact. DMV originally wanted $1,931 to get it registered and titled in my name. I told the clerk I am on disability I cannot afford that. She asked me if I had a disabled person parking placard. I told her yes. She said if I apply for disabled plates she can remove the weight fees, and the penalties for those fees. So, I did. New total was $988. With the help of the Central California Veterans organization, who gave me a check made out to the DMV for $500, and a lot of praying on my part, I was able to get that paid. Now, I am in the process of getting it to pass smog. However, even after I replace the items needed to do that, I will still need to save my money as it seems to have that dreaded "broken cam tensioner" problem. It randomly starts clattering like a diesel engine, and the motor loses almost all its power. Then it fixes itself and it is good for another few miles.


Body is in good shape. No rust, only small dents. And the plastic lip under front bumper is missing. Only bad spot is right by the tail light where the clear coat is missing.

I use a mobility scooter, to get around mostly, however, that left me stranded yesterday with a blown right rear tire (which is amazing since these tires don't have air, they are "supposed" to be foam filled.) So it looks like I will be driving the truck to the DMV to get that 30-day temp permit on Monday. Once it passes smog, then I can just drive it very little until I get the timing chain/tensioner issue fixed. I am praying the VA can get a wheel to me soon so I can resume using my mobility scooter for most of my trips.

Jim

 

Ouch!

I would either not drive this truck until you can afford an engine or sell it now and get one with a 4.6 under the hood.

That oil pump is getting clogged with timing chain guide so badly that the phasers aren’t getting their needed 25 PSI. That no doubt had been going on for a long enough time that I would never trust just a timing job on this engine.

Seriously, price a remanned engine and see if you can take that hit.

 

I am living on SSDI and a 10% service disability from the Air Force. A remanufactured engine is way out of my ability.

Jim

 

I'm sure you know this stuff since you're in California, the seller is required to smog the vehicle before selling unless there is an agreement between you and the seller that you're buying a vehicle that is going to fail the smog test. A smog cert is good for 90 days when selling. If you were not aware of the potential smog failure, you got taken.

I always tell family and/or friends when you go to buy a vehicle from a private party (1996 and newer OBDII), take a code reader/scanner with you. Tell the seller you want to check for codes. Red flags are seller saying NO to you plugging into the car and/or OBDII monitors not set indicating seller reset to make codes "temporarily" disappear.

Contact the B.A.R. for possible financial assistance.
https://www.bar.ca.gov/consumer/cons...k%20inspection.

Good luck, I hope it works out, the truck looks nice!

 

I'll check with the B.A.R. Thanks for the info. As for buying the truck I am my own worst enemy when it comes to buying vehicles. I should have made the seller smog it. If he refused that would be a good sign not to buy it. However, I let my emotions get the best of me.

Jim

 

This is really bad for you, and we'd all like to help. My first thought is to look into suing the seller to get your money back. If you know a lawyer you could ask them about this; or phone a lawyer's office and see if you can get a free consultation. Querying Google or asking Bing might also be helpful.

In any event I don't think you should spend any money on it because it sounds like you'll end up spending thousands of dollars. If it runs, as a second alternative, either sell it "as is" or drive it till it stops.

Wish I could offer you better ideas. Good luck.

 

The truck was sold as is, so I doubt I can sue him. However, I am sure I can find an attorney who gives free initial advice. Thanks for the info.

Jim